Clutch and supporting mod time
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 171
Likes: 20
From: Memphis TN
Clutch and supporting mod time
Just having anxiety about the $3,600 I spent today and need someone to tell me if was worth it haha. In all seriousness, just wondering if there is anything else I should get or look for... or advice on these installs. I have a friend that is a mechanic that I will be helping to install. List below:
mcleod RXT w/balanced billet flywheel. ARP bolts
tick master cylinder
new slave/throwout
tick remote speedbleeder
driveshaft shop carbon fiber driveshaft (eliminates the rubber couplers in torque tube)
new torque tube bearings
hinson motor and transmission mounts
mcleod RXT w/balanced billet flywheel. ARP bolts
tick master cylinder
new slave/throwout
tick remote speedbleeder
driveshaft shop carbon fiber driveshaft (eliminates the rubber couplers in torque tube)
new torque tube bearings
hinson motor and transmission mounts
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 755
Likes: 272
I say you’ve quite a nice shipment of parts coming in! The only additional item I’d purchase to install while you have the drivetrain out is an ECS trans brace, as well as fluids to change the diff/trans oil. Aside from those that, I think you’ll have a stout drivetrain ready to handle some abuse!
Side note: I assume you also will be changing the pilot bearing while you’re doing the clutch? Also, do some forum searching on match balancing your new clutch assembly with the OEM unit. There are lots of opinions on this and plenty of well documented facts. Collect that facts and make the decision for yourself. If you’re willing to take the risk with potential driveline vibrations, skip the step and roll the dice. I took the risk when I installed my Monster LT1-S clutch and got “lucky”. No vibrations.
Side note: I assume you also will be changing the pilot bearing while you’re doing the clutch? Also, do some forum searching on match balancing your new clutch assembly with the OEM unit. There are lots of opinions on this and plenty of well documented facts. Collect that facts and make the decision for yourself. If you’re willing to take the risk with potential driveline vibrations, skip the step and roll the dice. I took the risk when I installed my Monster LT1-S clutch and got “lucky”. No vibrations.
Last edited by wscott62893; Jan 23, 2019 at 09:22 AM.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 335
Likes: 139
I'll second wscott's pilot bearing. I just did my clutch last month on jack stands in my garage. PM me with any specific questions you might have.
Other things to consider:
- Fuel filter (extremely easy to do with the drivetrain out)
- Rear differential axle seals (if you have a leaky butt)
- Rear suspension components (ball joints, shocks, control arm bushings, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, etc...)
- Lower shift box
- Address any transmission leaks
- Interior trim (replace any cracked parts or change out shift boots, etc.)
- Exhaust upgrade
- Upgrade to a stiffer tunnel plate
I'd also recommend doing the simple measurements to determine whether your slave cylinder needs shimming. It's quick and easy insurance that everything will function correctly once all is back together.
Other things to consider:
- Fuel filter (extremely easy to do with the drivetrain out)
- Rear differential axle seals (if you have a leaky butt)
- Rear suspension components (ball joints, shocks, control arm bushings, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, etc...)
- Lower shift box
- Address any transmission leaks
- Interior trim (replace any cracked parts or change out shift boots, etc.)
- Exhaust upgrade
- Upgrade to a stiffer tunnel plate
I'd also recommend doing the simple measurements to determine whether your slave cylinder needs shimming. It's quick and easy insurance that everything will function correctly once all is back together.
