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The engine has been started but I have not picked up the car yet. As previously stated, the engine will run a 1000 miles of break in before the WOT throttle run. Will post break in oil once I determine what they are using. The shop is Next Level Performance in Longwood Fla just outside orlando.
Was the rotating assy balanced, after the rod and piston weights were changed? After what you spent it was something, I'm sure your builder did. Just never saw it mentioned.
Last edited by itsonlyairandfuel; May 7, 2019 at 11:53 AM.
Ok, to update, I have picked up the car and am driving it non highway. Geoff at Nextlevel performance say they are using Joe Gibbs dino oil for break in. At the 500 mile point the oil will be changed and full synthetic will be used. Oil will be changed at 1000 miles and the engine will be dyno tuned. I will post up the dyno sheet once that occurs.
I love the sleeper look of the stock rail covers. Sure, the FAST gives some sense that it's not all original, but if one didn't know one might well assume sub 400 crankshaft.
I am way too cheap and lazy to put on fancy fuel rails and rocker covers for show. At any rate, I have driven the car a couple hundred miles and it is definitely running cooler than it did even before the piston cracked. Also, I know alot of shops say break the engine in by driving it like you stole it but I am going to follow the advice of the engine builder.
Well I am going to take the car in for the 500 mile oil change early next week and they will check out the leak. I will take it to 1000 miles and get the dyno tune and post the numbers on here. As soon as that is over I am going to put the car up for sale. Frankly I don't have time for this **** anymore. Car has right at 50,000 miles.
Just got slightly frustrated, overall so far so good. Alot of work goes into a rebuild and it appears they did a good job. The shop has a good rep in Central Fla. Anyhow, had the 500 mile oil change and oil looks good. Going back at 1000 mile point to switch back to full synthetic and get the dyno tune. Will post numbers at that time. Since I have forged pistons I have considered installing a procharger but I think the wife might protest that decision.
Do you know what the static compression ratio came out to with the piston change? It might be a bit too high for anything more than say 5-6 PSI of booth anyway, unless you would would plan to burn E85 vs. 93 octane pump gas or run water/methanol injection.
How much material was honed/bored off of the cylinder liners? If overbored, do you know the final displacement/bore size? Was the engine assembled with looser piston ring gaps, piston to wall clearances and/or bearing tolerances?
I did standard compression ratio pistons (10.5 right?) running around 12-14 psi and it's fine. I run 91 and 50/50 water/meth. I have seen a single blip of knock of 0.2 and that's it. Lots of guys run that sort of boost on stock engines with same CR and I think the big issue is piston strength, not so much CR or being too knock happy etc on pump gas.... should be fine.
I would recommend the procharger/vortech route but I'm still having belt alignment issues lol. I'm tired of messing with it and will be taking it to a shop for them to laser align and get it sorted. Other than that it's pretty sweet though and the process has been pretty good.
I finally took the car in for its 1000 mile oil change and had the dyno tune. They also replaced a bad O2 sensor.
So far I say it runs excellent. Downside is that they charged $983 for this service. So they do good work but very pricey. Dyno showed less up than when it was dynoed in Ohio many yrs ago. In Ohio the ambient air temp was somewhere around 40 degrees F whereas the recent run was done at a heat index of at least 100 degrees. I know they correct to 73 degrees F but in my experience the heat just kills your power. I ran consistent 11.5s at Wats in then mid 50s to mid 60s. In the summer heat of central Florida I would be lucky to break 12 seconds. Anyhow, peak up was 410 hp.