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First, the clutch:
About 2 weeks before my 2000 M6 coupe went in for storage last November, shifting got notchy. I checked the fluid reservoir and it was low enough to suck air into the master. Clutch action was no resistance until 50-60% compressed, then good. Reservoir topped off, I put her away for the winter with the plan to bleed the clutch in the spring when installing headers.
Fast forward to this afternoon, I go to retrieve her from storage and, after reconnecting the battery and firing her up without issue, transmission will not go into gear. Clutch action is no resistance until 80% compressed. Push the car back in neutral; there is a small puddle of clutch fluid on the concrete.
I bought the car a year ago at 97k, and I have put just about 2k on her. No idea if or when the clutch has been done before. Need info on what to fix and/or upgrade. Want to do it right; I'm not stingy on $$. What do I buy?
Second, headers.
AFE headers and catless X-Pipe will go on once I have clutch parts in hand. Issue is AFE X pipe has 3" outlets and I have not been able to find a 3" axle back exhaust. AFE doesn't make one; didn't see one on Borla's site. (Everything is 2.5".) I'd prefer not to pay for a custom exhaust if I can help it. Anyone else solved this challenge already?
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
where was the puddle of clutch fluid?... it's most likely either the clutch master if the fluid was near the drivers front wheel or the slave if the fluid was in the center near the bellhousing... the clutch master is the easier and cheaper of the two to repair so hopefully that's it... on the headers I am not familiar with afe particularly but are you sure they don't neck down to 2.5" at the axle back section?... off the top of my head kooks and lg make a 3" axle back, the kooks is nice but very expensive
Last edited by StingrayRebel; Apr 2, 2019 at 12:22 AM.
If you're expecting to swap the clutch, I'd plan to do everything (master cylinder, slave, TO bearing, flywheel, etc). Many folks will do everything minus the master cylinder when doing a swap. It isn't much more effort/money to just do it all. At that rate, there won't be any weak links left in the system and you should be good to go!
I installed a Monster LT1-S twin disk clutch paired with the Tick adjustable M/C. All of which can be purchased as a complete kit from Tick Performance. Personally, I love the combo from a performance/driveability perspective and have the piece of mind knowing it will handle more power then I'll ever throw at it.
Regarding exhaust, check out the LG Motorsports "BIG3" system. It's a 3" axle back system designed by a well known Corvette performance outlet. That would be my first choice for a 3" system.
where was the puddle of clutch fluid?... it's most likely either the clutch master if the fluid was near the drivers front wheel or the slave if the fluid was in the center near the bellhousing... the clutch master is the easier and cheaper of the two to repair so hopefully that's it... on the headers I am not familiar with afe particularly but are you sure they don't neck down to 2.5" at the axle back section?... off the top of my head kooks and lg make a 3" axle back, the kooks is nice but very expensive
The fluid was in the center, under where the bellhousing is. I'll double check the X-Pipe but I'm pretty sure its a 3". Thanks for the recommendations on axle back.
If you're expecting to swap the clutch, I'd plan to do everything (master cylinder, slave, TO bearing, flywheel, etc). Many folks will do everything minus the master cylinder when doing a swap. It isn't much more effort/money to just do it all. At that rate, there won't be any weak links left in the system and you should be good to go!
I installed a Monster LT1-S twin disk clutch paired with the Tick adjustable M/C. All of which can be purchased as a complete kit from Tick Performance. Personally, I love the combo from a performance/driveability perspective and have the piece of mind knowing it will handle more power then I'll ever throw at it.
Regarding exhaust, check out the LG Motorsports "BIG3" system. It's a 3" axle back system designed by a well known Corvette performance outlet. That would be my first choice for a 3" system.
Sounds like I should give Tick Performance a call, then. Thanks for the info, and the options for the 3" axle back.
Your clutch is NOT releasing fully because the system has AIR in it or is bypassing hydraulic fluid. I STRONGLY do NOT recommend driving it in that condition. You will destroy blocker and synchro rings. That will cause the shift issue you have.
MAKE SURE that you replace the OEM Pilot bearing with another OEM pilot bearing!!!!!!!!!!!
Your clutch is NOT releasing fully because the system has AIR in it or is bypassing hydraulic fluid. I STRONGLY do NOT recommend driving it in that condition. You will destroy blocker and synchro rings. That will cause the shift issue you have.
MAKE SURE that you replace the OEM Pilot bearing with another OEM pilot bearing!!!!!!!!!!!
Yes I agree not good to drive as it will kill synchro's. Looking to get it fixed, hence the questions posted here. :-)
I'll make sure I look into an OEM pilot bearing instead of aftermarket. Thanks for the info.
First, the clutch:
About 2 weeks before my 2000 M6 coupe went in for storage last November, shifting got notchy. I checked the fluid reservoir and it was low enough to suck air into the master. Clutch action was no resistance until 50-60% compressed, then good. Reservoir topped off, I put her away for the winter with the plan to bleed the clutch in the spring when installing headers.
Fast forward to this afternoon, I go to retrieve her from storage and, after reconnecting the battery and firing her up without issue, transmission will not go into gear. Clutch action is no resistance until 80% compressed. Push the car back in neutral; there is a small puddle of clutch fluid on the concrete.
I bought the car a year ago at 97k, and I have put just about 2k on her. No idea if or when the clutch has been done before. Need info on what to fix and/or upgrade. Want to do it right; I'm not stingy on $$. What do I buy?
Second, headers.
AFE headers and catless X-Pipe will go on once I have clutch parts in hand. Issue is AFE X pipe has 3" outlets and I have not been able to find a 3" axle back exhaust. AFE doesn't make one; didn't see one on Borla's site. (Everything is 2.5".) I'd prefer not to pay for a custom exhaust if I can help it. Anyone else solved this challenge already?
Stainless Works made a 3" axle back be sure to measure the outlet many have 3" through the mid pipe but reduce to 2.5" at the flange. If you have to adapt a good muffler shop should be able to weld a reducer on the end of the mid pipes. I would make sure they are set up for stainless steel.
where was the puddle of clutch fluid?... it's most likely either the clutch master if the fluid was near the drivers front wheel or the slave if the fluid was in the center near the bellhousing... the clutch master is the easier and cheaper of the two to repair so hopefully that's it... on the headers I am not familiar with afe particularly but are you sure they don't neck down to 2.5" at the axle back section?... off the top of my head kooks and lg make a 3" axle back, the kooks is nice but very expensive
I measured and you are correct! 3 inch collector going down to 2.5 inch exhaust. Thanks for mentioning I would have assumed 3 inch the whole way.
Got into the clutch tonight. What's normal depth? I'm at about 1/4 inch. Do I need to replace this now? soon?
Haven't bled the clutch fluid yet but it looks like the master cylinder was recently replaced. I've only owned this car for about a year. Can anyone identify the master cylinder make? The line to the slave is braded.
Also, what is the orange copper color deal in the middle of the line to the slave? Looks like a filter or something?
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
that's a tick master cylinder, you can adjust it from inside the car under the dash... the other piece you are referring to is the quick disconnect, basically disconnects the master cylinder from the slave
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Clutch Issues & Header Install
