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Looking for pointers on bleeding my brakes using the Mytvac.
I used this for the first time and it did not work well. I could not find a hose/connector to seal around the bleeder nipple properly and i needed 3 hands to do it. Kept pulling air through around the hose and just did not work well. took me way to long and I'm wondering if anyone has any tricks or tips for this.
Thanks,
Vince
I've used the MityVac system for years on my cars and motorcycles. In most cases, it's a frustrating experience as air bubbles are usually present, originating from the seal of the hose to the nipple or the threads to the caliper. I recently gave up, threw it in the trash and went back to bribing my wife to sit in the car and pump the pedal. At least that option shows me air coming through the line and I can be certain I've got all of the bubbles out. With the MV, I just never was certain.
I'm sure there's a better one man system out there, but I've lost faith in the MityVac option.
Motive pressure bleed - is by far the way to go. Just used the Motive bleeder first time today and work perfectly. I did what folks recommended and that was to buy two 6΅ C-Clamps and toss the hook and chains that come with the unit.
If anyone has questions on how to set up and use I would be happy to help.
Very happy and would recommend to anyone!
Last edited by Sig1977; May 10, 2019 at 02:35 PM.
Reason: grammatical error
Motive pressure bleed - is by far the way to go. Just used the Motive bleeder first time today and work perfectly. I did what folks recommended and that was to buy two 6΅ C-Clamps and toss the hook and chains that come with the unit.
If anyone has questions on how to set up and use I would be happy to help.
Very happy and would recommend to anyone!
I also have a Motive pressure bleeder which works great. I also agree that you should get rid of the chains & hooks it comes with and use clamps to prevent leaks at the MC. If I could improve the design further I'd make the MC caps out of machined aluminum to prevent warping and get an even better seal.
Motive pressure bleed - is by far the way to go. Just used the Motive bleeder first time today and work perfectly. I did what folks recommended and that was to buy two 6΅ C-Clamps and toss the hook and chains that come with the unit.
If anyone has questions on how to set up and use I would be happy to help.
Very happy and would recommend to anyone!
Originally Posted by killian96ss
I also have a Motive pressure bleeder which works great. I also agree that you should get rid of the chains & hooks it comes with and use clamps to prevent leaks at the MC. If I could improve the design further I'd make the MC caps out of machined aluminum to prevent warping and get an even better seal.
I just pressurize the master without having to put fluid in the container, I just refill the master before bleeding each caliper, bleed till master is at the low level mark, depressurize & refill master then on to the next caliper, never had any issues with leakage, vey clean bleeding process & no brake fluid to clean out of the container, may take a little longer but works great.
I purchased the 0105 for my 77. Comes specific for the two stage GM cast iron master cylinder. Cost $64.00 Amazon and free shipping. Best money ever spent!
I just pressurize the master without having to put fluid in the container, I just refill the master before bleeding each caliper, bleed till master is at the low level mark, depressurize & refill master then on to the next caliper, never had any issues with leakage, vey clean bleeding process & no brake fluid to clean out of the container, may take a little longer but works great.
I have a similar Motive "jug", but mine has a "quick disconnect" chuck, rather that the threaded connection, since I have 3 different m/c adapters, for the different cars in the family fleet. I have the #1118 adapter for my Corvette. And I also use the same method that you use, for flushing all of the cars. Back in the 80s, I bought a Plews "bleeder ball", which you poured fresh fluid into, then clamped the "flat plate" to the top of the m/c, but that was back when we had those massive, cast iron m/c, and no ABS to fuss with. I still have that unit, but haven't used it in years.