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If you need a Throttle Body Position Sensor you can get one at your local parts store (AdvanceAuto, AutoZone, PepBoys< NAPA, ORiely, Fleebay, etc for about $60 - $80,
If you need a TAC (Throttle Actuator Control) it is not so easy. Took me weeks to find one used. I have a spare one as the problem turned out not to be the TAC but the Ignition Switch which caused the car to NOT START. The TB Position Sensor is bolted onto the throttle body and is readily accessible. The TAC is located behind the passenger wheel well and is bolted onto the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). You can get to it by jacking up the right front frame, removing the right front wheel, then removing about 6 screws which are on the access panel portion of the wheel well. The TAC is bolted onto the PCM with I believe 3 bolts or screws. It has 2 plugs, one to the accelerator pedal and one to the TB position sensor and the engine.
Hope this helps you. You didm't say why you need the part. Is the car not starting or running rough?
sorry for not saying, the cars pedal intermittently does not want to rev the rpms up, best way i know how to describe it. car starts and runs fine, sometimes i try to push the pedal down and it doesnt want to rev, itll throw an engine light, and the traction and active handling lights pop up, and a reduced engine power comes on and the rpms dont like to rise. i can only get it it to about 55 mph, i can turn it off and start it back up and the cars pedal will be fine i can rev it to the moon in neutral, just when i start to take off in first, it will start to go just fine, then when it reaches around 2k the car will just throw all lights up and go into reduced power mode, i scanned the car and both the codes for the APP sensor come up. i was under the impression that these cars had a sensor in the gas pedal itself which is called the APP sensor. (acceleration pedal position).
p1125-acceleration pedal position system
p1276-app sensor 1 circuit performance
p1275-app sensor 1 circuit
c1278- tc system temp. inhibited by pcm.
take note that this is an intermittent problem, i can clear codes and the car wont throw these codes for a 1000 miles or more sometimes and everything will be just fine.
Accelerator pedal has two potentiometers going to the TAC
Originally Posted by chaacole
p1125-acceleration pedal position system
p1276-app sensor 1 circuit performance
p1275-app sensor 1 circuit
c1278- tc system temp. inhibited by pcm.
take note that this is an intermittent problem, i can clear codes and the car wont throw these codes for a 1000 miles or more sometimes and everything will be just fine.
Thanks
When you depress the accelerator pedal you change the resistances of 2 potentiometers. one has higher resistance, one has lower resistance. Both signals go to the TAC (Throttle Actuator Control) module in the passenger wheelwell and the TAC sends the signal to the Throttle Body control motor to open and close the throttle blade.
Sounds like the fault is in the accelerator pedal. Mine failed many years ago and I got the reduced engine msg on the DIC. Could also be a broken or frayed wire on either the Accelerator module or on the TAC, and also it could be the TAC. Like I said the TAC is no longer made and getting a used one is a pain. Look at the connectors and if possible use a DVM/Ohmmeter too see if the connections at the plugs are OK. before throwing cash at the modules.
When you depress the accelerator pedal you change the resistances of 2 potentiometers. one has higher resistance, one has lower resistance. Both signals go to the TAC (Throttle Actuator Control) module in the passenger wheelwell and the TAC sends the signal to the Throttle Body control motor to open and close the throttle blade.
Sounds like the fault is in the accelerator pedal. Mine failed many years ago and I got the reduced engine msg on the DIC. Could also be a broken or frayed wire on either the Accelerator module or on the TAC, and also it could be the TAC. Like I said the TAC is no longer made and getting a used one is a pain. Look at the connectors and if possible use a DVM/Ohmmeter too see if the connections at the plugs are OK. before throwing cash at the modules.
ok, so where can i get the whole pedal assembly with the APP and everything, i looked under the dash and and can see the pedal and the little black module all there that sends the signal, where can i get that pedal assembly? i cant seem to find it anywhere.
Being that's it is intermittent I'd disconnect the 2 connectors (pictures enclosed) at the TAC module and make a good visual inspection of the pin fitment and that there is no evidence of corrosion...I'd spray everything down with some good contact cleaner and re connect...this is the contact cleaner I like !!...well, I'd start there. With a good scan tool you can look at all the APP and TPS voltages and see if any are out of range....makes troubleshooting SO much easier.
rwobs,im going to do that in the morning.
what about my pedal? i know there is a sensor in the pedal assembly and bighank has said that the fault is most likely in my pedal, and i lean to agree with him. that being said, back to my original question at the beginning of the post, anybody know where i can get the app sensor or the whole pedal assembly?
Thanks.
ok so update, i cleared the codes and drove the car a couple miles, ran just fine nothing popped up. i decided to go ahead and take out the TAC and look at the connections and harness anyways. i found both the connectors and the TAC pins looked perfect, not a spot of corrosion or any bent pins of any sort. so i put it all back together (that back third bolt holding the TAC to the pcm was kinda a bitch for me to get too btw, granted i have big arms though) i also took of the drivers fuel rail cover to inspect all the wiring that goes to TPS and back to the firewall and so on. all looked great. take note this car has never seen rain or snow until i got it, so i wasnt expecting to find any corrosion anyways, but im not as naive enough to not at least double check it. im thinking ill go ahead and order a pedal assembly. unless you guys have other thoughts
I was really surprised to find the Ignition Switch was bad.
After checking out all wiring at the TAC, TB position sensor and motor and back to the Accelerator pedal sensor.I bought a used TAC and the symptoms were the same. Then I bit the bullet, tore apart the dash and replaced the electrical Ignition Switch part, D1499C (not the lock and key) , and my car was back to life. Mine would not start at all. Not saying it is the switch but if low voltage you can get weird symptoms. Good at disassembling things but not in the mood so I bought a NOS Delco switch, not a used one or a cheap replacement. On Fleebay the Pedal sensor is going for about $200 and up and the TAC at maybe $240 and up. Your symptoms look more like the pedal.but could be elsewhere.
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Do you need a TB position sensor or a TAC?
