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Old May 5, 2019 | 12:19 PM
  #41  
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I don’t think I ever touched the tensioner lock because the tensioner bolt wasn’t in my kit. Do I have to take the blower back off and remove a bolt out ? I’ll try and get a picture up after work today.i thought maybe it was just a bolt that eased the tension on the belt and could get around it with a little force. I’ll be back at it tomorrow. Is there a location on where this tensioner is ? ( so exhausted and sore ) 😌.

Last edited by Speedy007; May 5, 2019 at 12:21 PM.
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Old May 5, 2019 | 12:34 PM
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no you don't have to remove it, there is a bolt on the tensioner body (red circle) and you use that to open the tensioner just like your factory belt tensioner then insert a something in the hole in the tensioner body (green circle) to lock it... the hole is not threaded so you just need something to fit in the hole, an allen wrench would work great... there is a hole in the bracket that lines up with this hole so it holds the tensioner open and you have your hands free to route the belt, it makes the job super easy... do that and leave the manual idler loose like I said and the belt will go on no problem and once it's on release the spring tensioner and use the manual idler to set the final belt tension



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Old May 5, 2019 | 01:53 PM
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Awesome thanks 🙏 I will check this out tomorrow. I never did take that bolt out. I was told use a 2 inch. 5/8 bolt. Great post!!!


Originally Posted by neutron82
no you don't have to remove it, there is a bolt on the tensioner body (red circle) and you use that to open the tensioner just like your factory belt tensioner then insert a something in the hole in the tensioner body (green circle) to lock it... the hole is not threaded so you just need something to fit in the hole, an allen wrench would work great... there is a hole in the bracket that lines up with this hole so it holds the tensioner open and you have your hands free to route the belt, it makes the job super easy... do that and leave the manual idler loose like I said and the belt will go on no problem and once it's on release the spring tensioner and use the manual idler to set the final belt tension

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Old May 5, 2019 | 02:02 PM
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well you don't take the bolt out, you put a wrench on it and rotate the tensioner... it works exactly the same way as your stock tensioner so do the same thing you did when you removed the stock belt
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Old May 5, 2019 | 03:27 PM
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Will do!

Originally Posted by neutron82
well you don't take the bolt out, you put a wrench on it and rotate the tensioner... it works exactly the same way as your stock tensioner so do the same thing you did when you removed the stock belt
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Old May 6, 2019 | 01:21 PM
  #46  
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got the belt set on I guess now I need to drill a hole for the air sensor? Any recommendations on drill bit size?

Last edited by Speedy007; May 6, 2019 at 01:54 PM.
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Old May 6, 2019 | 11:31 PM
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glad you got the belt on... I'm assuming you are going speed density and eliminating the maf?... what I do with the iat sensor is drill a hole in the bottom of the charge pipe a little smaller than the threads and then just tighten it up with a socket and put a bead of jb weld around the perimeter to seal it up... I have had mine that way for years with no problems and it isn't noticeable being on the bottom... you can also buy a bung to screw the sensor into and have it welded into the pipe
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Old May 7, 2019 | 12:32 AM
  #48  
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I put the sensor in the metal pipe dead center, and the maf just before the tb. I also drilled out a 1 inch hole for the air pump. Overall I ended up with a coolant leak there’s a hex bolt freeze plug I never took out on the old head Any idea hex socket I will need ? ( Got it out with a 8mm hex socket on a 3/8 end ratchet.)Factory bolt comes with a sealant on the upper threads. Speed density never come across such a thing need to research it.

Last edited by Speedy007; May 7, 2019 at 01:45 PM.
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Old May 7, 2019 | 08:00 PM
  #49  
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Sounds so beefy it’s a total monster compared to what it was thank you for the help and support. It was definitely worth the every ounce of effort.
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Old May 7, 2019 | 08:46 PM
  #50  
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wait until you make a pull all the way through 4th gear
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Old May 7, 2019 | 09:00 PM
  #51  
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I dunno about all the way through 4th my fourth tops out at like 140 something.


Last edited by Speedy007; May 7, 2019 at 09:03 PM.
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Old May 7, 2019 | 09:16 PM
  #52  
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rev it higher lol... taller tires will also help top speed in each gear
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Old May 7, 2019 | 09:39 PM
  #53  
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Got new tires on it now.


Last edited by Speedy007; May 8, 2019 at 10:05 PM.
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Old May 13, 2019 | 04:56 PM
  #54  
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Got some squeaking going on should have changed the a/c belt while I was down there.

Last edited by Speedy007; May 21, 2019 at 07:34 PM.
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Old Jul 11, 2019 | 12:21 AM
  #55  
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Great going down the road I hear ting ting ting. I pull over and noticed the top mount bolt on my new s/c is hanging there with the inserts riding on top of the belt.The bolt took 5-6 threads with it.

Last edited by Speedy007; Jul 12, 2019 at 12:16 AM.
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Old Aug 3, 2019 | 01:22 PM
  #56  
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Still bothered the bolt had tore 4-5 threads out of the v3 unit. The supplied bolt was 6 inches and way to short to be in there in the 1st pace. I replaced with a 7 inch bolt with washers for the extra length. Still missing 4-5 threads.

Last edited by Speedy007; Aug 3, 2019 at 02:17 PM.
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Old Aug 3, 2019 | 04:00 PM
  #57  
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you sure you put the bolts in the right spot?... there are 2 that are longer than the rest, maybe they got mixed up somehow?
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Old Aug 3, 2019 | 04:25 PM
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the top two were the exact same size and the tops are longer than the bottom. That was concluded before installing.

Last edited by Speedy007; Aug 3, 2019 at 04:25 PM.
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