When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi, I need some help to to solve this problem,
I got code c1228 and when I erase it , it will come back straight again. Then I push down the brakepedal and erase, the code will go away. Then I take the foot of the brakes the code is coming back.
I have cleaned the abs cables connections at the rear wheels. I hope some of you can help me thanks
Yes, I have year model 2000. Now I can erase the codes but it will come back as fast I get in motion.
And I have Another problem , the battery is draining out.I have a optima red top battery. I gonna check the all grounds. For the 2000year model I've heard that the ebcm module is at the rear but I can not find it. Isnt it at the front?
The codes I getting is 1228 and 1227 not not at same time. For exampIe I have no other codes than 1228 clear that code. Get the car Rolling and check codes again because servicelamp abs and tcs lights up and says needs service , then I've got the only code 1227 not 1228 and not both. I' m confused.
I've checked the ohm at the rear wheelsensers and I have 1020 and 1050 ohm which would be ok. I have not spinned the wheel cause I must have two Jack stands, gonna do that later tomorrow
Regarding batterydrain I recommed to disconnect the negative battery lead and connect a amp meter inn the current loop as Bill Curlee advice in this thread
in order to locate which component causing this drain .
I prefer to use my cheap ( USD 36 on ebay) but accurate enough amp clamp meter when doing current measurements . Then I do not have to open the currentloops to measure the current https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testge...-uni-t-ut210e/
Regarding DTC 1227 and 1228 then I would on my car , disconnected the battery first and then the connector on the ABS unit .
Measured the AC voltage generated from each at each pair of wheelspeed sensor pins on ABS plug when rotating the wheels when the car on jackstands .
Then I would be able to verify if the voltage from each wheelspeed sensor is getting to the ABS unit
Thanks for the help of the code issue , i have not solved it yet. I still have this codes. What i ve done is clean the grounds and cable connectors to the abs sensors, checked the ohm and voltage from the abs sensor 1080ohm and approximate 200mV AC when spinning the wheel by hand. It is in the range that gonna be ok. So... When Im clear the codes and have the brake pedal down the codes disaper and when I take the foot of the pedal it will come back. My question is , can it have something to do with the brakelights?? Why does the code diesaper when I have the foot on the brake pedal and reset the code???
If you see on this EBCTM drawing the stoplamp switch close when you apply brakes and battery voltage is applied from Maxifuse 8 to brakelights and the EBCTM input terminal 9 .
Maybe the electronic logic disable the speedsignal alarms during brake operations . I do not know
Hello again, now i ve have change the wheelbearings at the rear wheels at the both sides, to make sure that they is ok. It helped a while. Then came the same codes back. C1227 c1228 but not atsame time. They are pendling from side to side. Some times I have it on the left erase it start the engine and driving for a while and then i have it on the right when I check the codes. I Think it must be the ebcm thats is faulty. I can erase the codes and hear the bmpv noice that is working and in the DIC flashes that the abs system on and TCS system working.
But immeadetly when I put the gaspedal down and
Slip the clutch the warninglamps of abs and tcs is coming on again.
I wondering if anyone of you here have done so the warninglamps for the abs and tcs flashes when starting the engine and not get the fault message in the DIC whitout fixing the real problem. In my Country you are not allowed to drive it if the warning lamps for abs and tcs is lightend. You are not going to get ok from the yearly car inspection if the warning lamps is lightend. Thats why my question..
The yearly car inspection dont check the abs system with a scan tool. They Only check visually on the instrumentpanels DIC.
Well I prefer correctcly working abs and tcs but now I am not allowed to drive it in traffic Only at race tracks.
Most likely, the FEMALE PINS inside the cars main harness connector for the rear wheel speed sensors are spread apart and not making good contact with the male pin.
Do you have any goop in the connector. DIELECTRIC GREASE??????????? If so, REMOVE IT!
You either need to get a pick and bend the tang inside the female pin to make positive contact with the male pin OR replace that female connector. The front and rear connectors are DIFFERENT pin orientation wise so don't get the wrong ones if you order a connector pig tail.
Hi now I have changed the rear female wheelspeed connectors, it been better but the car still throwing the codes c1227 and c1228. When the car is cool can I erase the codes and not get them back immidelity which they did before, when the car is hot they come back and dont go away. And when the car is cool and battery full loaded and I set the lights on I get the codes immeadelity.
When I shift gear from 0 to 1 the codes are coming up.
It seems that I ve have three problems:
Heat issue: codes are coming back faster when the car is warm.
Current issue: when voltage dropping codes come back( when hit the lights on).
Wiring problem some where in the link from ebcm to the back. (When changing gear codes comes up)
Or
Could all this depend on a bad ebcm? It feels I ve done all and that what is left to do change ebcm and control the wiring from ebcm under the car.
Do any of you have some more ideas what to do to fix it?
This VOLTAGE ISSUE concerns me. When the problem happens, what does the DC VOLT METER in the IPC read?? Our C5s have a well known and documented problem with the Ignition Switch. The contacts inside the switch get dirty and burnt and it causes the output of the switch to put out a voltage a lot lower than the battery voltage on the HOT in RUN & START buss.
The DC Volt Meter in the IPC and the Digital Volt reading that displays in the Drivers Information Console (DIC) DO NOT display battery voltage. It displays the ignition switch output voltage!!
Modules in the C5 DO NOT like low voltage!! Most modules in our C5s have TWO power supplies. 12 VDC directly from the battery buss (HOT AT ALL TIMES) and power from the ignition switch (Hot in RUN & START) If the ignition switch is faulty, the Hot in run & start voltage can be too low to function. That can happen intermittently.
With out actually measuring various fuses in the fuse blocks that are powered by the ignition switch buss to see if they have proper voltage when the problem happens, blaming the ignition switch is my best guess.
If it has never been changed or you know it not working correctly, I would REPLACE IT! You can service it but, not all people have success doing that.
Remedy Code 1228 and 1227.
