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I am in need of help. I have a 2004 Z06 I recently purchased and it continues to give me code P0101 and the RPMS jump to 2000 and stay there. Once I clear the code the idle come back down for roughly 5 seconds and it gives me the code again and the Rpms go right back up. I have replaced the MAF and the throttle body with all OEM parts and this code won't go away. Has anyone seen something like this before?
Congrats on your purchase !!...before going further did you have any drivability issues before the code set ??... loss of power, hesitation etc ??...FIRST I would look at the air cleaner...is it clean ??...next, any vacuum leaks (important) especially since you changed the MAF...make sure bellows connections are tight and no tears etc... ok, a little word of advise...before replacing ANY electrical component you ALWAYS have to check the wiring...can’t stress this enough !!...AND JUST DON’T GO FIRING THE PARTS CANON WITHOUT TESTING...it can get expensive !!....if you have a voltmeter remove the MAF sensor connector...there are 3 wires we look at...other 2 are for the IAT sensor. With key ON there should be 12 volts on the pink wire, 5 volts on the yellow wire (signal), and less than .1 volts (normally much lower than this)on ground which is black/white ...the MAF ground is a block ground (not grounded inside PCM) which is denoted as G106. If you have a 12 volt test light connect it to battery positive and now probe the black/white...test light should be BRIGHT denoting good ground....you can also connect volt meter red lead to the pink wire and black lead to the black/white...you should again read 12 volts if the ground is good...you can start here !!...if your volt meter has a frequency function that is a better way to check the signal wire with connector reinstalled and engine running !!
PS- a bad MAP sensor can also cause the MAF to read airflow inaccurately...also, just because a DTC says MAF or O2 sensor in it does NOT mean that part needs to be replaced...other issues can cause that DTC to set !!
When I got the car it had all sorts of codes like the ABS module and the service column lock and the throttle body was not moving when you pressed the pedal. I purchased a used one and that went away. I later took the old throttle body apart and found oil inside the motor that controls the throttle blade. After I got all those code figured out I am now left with P0101. I now know NOT to keep buying parts which is why I came here for advice like what you provided. I do have volt meter but I have not tested the wiring since I could not find what the normal parameters should be. I will test that today and get back to you. I will also check for vacuum leaks and the MAP. I really appreciate your help with this.
Sounds great !!...testing the MAP is difficult since it sits behind the intake manifold...you can barely see the connector...with a scan tool that can read the MAP voltage it is pretty easy.
Okay I have tested the MAF wiring and I got the 12 volts and the 5 volts right away. I am going to try to check the connection for the MAP now and will look for leaks as well. Will keep you posted on what I find
Okay I have tested the MAF wiring and I got the 12 volts and the 5 volts right away. I am going to try to check the connection for the MAP now and will look for leaks as well. Will keep you posted on what I find
Ground was good, got a bright light from the test light. I just checked the plug for the MAP and got 5 volts. Is this good? Or does it need 12 volts? Also since I'm here should I just replace the MAP sensor?
Good News! I pulled the intake because it was so dirty and look at what I found! A huge crack under my intake that someone tried to repair! I'm no expert but im sure this is my vacuum leak! Getting a new one and will update you guys.
WOW !!!...was wondering how you checked that MAP sensor wiring without removing the intake manifold first....GREAT FIND !!...yeah that’s a vacuum leak all right...LOL !!
Oh yeah I tried at first but it was impossible to get in there lol. But man am I glad I pulled the intake and looked at it. Now I'm in the market for a new intake or maybe a good used one and hopefully this fixes the problem. Overall I'm just happy it's not electrical problems lol. The intake is an easy fix. Thank you C5 Diag for all the help!
“Normally” we find vacuum leaks (causing that crazy RPM) around the MAF area but usually we see lean code DTC’s...P0171/0174...without looking at some data PIDS with a scan tool or using a smoke machine to find vacuum leaks this would be a difficult one to find without this equipment !!...and yes the hard sensors to check electrically are the MAP, and the cam and crank sensors because of where they are located...you should probably look at the cam sensor and it’s wiring while you’re back there !!...yes maybe changing the cam and MAP sensors might be a good idea...OEM though !!
Hello everyone, could anyone tell me the PN of this hose? I broke mine and need to replace it.
This part may be discontinued...you can check GM Parts Warehouse...here is one from EBay !!...you should be able to use some fuel line and some clamps too !!