radio install question
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
radio install question
This is for my C5 2001
, I have a single DIN for a temporary use along with the PAC OEM-1
I just finished soldering all the cables together as I wanted to look nice. Do I need to connect the RED cable from the PAC to the footwell in order to fire up the radio?
Little confusing on the RED ACC cable. Should I also add a 20 amp fuse inline to the footwell?
I don't want to tap the brown ignition cable.
Pretty sure this is a NOOB question, just a bit confused at the moment.
thanks.
, I have a single DIN for a temporary use along with the PAC OEM-1
I just finished soldering all the cables together as I wanted to look nice. Do I need to connect the RED cable from the PAC to the footwell in order to fire up the radio?
Little confusing on the RED ACC cable. Should I also add a 20 amp fuse inline to the footwell?
I don't want to tap the brown ignition cable.
Pretty sure this is a NOOB question, just a bit confused at the moment.
thanks.
#2
You do need to connect the red wire to a switched 12V source. They have add-a-circuit fuse taps if you really want to have it neat. If I recall correctly, there's a already a fuse in the footwell for the stock radio that is 12V acc.
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Anyone else have any other tips?
#4
Melting Slicks
This is for my C5 2001
I have a single DIN for a temporary use along with the PAC ROEM-VET1
I just finished soldering all the cables together as I wanted to look nice. Do I need to connect the RED cable from the PAC to the footwell in order to fire up the radio?
Little confusing on the RED ACC cable. Should I also add a 20 amp fuse inline to the footwell?...
I have a single DIN for a temporary use along with the PAC ROEM-VET1
I just finished soldering all the cables together as I wanted to look nice. Do I need to connect the RED cable from the PAC to the footwell in order to fire up the radio?
Little confusing on the RED ACC cable. Should I also add a 20 amp fuse inline to the footwell?...
Since this harness is already fuse-protected you really don't need to add another fuse.
Just to double-check, did you connect the BLUE-WHITE from radio to BLUE on the PAC ROEM-VET1? If you wired it "blue-white" to "blue-white" instead, your door subs will not turn on and then no real bass.
#5
Safety Car
Thread Starter
The PAC ROEM-VET1 requires a switched power source in its red wire. Since the factory radio connector does not have a switched power source (OEM radio is controlled via Serial Bus) it has to be obtained somewhere else. The most common place to do so in 97-03 cars is from the yellow wire that is part of the unused 3 wires taped together in the passenger's footwell (yellow: switched via Fuse 11, orange: always hot via Fuse 7 and black: ground).
Since this harness is already fuse-protected you really don't need to add another fuse.
Just to double-check, did you connect the BLUE-WHITE from radio to BLUE on the PAC ROEM-VET1? If you wired it "blue-white" to "blue-white" instead, your door subs will not turn on and then no real bass.
Since this harness is already fuse-protected you really don't need to add another fuse.
Just to double-check, did you connect the BLUE-WHITE from radio to BLUE on the PAC ROEM-VET1? If you wired it "blue-white" to "blue-white" instead, your door subs will not turn on and then no real bass.
Will let you know though, i did notice the rear are weaken but the stereo i bought is a cheapo until i figure out what double din i want.
Least it has bluetooth which is great. I did adjust tje pac volume but the rear setting still usless on it. Still sounds louder than stock radio though.
#6
Safety Car
Thread Starter
The PAC ROEM-VET1 requires a switched power source in its red wire. Since the factory radio connector does not have a switched power source (OEM radio is controlled via Serial Bus) it has to be obtained somewhere else. The most common place to do so in 97-03 cars is from the yellow wire that is part of the unused 3 wires taped together in the passenger's footwell (yellow: switched via Fuse 11, orange: always hot via Fuse 7 and black: ground).
Since this harness is already fuse-protected you really don't need to add another fuse.
Just to double-check, did you connect the BLUE-WHITE from radio to BLUE on the PAC ROEM-VET1? If you wired it "blue-white" to "blue-white" instead, your door subs will not turn on and then no real bass.
Since this harness is already fuse-protected you really don't need to add another fuse.
Just to double-check, did you connect the BLUE-WHITE from radio to BLUE on the PAC ROEM-VET1? If you wired it "blue-white" to "blue-white" instead, your door subs will not turn on and then no real bass.
Radio installed and working 100% now i need to build a frame for it.
Incase anyone is using an aftermarket radio with a pac, you the YELLOW cable on the footwell to power the unit.
I didn't know it has bluetooth and it sounds great.
This radio has sensitive controls and lacks a mid level, also the rears are no longer 100 % full powered even with adjusting the pac.
This radio is temporary until i figure out what double din i want or find a great deal.