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Hello everyone, first message on this forum, I'm from Switzerland, I'm 24 years old and I'm a fan of vette, I have a C5 of 1997 A4 and a C6 ZR1 100th a monster! I am in love with the lope and idle of cams, I am offered 224/228 114, is a good choice as the only modification on the car? is there better without having to modify the car? I know it's stupid but I'm looking above all the lope and aggressive idle, I will change the headers at the same time. I hope you understood me, a thousand thanks in advance for your answers
The 224/228 is a good all around cam. If you want more lope go to a 112LSA. The bigger the cam the more gear, and higher stall torque converter will be needed. In my opinion the 224/228 is a nice compromise.
Be sure to measure pushrods, Vettenuts started a good topic on this, and to match the cam with the appropriate springs. I very much recommend a new timing chain set, lifters, oil pump, and CHE or Straub bushed trunnion upgrade rather than one of the bearing versions. The rocker design improved as the LS was refined and they are relatively inexpensive so I would likely buy new rockers.
The 224/228 is a good all around cam. If you want more lope go to a 112LSA. The bigger the cam the more gear, and higher stall torque converter will be needed. In my opinion the 224/228 is a nice compromise.
Be sure to measure pushrods, Vettenuts started a good topic on this, and to match the cam with the appropriate springs. I very much recommend a new timing chain set, lifters, oil pump, and CHE or Straub bushed trunnion upgrade rather than one of the bearing versions. The rocker design improved as the LS was refined and they are relatively inexpensive so I would likely buy new rockers.
Thank you for your reply ! and if i improve my stall converter what can i have like cams? without further modification because I get to the limit of my bucks if the change is worth it. if not I stay on a 224 228 112LSA in stock converter and the changes you quoted me
I'm a manual transmission guy so I don't spend much time research stall converters. The link below should be a start for your research. Also most US owners with autos are concerned about 1/4 mile performance. You may want to email a few cam vendors with your goals. CamMotion, Brian Tooley, Vengeance racing, Texas Speed etc.
A word of caution if you go cam only watch the lift.
I am running forged piston and rods (no HP advantage) with valve reliefs so I have clearance.
Check with the company supplying the parts.
I missed adding the rocker arms and LS2 TB in my list.
For reference I have a C5 with a slightly smaller cam and head flow rating (AFR 205)
It is making 505HP at the motor (based on 15%), it's a M6
What're your goals with that setup? I guess my goal is giving my dads 2016 Challenger a good run for his money.
Hes got the 392 hemi in his.
Car used to spend a significant amount of time autocrossing. I've now moved to a different part of the country (East Texas) to where I'll be going back to my roots; drag racing and some occasional HPDE fun days.
I want something I can drive around town and a strong head/cam foundation to get myself deep into the 11's if not 10's on pump gasoline. I'll add nitrous if I need more.
You will need Trick flow 235 heads and a cam like a brian tooley LS1/2 Stage III Cam 231/242 .617"/.592" 112+2
with all of the supporting goodies and that will be your limit for a street car. bigger will not make it better.
If you want safe 11's to 10's you need some major upgrades.
Need more compression, more CI
forged parts and some NOS to guarantee consistent low 11's high 10's