This is an '03 C5 Z06 with full A&A kit (SC/Cam/C6Z exhaust):

So last night I left office around 8pm and got on the freeway. It was the first night without rain in LA this week and freeway was clear. I got up to 105 to merge, then pushed in the clutch and let it coast. The lights (nightflyer kit, so low current draw), front defrost (on low) and stereo were on; traction control was in competitive driving mode; and I was praying that the CHP didn't see what I had just done.

After it slowed down to about 80, I started to let the clutch out in 6th to drive on. It felt like I was downshifting, so I pulled it into neutral thinking I had it in 4th and tried again. Same thing.

That's when I noticed headsup telling me to check guages. I put traction control on and didn't see any messages. Then I noticed my RPM was ZERO!

I tried starting it by letting clutch out but that was only slowing me down. I tried the starter, but nothing (cranked without starting).

Fortunately, I had enough speed to exit and as I approached the light (without power steering), I tried starting it again. Nothing. However, when I was nearly stopped, I tried again and it started but died. Tried one more time and it started. I gassed it a bit while I was still rolling, put it into gear and drove home using the streets. Stop and go with traffic lights the whole way and no problems.

This happened once a few years ago when a wire at the boost-a-pump had come loose. Exact same scenario, execept I never made it off the freeway and instead ended up blocking a lane during rush hour traffic at 5:30pm on a Friday.

I've seen posts on starter selenoid, ignition switch, fuel pump relay, PCM and crank sensor. My battery might be a little weak because I drive this car once a week. When I turn it off and remove the key, the buzzing that you hear sounds like it's slow. But beyond that, car's in great shape with like 70-75K on it if that. Also, over 10 years ago when the A&A kit was installed, the original fuel pump died during tuning and was replaced with a C6 unit.

Any ideas?

 

Any codes on dash?

 

No codes; no check engine

 

105 to merge ??...HOLY S$$T !!...not seeing RPM is a pretty good indication of no CKP signal which would translate to no ignition signal. I'm assuming the car had shut down by then when you noticed the Tach at 0. To verify no CKP signal see if you have spark AND injector pulse while cranking...if you don't know how that's done I can run you through that test...if no spark/pulse, start looking at the CKP sensor wiring and THEN the sensor. If you want to rule out an ignition switch and you have a multi meter it's best to do a voltage drop check on the ignition circuit (checking the important PINK wire in the starting circuit). Connect one lead to battery POSITIVE and the other lead to one of the 2 test points on PCM fuse 16 in the underhood fuse box....while CRANKING....see what the multimeter reads...should only be a few tenths of a volt. I'd start there...Check fuses 18 and 22...INJR1 and 2...they power the ignition coils and injectors...I'd also have your battery load tested.

 

My vote is for Crank Position Sensor.. It's behind the starter in the block.
Mine acted weird & did finally get me home too.. But that's what it was. You'll eventually get a code
if its that.

 

 

Great !!...let us know what Andy finds !!....hope he is a good diagnostician and not just a wrench turner !!...if he's good he should only be changing 1 part and not 3 or 4...good luck !!

 

It's Andy from A&A. He hasn't heard of it before. I hope it's a loose wire again. Otherwise, these things can elude you forever.

Anyone hear of this being due to competitive driving mode?

 

I think you are gonna be right.

 

If it aint running...should be easy to diagnose. Intermittent issues are the hard ones to diagnose. Good luck.