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I replaced the original rotors on my 2000 hardtop with about 32k on them. I replaced them with dimpled and slotted rotors that had the cad wash on them with EBC Green Stuff pads. Mostly to get rid of the rust that would form on the hubs every time I washed the car. They were part of a group buy here back then. 10 years later and under 10k on them and they still look terrific.
The original rotors were still otherwise in great condition.
While mileage and condition of the rotors is important, if they are original to the car, it might be a good idea to replace pads as well. Most rotors can be resurfaced, but the thickness and condition of the rotor surface will depend on choosing between new rotors or resurfacing the OEM rotors. For replacement rotors, consider AC Delco "Professional Grade", Raybestos, or StopTech. Check with some of the Supporting Vendors to see what they have.
Also consider doing a full flush and refill of the brake fluid. A good quality DOT3 will work. Also consider replacing the flex hoses at each caliper with a stainless hose. I picked up a set of StopTech stainless hoses from Amazon.
Many, many rotors are changed before they need to be. Many more are ruined by un-necessary turning reducing the thickness below service limits. Much of the pedal pulsations people assume are warped discs are actually pad build-up on the rotor faces. The 'grab-and-release' of the contamination creates a similar sensation to warpage, but can be removed with vigorous abrasive cleaning. https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/warped-rotors-myth/
In part it depends on how the car is used. If the rotors run true, the rotors are not heat checked and are not worn below minimum thickness, new pads can usually be installed without replacing the rotors.
I just replaced the front rotors on my car with Stop Tech slotted cryogenically treated rotors. The old, OEM style rotors had gone 38,000 miles, 16 track days, four sets of pads and were still thick enough to be machined, but they were heat checked.