ncali

This is my first experience raising my car , I just bought the lifting pads yesterday and they havnt arrived yet,
I filled the flat tire with air to get enough clearance to get my jack under the car. I got the jack as far under the car as I could in front of the right rear
afraid of breaking something I carefully , slowly raised the car and removed the right rear. After removing the tire I could see that I was barely on the aluminum frame where the a frame bolts up. I put a block under the a frame (lower control arm) and carefully removed the jack,
Where are the rear jacking points? will it damage the rear suspension to lift it from that aluminum bar under the rear end?

Jackie N

See attached

You can't just pick any random place. Find the 4 green points and use a hockey puck.

ncali

Thanks for the picture, I Have purchased the pucks , they havnt arrived yet. I thought I read somewhere about a member of this fourn using 2x6 s across
and under the rear end? on the jack

mykream

Jack it up with the pucks at the 4 green points. Or, put a piece of lumber between the jack and the subframe in the rear and lift it.

wcsinx

Honestly pucks are just a way to idiot-proof the process. As long as you're careful not to pinch the body panels, you can just use a block of wood.

Jackie N

See below

lionelhutz

This shows how opinions vary. I would never use wood between the jack or stands and a car. It creates a setup that could slip or allow the car to move. I put the stands directly under the cradles.

But then, I would never use the little 2-ton stands like the above pictures show either. I only use 6-ton stands. After comparing them side by side it was obvious which one would be safer.

Jackie N

Four 6-ton stands for a 1.5 ton car lol talk about overhead

Wood is fine. It even crushes into place. There's no way it's slipping anywhere! Metal on metal is way more likely to slip.

JWM

Exactly. It is the only way that I will lift mine.

Bobtam

JWM

Same here, however, I place four pieces equidistant in front of the tires and drive up onto them to create additional clearance as my floor jack is not low profile

lionelhutz

As I posted - I would never do it.

Putting wood in there means the jack stands are separated from the frame of the car by some height. So, if things decide to move, they can. Anyone who thinks that the car will more likely fall off the stand when part of the crossmember is down INSIDE the Y of the stand is dreaming. If I was putting the frame of the car on top of the peaks of the Y of the stands, then yes it could slip. But, I'm not doing that.

It's nothing about weight. The 6-ton are at the 1st notch up when the 2-ton are at the top notch. Bump the 2-ton with your hand and it falls over. Try that with a 6-ton and you just have a sore hand.

I knew someone who did drop their truck on themselves and kill themselves. I don't mess around with "good enough" when under a car or make jokes about it.

Yet once again, as I posted - I would never do it. Everyone else is entitled to do whatever they chose. (except me apparently because you feel the need to attack my post, making fun about how it is all wrong)

punz

The issue with the wood flat and the jack stands, is that it could split, that would worry me. Maybe some 3/4" plywood between the 2x6 and the jack stands.

Bobtam

93Polo

A nice set of aluminum frame savers running the length of the frame rail makes jacking the car on the side much easier. A&A used to make them.

Elite is the only I am finding in a quick google search. I am not a big fan of covering up where the jack pucks would insert.

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/c...nd-mtg-screws/

lionelhutz

They sure do. I put aluminum strips along the rails. Was cheap and makes it's really easy to jack and support the car.

CJ Willys

Even w jack stands in place, I keep 1 or both floor jacks slightly engaged. If the stands slip, the jack is there.

gimp

A two-by-six can basically hold up a dump truck. It's not gonna split any time soon.