I've read a bunch of threads on how to do this, but I want to make sure I don't screw up my clutch system. I started out with the adjustment rod all the way in and then started adjusting it out. I set up a mirror so I can see the driver's side rear wheel move when I shift. I've gotten to the point where when I push the clutch in and shift into first gear the rear wheel turns between two and four inches and then stops. The clutch pedal is getting closer to the brake pedal, but is still an inch down from it. Do I keep doing the adjustment process until there is absolutely no movement of the rear wheel, at all, when I push in the clutch?

Thanks ahead of time.

Spaggs

 

It’s been a little over a year since I installed my tick master. You definitely don’t want the rear tires turning when your in 1st gear with the clutch pushed in. Keep on adjusting it till the tires stop spinning. My clutch pedal sits just a little bit lower than my brake pedal.

 

I have a Monster LT1S twin disk clutch and the Tick MC. I measured actual disengagement of the clutch disk/flywheel under the car as I adjusted it. I used the “wheels in the air test” as a secondary validation. With all the inertia’s in the rotating driveline and the significantly reduced drag on the entire system when the car is in the air versus on the ground, I didn’t trust that test as much. (My opinion) If you’re checking to see if the car rolls with it on the ground, then I’d say that’s more accurate.

I’ve also done a ton of research on the subject and the general consensus is the clutch pedal always ends up about an inch below the brake pedal when using the Tick MC. If you’re getting closer then that, I’d be very careful you’re not overextending the pressure plate fingers.

Did you measure your clutch ensemble relative to the throwout bearing to make sure you don’t need a shim? If your clutch pedal is getting pretty high and still not disengaging fully, you may be in need of a shim.

It also wont be the end of the world if you don’t get it 100% perfect the first time around. If you take it out for a drive and have trouble shifting into gears at higher RPM, chances are you’ll want to increase the disengagement a hair more. It’s certainly better to need to add some disengagement versus having too much! Best of luck with the rest of your install

 

Guys.
Thanks for the input. My clutch is an RPS BC2 and I contacted Carolina Clutch and spoke to their lead Tech and according to him, I'm OK with the distances in my clutch. He advised I did not need a shim.

Right now the pedal is about 1" below the brake pedal. I'm going to do what you suggested and put it on the ground and test it as it is. The energy exhibited by my rear wheels when they roll their 3", is very little.

Thanks again!

Spaggs