2003 C5 Front Brake Pads
Thanks.




Bill
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts




The Carbotech Bobcat 1521™ is our high performance street compound that is our most successful compound. The Bobcat compound is known for its awesome release and modulation, along with unmatched rotor friendliness. Like our AX™ & XP™ line of compounds, Bobcat 1521™ is a Ceramic based friction material offering minimal rotor damage and non-corrosive dust. Bobcat 1521™ offers outstanding performance, even when cold, low dusting and low noise with an excellent initial bite. This compound’s virtually perfect linear torque production provides incredible braking force without ABS intervention. Bobcat 1521™ operating range starts out at ambient and goes up to 900°F. Bobcat 1521™ is suitable for ALL street cars, perfect for your tow vehicle, police cruiser. The Bobcat 1521™ compound has been found to last two-three times longer than OE pads you can purchase at a dealership or national retailer. That’s one of the beauties of Carbotech Ceramic brake compounds. Bobcat 1521™ is NOT recommended for any track use.
Found part listing here: https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts-l...mbers=19181427
Thanks.
Found part listing here: https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts-l...mbers=19181427
Assuming your brake system is properly operation - you have a working master cylinder, hydraulic lines, power brakes, non-leaking calipers and lines, etc --
Any pad you get, unless it's made out of tin foil and prayers, is going to work well enough with your rotor and your caliper to lock up your street tires.
The stock pads? They will lock up your tires.
EBC Reds? They will lock up your tires. Yellows? Yep. Stoptechs? Yep. Hawk HPS 5.0? Yep. Hawk track pads? Yep.
So if a brake pad is capable of locking up your tires and activating ABS, you don't need more stopping power. You have enough to stop the car as fast as it physically can stop, given your speed, the friction coefficient of your tires, and your ABS system working properly (or you threshold braking perfectly).
If you drive on the street in a manner that will cause the stock pads to fade or the recommended fluid to heat up and lose effectiveness, you're driving like a maniac and you should get off the road and away from me and other humans.
Discussions of stopping power are only useful in the context of track use, and stopping power versus heat -- in other words, repeated deceleration from high speeds.
On the street, it's much more useful to consider cost, longevity (a different part of cost), dusting, and noise. The pad will stop you just fine.
This is why the first thing I asked OP was what kind of driving they were doing as it is by far the most relevant question. They said street, nothing too fast. So beyond just stock or stock-equivalent hardware, I recommended a basic all-around pad that I think (check, don't quote me on this) is cheaper than stock, offers good manners as far as noise goes (use brake quiet on the back as you're supposed to), though it does dust, but offers confidence that you won't ever fade it on the street if you decide to drive a little more spiritedly. That, or an equivalent pad, is by far the fanciest stuff that makes sense to put on a street car.
We would like to take the car on Route 66 end-to-end so are trying to get it ready. Don't want to have to look for brakes in Seligman, AZ!
We don't take it on track days or anything like that.
Assuming your brake system is properly operation - you have a working master cylinder, hydraulic lines, power brakes, non-leaking calipers and lines, etc --
Any pad you get, unless it's made out of tin foil and prayers, is going to work well enough with your rotor and your caliper to lock up your street tires.
The stock pads? They will lock up your tires.
EBC Reds? They will lock up your tires. Yellows? Yep. Stoptechs? Yep. Hawk HPS 5.0? Yep. Hawk track pads? Yep.
So if a brake pad is capable of locking up your tires and activating ABS, you don't need more stopping power. You have enough to stop the car as fast as it physically can stop, given your speed, the friction coefficient of your tires, and your ABS system working properly (or you threshold braking perfectly).
If you drive on the street in a manner that will cause the stock pads to fade or the recommended fluid to heat up and lose effectiveness, you're driving like a maniac and you should get off the road and away from me and other humans.
Discussions of stopping power are only useful in the context of track use, and stopping power versus heat -- in other words, repeated deceleration from high speeds.
On the street, it's much more useful to consider cost, longevity (a different part of cost), dusting, and noise. The pad will stop you just fine.
This is why the first thing I asked OP was what kind of driving they were doing as it is by far the most relevant question. They said street, nothing too fast. So beyond just stock or stock-equivalent hardware, I recommended a basic all-around pad that I think (check, don't quote me on this) is cheaper than stock, offers good manners as far as noise goes (use brake quiet on the back as you're supposed to), though it does dust, but offers confidence that you won't ever fade it on the street if you decide to drive a little more spiritedly. That, or an equivalent pad, is by far the fanciest stuff that makes sense to put on a street car.
If you want cheap, there are some ebay/amazon kits floating out there, where you get a full set - four blank rotors, eight pads - for like $170. It's so cheap as to be suspicious, but multiple forum members report no issues with them after a few years, and they've been for sale for a number of years at this point.
If you want to "keep it simple," a stock pad and stock blank rotor will be appropriate for you.
If you want to have some "room for activities," there are a number of street pads that will be okay. A bunch were already mentioned here.
You really can't go wrong as long as you don't try to spend a bunch of money on features you don't need. Then you will end up annoying yourself with a bunch of squealing and dusting










