Bleeding brakes, help please!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 26
Likes: 2
Bleeding brakes, help please!
I'm a new vette owner, not new to cars or mechanical skills, just new to vettes. I bought Wilwood brakes for all 4 corners. I didn't really think of the complicated brake system or how bleeding them may not be straight forward until now. I've searched on the forum and other tech places and haven't found what I need to know. What do I need to know to swap these calipers/lines out? Or point me in the right direction if this is something that's been addressed several times, maybe my research skills just suck lol.
I want to swap all this out this weekend along with my 15" conversion spindles so I can run true "big n littles" so any quick answers guiding me in the right direction are highly highly appreciated!
PS- not flushing the system. just bleeding from the OE hard line to the caliper.
-Michael
I want to swap all this out this weekend along with my 15" conversion spindles so I can run true "big n littles" so any quick answers guiding me in the right direction are highly highly appreciated!
PS- not flushing the system. just bleeding from the OE hard line to the caliper.
-Michael
Last edited by 151; Mar 14, 2019 at 10:38 PM.
Drifting
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,692
Likes: 489
From: Denver, NC
They bleed like normal brakes. If the ABS unit was opened/changed, then you would need a way (Tech2) to cycle the ABS and bleed it. To make your life easy bleeding wise, don't let the master drain totally while doing the work.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Mar 14, 2019 at 11:02 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 755
Likes: 272
I agree with Ed, just be certain you don't let the entire system drain out. In addition, I believe the proper bleeding order is RR, LR, RF, LF (right being passenger side, left being driver)
Definitely pick up some speed bleeders while you're at it. It'll make your life 100 times easier and let you bleed the brakes without a helper.
Definitely pick up some speed bleeders while you're at it. It'll make your life 100 times easier and let you bleed the brakes without a helper.
Last edited by wscott62893; Mar 15, 2019 at 10:37 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
You can use the Motive Bleeder without putting brake fluid into the jug. Motive makes a kit just for GM reservoirs that will work on a C5.
Attach the cap to the M/C reservoir and use the pump handle to bring up air pressure to about 10-12 psi. Then you can open each bleed screw in turn on the calipers. That air pressure will be enough to start brake fluid moving into the new lines and caliper.. Close the bleed screw when the fluid comes out in a steady stream.Make sure that the fluid level in the reservoir doesn't get so low that you get air into the master cylinder. Do one caliper at a time and keep a close eye on the fluid level. Refill as necessary.
.
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,009
Likes: 1,142
From: Oregon
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
You can use the Motive Bleeder without putting brake fluid into the jug. Motive makes a kit just for GM reservoirs that will work on a C5. https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Produc...2M4K4WGRZ64AJQ Attach the cap to the M/C reservoir and use the pump handle to bring up air pressure to about 10-12 psi. Then you can open each bleed screw in turn on the calipers. That air pressure will be enough to start brake fluid moving into the new lines and caliper.. Close the bleed screw when the fluid comes out in a steady stream.Make sure that the fluid level in the reservoir doesn't get so low that you get air into the master cylinder. Do one caliper at a time and keep a close eye on the fluid level. Refill as necessary.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I know it sounds dumb BUT,,,,,,,,,,,, Make sure that you install the calipers so that the brake bleeders are at the TOP of the caliper. You DONT KNOW how many people goof that up and pull their hair out cause they have soft brakes.
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Drifting
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,844
Likes: 375
From: San Jose, CA
That's funny, Bill. Yeah, the Wilwood kit has clear instructions about how to install the calipers, but it's still possible to mess it up sometimes.
I put wilwoods on my car. Straightforward, if somewhat of a time sink. New SS hose with the kit, yeah? Take off old hose, quickly put shop towel around the hard line to catch all the fluid. Take off caliper. Take off rotor. Put on new rotor, put on new caliper with proper pads, attach the new SS hose you hopefully got. Bolt it all up properly and tightly. Then bleed the brakes on all four corners till there are no air bubbles. Good opportunity, if you have a tech2 clone or access to one, to do an ABS bleed too.
I put wilwoods on my car. Straightforward, if somewhat of a time sink. New SS hose with the kit, yeah? Take off old hose, quickly put shop towel around the hard line to catch all the fluid. Take off caliper. Take off rotor. Put on new rotor, put on new caliper with proper pads, attach the new SS hose you hopefully got. Bolt it all up properly and tightly. Then bleed the brakes on all four corners till there are no air bubbles. Good opportunity, if you have a tech2 clone or access to one, to do an ABS bleed too.
Drifting
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,692
Likes: 489
From: Denver, NC
If it's a line I can't use a brake hose clamp on (like braided SS), I use a piece of rubber hose (sometimes with a bolt in it) to block off the line while working on the caliper (install it where the banjo bolt goes through).
In this case, if it's getting new lines, I would clamp off the OE rubber hose and leave it on the car while I changed the caliper, then install the new hose - minimal fluid lost - especially if you attach it to the caliper first.
If it's keeping old hoses, I'd use a brake hose clamp or the hose trick.
A needle nose vice grip with vacuum line over it is a nice substitute for a brake hose clamp.
In this case, if it's getting new lines, I would clamp off the OE rubber hose and leave it on the car while I changed the caliper, then install the new hose - minimal fluid lost - especially if you attach it to the caliper first.
If it's keeping old hoses, I'd use a brake hose clamp or the hose trick.
A needle nose vice grip with vacuum line over it is a nice substitute for a brake hose clamp.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Mar 15, 2019 at 04:39 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 26
Likes: 2
I do have SS lines, As long as I don't have to mess with the ABS it'll be easy. I just wasn't sure. I had ready mostly that you do have to use a tech II. I might use a vacuum pump, I don't think I could find anything like that motive bleeder, local since I want to do it tonight/tomorrow, although that would be nice to have.
Drifting
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,692
Likes: 489
From: Denver, NC
I do have SS lines, As long as I don't have to mess with the ABS it'll be easy. I just wasn't sure. I had ready mostly that you do have to use a tech II. I might use a vacuum pump, I don't think I could find anything like that motive bleeder, local since I want to do it tonight/tomorrow, although that would be nice to have.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,862
Likes: 594
From: Prescott, Arizona
Because of track use, I flush completely every two years with high wet boiling point brake fluid. Up until about four years ago I used a Motive Products bleeder and it worked fine to flush or bleed. More recently I changed all the bleed screws to speed bleeders and find that it is a little faster/ easier for me to bleed or flush using the speed bleeders.
I do not know if Wilwood bleed screws are the same size as stock.
If you are changing the flexible hoses, connect the frame end first with the master cylinder cover off, gravity will fill the new line. Then connect to the caliper and bleed.
Of course, do not let the master cylinder get low, whichever method you use.
Watch out- brake fluid is very corrosive on paint and many garage floor coatings. Do not touch your body panels with anything wet or damp with brake fluid.
I do not know if Wilwood bleed screws are the same size as stock.
If you are changing the flexible hoses, connect the frame end first with the master cylinder cover off, gravity will fill the new line. Then connect to the caliper and bleed.
Of course, do not let the master cylinder get low, whichever method you use.
Watch out- brake fluid is very corrosive on paint and many garage floor coatings. Do not touch your body panels with anything wet or damp with brake fluid.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,230
Likes: 427
From: LI NY
You can use the Motive Bleeder without putting brake fluid into the jug. Motive makes a kit just for GM reservoirs that will work on a C5. https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Produc...2M4K4WGRZ64AJQ Attach the cap to the M/C reservoir and use the pump handle to bring up air pressure to about 10-12 psi. Then you can open each bleed screw in turn on the calipers. That air pressure will be enough to start brake fluid moving into the new lines and caliper.. Close the bleed screw when the fluid comes out in a steady stream.Make sure that the fluid level in the reservoir doesn't get so low that you get air into the master cylinder. Do one caliper at a time and keep a close eye on the fluid level. Refill as necessary.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 40,995
Likes: 9,759
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
I do have SS lines, As long as I don't have to mess with the ABS it'll be easy. I just wasn't sure. I had ready mostly that you do have to use a tech II. I might use a vacuum pump, I don't think I could find anything like that motive bleeder, local since I want to do it tonight/tomorrow, although that would be nice to have.
Bill