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So I have an 02 base with 35k miles that I recently had Corsa extreme cat backs/x-pipe installed on. Just decided to go with headers too so I bought Pacesetter ceramic coated LT's along with the cats. I'm not going to do any engine mods, just bolt on stuff. Found a local performance shop that will do a complete install for $650. Trying to decide it is even worth it for me to do the install myself. Like anyone else, I'd like to have the extra $650 for other mods i.e. shocks & sway bars. My budget isn't so tight that I have to do the install myself. So do I do the install myself and get the suspension parts now, or wait another 2 or 3 months on the suspension parts and let someone else have the glory of doing the install.
If you’re comfortable doing your own wrenching and have the tools to get your car about 12” off the ground (jack and jack stands at a minimum), then you should be able to do it on your own. Removing and installing headers overall is quite simple. Especially if you follow a DIY. It’s more the space restriction with working under the car that can be the challenge.
Also be sure the headers you bought will work with the Corsa X-pipe. If not, at least the axle back portion. Most headers come with a mating X-pipe. I’m not familiar with the Pacesetter product though so I can’t say one way or another
Last edited by wscott62893; Mar 21, 2019 at 06:12 AM.
If you’re comfortable doing your own wrenching and have the tools to get your car about 12” off the ground (jack and jack stands at a minimum), then you should be able to do it on your own. Removing and installing headers overall is quite simple. Especially if you follow a DIY. It’s more the space restriction with working under the car that can be the challenge.
Also be sure the headers you bought will work with the Corsa X-pipe. If not, at least the axle back portion. Most headers come with a mating X-pipe. I’m not familiar with the Pacesetter product though so I can’t say one way or another
Actually I do have all of the tools to do the job. Including the jackstands and ramps. I’m definitely capable of doing the job. I guess my greatest concern is how everything is going to match up from the headers back. The tech at pacesetter told me that everything would match up no problem. But my guess is there will need to be some modification somewhere in the process. I’m sure I could get it figured out, but just not sure if I want to take the time to do the work or take the easy way out and pay somebody to do it. Thanks for sharing your opinion. Much appreciated.
If the Pacesetter system has flanges at the far end to mount up to the axleback, I can’t see there being too much “custom” work that will need to be done. Those systems are typically designed to bolt right in. I say go for it! $650 is a lot of cash to save. Even if it takes you an entire weekend.
If they don’t have flanges, then that complicates things a bit, but still totally doable.
Last edited by wscott62893; Mar 21, 2019 at 06:27 AM.
If the Pacesetter system has flanges at the far end to mount up to the axleback, I can’t see there being too much “custom” work that will need to be done. Those systems are typically designed to bolt right in. I say go for it! $650 is a lot of cash to save. Even if it takes you an entire weekend.
If they don’t have flanges, then that complicates things a bit, but still totally doable.
The system is LT’s and cats. The cats would bolt “clamp” to the section of pipe with the rear o2 sensors then into the Corsa x-pipe. So d have to cut that section off just behind the factory cats in order to use it.
Which is no big deal. See photo. I’m liking what you are saying though. It isn’t a daily driver and I have a garage. So I can walk away from it for a while if the frustration level gets to high. Lol
I do value the satisfaction that comes with doing a job yourself. Just for a better visual here are photos of the headers and cats. Looks like I wouldn't be using the extension pictured with the headers.
I did my header install myself (piece of cake), then took it to a shop and had them weld it all up. Cost me $100. Money well spent and a lot saved on doing most of it myself. Go for it.
Just a thought if you're going to do it yourslf. May be wise to pick up some heat wrap online to make sure no wires, starters and AC lines don't get cooked. You'll have lots of access while the manifolds are out. good time to replace the AC compressor seals, if they need it.
Just make sure the headers you choose are "known" to be easy to install based on the experiences of others here on the Forum - the set I selected ultimately required removal of the LH engine mount nut underneath, rocking the engine to one side as much as possible and trimming off a bell housing tab on the driver's side in order to slip the LH header into place.
The batwing oil pan doesn't do any favors in this regard, you might need O2 wire extensions depending on the bung location on the header and definitely don't tighten the headers to the engine until you've slipped the starter back into place and everything else you've removed (like lower bell housing if you have a manual transmission) is back in place and snugged down.
Jack the front end of the car way up, make sure it is well supported, remove your spark plugs just to be safe, or you'll likely break one if you're trying to do this all by yourself. BTW, I'd go the ceramic-coated route if I had to do it all over again - just a thought!
It all ended with me having to dent the tunnel plate with a ball peen hammer in order for one of the O2 sensors to clear properly... ABOVE ALL DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!
Just yesterday I installed the newest version of xs power headers and x pipe. They are nearly an exact copy of kooks and the install and fitment was surprisingly good.
It's going on the dyno today to see the after gains. For $550 shipped they are extremely hard to beat.
Where all the cheap headers fall short these nailed it and I almost hate to admit that lol
Just yesterday I installed the newest version of xs power headers and x pipe. They are nearly an exact copy of kooks and the install and fitment was surprisingly good.
It's going on the dyno today to see the after gains. For $550 shipped they are extremely hard to beat.
Where all the cheap headers fall short these nailed it and I almost hate to admit that lol
I used B&B headers since I already had their PRT cat-backs on, it was just a matter of adding their x-pipe and at the end of it all everything was 100% bolt together - no welding needed at all!
The only regret I had was there was no forewarning that it would be such a PIA. I've probably done nearly a dozen header installations over the years, so I thought this would be a breeze!
I ended up calling B&B, and they indicated that jacking the engine to one side would solve the driver side installation problem. Which it would have - if the intake manifold wasn't in the way... Clearance under the cowl is quite limited and leaves very little room for the engine to "rock" enough to allow the header to slip in from underneath, so their advise wasn't all that much help.
Having to saw off one "ear" on the transmission bellhousing wasn't that big of a deal with all things considered - but had I known I could have saved hours of screwing around by doing that first it would have saved a lot of frustration instead of eventually figuring it out for myself.
The only real complaint was that the O2 bung on the driver side (to me) seemed off by about 10 degrees which is what required going back in and denting in the tunnel cover so the wires on the end of the O2 sensor would clear and not get smashed between the header and tunnel cover. There really is no reason the O2 sensors need to hug the tunnel cover all that tight to begin with, so I'd say this really is my only complaint!
Aside from all of this - I love the B&B exhaust system! All of the components (headers, x-pipe, cats, PRT cat-back) are really solid and look like a million bucks, they're definitely not some cheap knock-offs. Everything bolts together, which saves a trip to a muffler shop for welding (which is exactly why I went this way after already having out the PRT's on a few years before). They sound great, and I don't have that popping sound I used to with the factory h-pipe.
I went ahead and went with the armor coat LT Pacesetters. Anyone ever installed these on a C5? Had some on my 99 f-body and they looked, performed and held up great.
Have to wait 4 weeks on cats, but I’m in no hurry.
Header Install
