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Five days ago, my CEL came on. Checked it through the DIC. P0327HC. Cleared it and went about my business. Got 2 knock sensors and sub harness. Installed them this morning. Took it for a drive and about 15 minutes later, CEL came on. Checked codes and said P0327H and P0332H. Cleared again. Took it to lunch later and again, CEL. Checked and said P0327H. Not sure where to go now. Any guidance would be much appreciated. Thanks.
First make sure you don't have a real "knocking" engine !!....next make sure both sensors are TORQUED to specs...since you installed new sensors and sub harnesses I'd check between that sub harness to the PCM for an open or short to ground...the front KS (P0327) goes to PIN 51 (dark blue) and the rear KS (P0332) goes to PIN 11 (light blue)...both wires are at the C1 connector....also check all connections for fitment.
Well, I got to reading and did a few things. Took it back apart to make sure I didn't pinch the harness. I did not and made sure to tape the wires down to the valley cover. I remember first installing them this morning I snugged them up pretty good. So I loosened them and did actually torque them this time. I'll take it for a spin later and see what happens. Thanks. Any idea why they showed as history codes but still illuminated the light?
The MIL light will stay on till after the 3rd time the PCM does its thing...history code if no fault after 40 “warm up cycles”...I remember seeing a TSB on the KS’s...using a RTV bead around them to prevent water intrusion !!...you still have to check the wiring even though they look fine and aren’t pinched !!...you know how to do the wiring checks ??...shorts and opens ??...you’ll have to remove the harness at the C1 connector to check !!
Took to work this morning and light came on 5 minutes into drive. Checked codes before turning off and got P0155C, P0327H, P0332H. So should I tackle the O2 problem first and hope the knock sensor codes have fixed? Thanks.
The knock sensor DTC’s are history codes so you’re ok there !!...the 0155 is for the HEATER circuit bank 2 sensor 1...it’s NOT the fuse because 1 fuse affects ALL the heaters...if you have a scan tool you can look at the O2 millivoltage on a cold sensor. With key ON after 2 minutes the millivoltage should go from 450 Mv to below 300 Mv...I think mine went to 175 or so...that tests the heater function...I would check the heater circuit ground which is located below and aft of the battery tray...it is splice pack 122 (SP122). Pull off the “comb” on the top of the splice pack and look for corrosion... Pin J is the pin number...it would be a good idea to clean G105...that is where all the heater circuits get grounded to.. it is on the left engine block near the front O2 sensor...you can check the sensor with your finger (watch out), infrared heat gun, amp clamp, ammeter, or a “load” light... if you have a DVOM that’s probably the easiest way to check with the AMP function...a good circuit draws from 1-3 amps or so...a good O2 heater should measure at the sensor between 3.5-14 ohms !!
Drive it yesterday, no 155 but popped up with 327HC and 332HC. Haha. Going to bring my meter home today and do some checking. I'll eventually resolve this. I did not buy Delco sensors. I bought whatever carquest had. BWD or something. Maybe I should pick up some delco sensors as long as I'm going through it again.
Thanks for the video help. Tested wires from K sensor plugs to PCM and got .5 ohm on each. Threw in some delco sensors, torqued and good so far.
Not sure if you're doing this every time, but I recommend you to completely clear all the H codes. Clear every single code after you do a change or a test.
I did clear them. Thanks. You make it back to the 1/8 mile again? I'm going on the 20th. Pretty excited.
I haven't gone back but tomorrow is "Fast Lane Friday" again and the CTS-V owner I raced is INSISTING on me going back tomorrow. I might go if the lady doesn't want to do anything tomorrow. I learned too that the track prep is garbage on that 1/8" (it's not a real dragstrip, it's part of the Homestead Miami Speedway course), so it's quite tricky to get a good 60ft in anything less than drag radials.
327H came back 10 days later. Cleared it. Came back 10 days later. Now today it came back as 327HC. I'm very confused. Will this code throw if it's indeed knocking? Or just a circuit issue? I can tell when it's about to come on because when I'm driving you can feel it lose power which I guess would be the computer pulling timing.
327H came back 10 days later. Cleared it. Came back 10 days later. Now today it came back as 327HC. I'm very confused. Will this code throw if it's indeed knocking? Or just a circuit issue? I can tell when it's about to come on because when I'm driving you can feel it lose power which I guess would be the computer pulling timing.
Wish I could help, but only time I had a recurring 327H or 327HC was way back when I bought the car. It had undergone at that time an engine bay wash, so I concluded that got water beneath the intake manifold. The code kept coming for about a week, then went away on it's own. It never came back but about a year later, eventually when I did my cam and bolt-ons project on it, I took the intake manifold off and saw that the front knock sensor was corroded half way to hell. I replaced both knock sensors, the knock sensor grommet seals, the knock sensor harness, the valley cover gasket, and did the blue RTV "fix" on the grommets to never deal with this ever again. I've never had a real knocking situation on the LS.
327H came back 10 days later. Cleared it. Came back 10 days later. Now today it came back as 327HC. I'm very confused. Will this code throw if it's indeed knocking? Or just a circuit issue? I can tell when it's about to come on because when I'm driving you can feel it lose power which I guess would be the computer pulling timing.
The only way to confirm that the PCM is indeed retarding the timing is having a scan tool inside the car and watch the timing !!
I took it for a 30 minute drive today. Went fast, went slow, traffic, highway. Had my co worker watch the scan tool the whole time and no knock retard what so ever... I'm stumped.
I took it for a 30 minute drive today. Went fast, went slow, traffic, highway. Had my co worker watch the scan tool the whole time and no knock retard what so ever... I'm stumped.
It might not be fun but it might be a good idea to shakedown the wiring between your new sub-harness and the PCM !!
P0327 help please
