EBCM Replacement time
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 330
Likes: 48
From: Poconos PA
EBCM Replacement time
I've run down the list of things to do from easiest, to most expensive. We are now at most expensive option. I replaced the battery, cleaned all the grounds, cleaned the ignition switch connections, checked the harness, replaced the speed sensor harnesses, replaced the front wheel bearings / sensors etc. ABS & Trac lights still come on after 5 feet of moving the car after each time it's started. Codes still say right front speed sensor fault which isn't possible at this point.
I located and purchased a new EBCM from ebay which cost a pretty penny, it's going into the dealership tomorrow for them to install it I would hope this fixes the car once and for all. They quoted me around $400 for labor (this is a rear mounted early 98 car) I just want the lights to be off, and the car to pass inspection because it's been a paper weight since after they changed the clutch and these dash lights turned on and refused to turn off.
Can anybody think of anything else it could possible be? I am out of ideas.. hoping this is the solution. I asked them to give the car a state inspection once it's fixed because so far it can't pass with the safety features not working.
I located and purchased a new EBCM from ebay which cost a pretty penny, it's going into the dealership tomorrow for them to install it I would hope this fixes the car once and for all. They quoted me around $400 for labor (this is a rear mounted early 98 car) I just want the lights to be off, and the car to pass inspection because it's been a paper weight since after they changed the clutch and these dash lights turned on and refused to turn off.
Can anybody think of anything else it could possible be? I am out of ideas.. hoping this is the solution. I asked them to give the car a state inspection once it's fixed because so far it can't pass with the safety features not working.
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 15,434
Likes: 3,981
From: Cape Coral, Florida
I've run down the list of things to do from easiest, to most expensive. We are now at most expensive option. I replaced the battery, cleaned all the grounds, cleaned the ignition switch connections, checked the harness, replaced the speed sensor harnesses, replaced the front wheel bearings / sensors etc. ABS & Trac lights still come on after 5 feet of moving the car after each time it's started. Codes still say right front speed sensor fault which isn't possible at this point.
I located and purchased a new EBCM from ebay which cost a pretty penny, it's going into the dealership tomorrow for them to install it I would hope this fixes the car once and for all. They quoted me around $400 for labor (this is a rear mounted early 98 car) I just want the lights to be off, and the car to pass inspection because it's been a paper weight since after they changed the clutch and these dash lights turned on and refused to turn off.
Can anybody think of anything else it could possible be? I am out of ideas.. hoping this is the solution. I asked them to give the car a state inspection once it's fixed because so far it can't pass with the safety features not working.
I located and purchased a new EBCM from ebay which cost a pretty penny, it's going into the dealership tomorrow for them to install it I would hope this fixes the car once and for all. They quoted me around $400 for labor (this is a rear mounted early 98 car) I just want the lights to be off, and the car to pass inspection because it's been a paper weight since after they changed the clutch and these dash lights turned on and refused to turn off.
Can anybody think of anything else it could possible be? I am out of ideas.. hoping this is the solution. I asked them to give the car a state inspection once it's fixed because so far it can't pass with the safety features not working.
EDIT: If spinning the wheel and the AV voltage is LESS THAN 100 Mv the wheel speed sensor is BAD !!...found this video !!
Last edited by C5 Diag; May 8, 2019 at 12:34 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
LMFAO!!!! DO NOT TAKE IT TO THE STEALERSHIP!
CALL ME ASAP. PM SENT!!! I have the solution to your issue!! Been there done that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! FIXED!!
PM SENT!
CALL ME ASAP. PM SENT!!! I have the solution to your issue!! Been there done that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! FIXED!!
PM SENT!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
My 02 ZO6 had the exact same issue. Replaced the hub, jumper harness with same issue. You have to know that, the GM Female pins in all of the connectors with FLAT MALE PINS just plain *** suck bilge water!
Over time, they spread apart on their own and most all of the time fail under maintenance when you disconnect connectors.
On the front wheel speed sensors (WSS), you have the hub with a pigtail. It has MALE PINS inside the pig tail connector. They plug into Female Pins on the jumper harness. The jumper harness connector has male pins on the other end that plugs into FEMALE PINS on the connector that is attached to the top of the frame inside the wheel well. That connector/harness goes directly to the EBTCM.
Disconnect the connector on the frame and carefully inspect the female pins inside that connector. Remove some of the old male pins from the scrap parts that you have from the repair.
Conduct a "PIN PUSH/ PULL TEST" on the female pins inside the connector on the frame. You should feel a slight but noticeable resistance when you insert and extract the male pin. Bet you a cold one that one of both of the female pins are all spread apart and don't make proper connection with the male pin.
Let us know what you find.
Bill
Over time, they spread apart on their own and most all of the time fail under maintenance when you disconnect connectors.
On the front wheel speed sensors (WSS), you have the hub with a pigtail. It has MALE PINS inside the pig tail connector. They plug into Female Pins on the jumper harness. The jumper harness connector has male pins on the other end that plugs into FEMALE PINS on the connector that is attached to the top of the frame inside the wheel well. That connector/harness goes directly to the EBTCM.
Disconnect the connector on the frame and carefully inspect the female pins inside that connector. Remove some of the old male pins from the scrap parts that you have from the repair.
Conduct a "PIN PUSH/ PULL TEST" on the female pins inside the connector on the frame. You should feel a slight but noticeable resistance when you insert and extract the male pin. Bet you a cold one that one of both of the female pins are all spread apart and don't make proper connection with the male pin.
Let us know what you find.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; May 8, 2019 at 04:42 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If the male pin has a sloppy fit in the female pin (sound sexual doesn't?? 
) that is your issue. You can replace the damaged connector OR re-pin it OR , attempt to bend the little tong inside the female pin that mates with the male pin and make the connection tighter.
I have pictures of a damaged jumper harness connector female pin compared to a BRAND NEW connector. Supply an e-mail address to send it to if you want it.
Bill
) that is your issue. You can replace the damaged connector OR re-pin it OR , attempt to bend the little tong inside the female pin that mates with the male pin and make the connection tighter. I have pictures of a damaged jumper harness connector female pin compared to a BRAND NEW connector. Supply an e-mail address to send it to if you want it.
Bill
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Why isn't it possible at this point ??...you replaced all the parts but did you check the sensor harness "electrically" especially if it is an aftermarket part or did you just fire the "parts canon" ??...you can use a voltmeter set to AC to check the sensor side of the wheel speed sensor but checking the harness side is a little more difficult...I use a sensor simulator and a Tech 2...the sensor simulator simulates the cars tire spinning and on the Tech 2 you read vehicle speed if the harness is good...pretty sweet !!...hope you didn't spend all that money needlessly !!
EDIT: If spinning the wheel and the AV voltage is LESS THAN 100 Mv the wheel speed sensor is BAD !!...found this video !!
https://youtu.be/qap4m_FR2J0
EDIT: If spinning the wheel and the AV voltage is LESS THAN 100 Mv the wheel speed sensor is BAD !!...found this video !!
https://youtu.be/qap4m_FR2J0
Excellent vid and diagnostics,,, If you own a shop with $3000 of specialized tools!! LOL!
I would have gone straight to the connector on the EBTCM, disconnected it and used a simple multimeter set on 2 VAC and probed the pins that correlate to the front right WSS. Spin the wheel and look for that voltage . It goes from zero VAC to variable voltage (dependent on wheel speed) If you see it at that main EBTCM connector, you have good continuity all the way to the hub.
Problem occurs when cars have intermittent failures when they hit bumps in the road. Then you need to look for that bad connection, crappy female pin or damaged wire.
Bill
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,596
Likes: 67
From: Bahama North Carolina
If the male pin has a sloppy fit in the female pin (sound sexual doesn't?? ) that is your issue. You can replace the damaged connector OR re-pin it OR , attempt to bend the little tong inside the female pin that mates with the male pin and make the connection tighter.
I have pictures of a damaged jumper harness connector female pin compared to a BRAND NEW connector. Supply an e-mail address to send it to if you want it.
Bill
) that is your issue. You can replace the damaged connector OR re-pin it OR , attempt to bend the little tong inside the female pin that mates with the male pin and make the connection tighter.I have pictures of a damaged jumper harness connector female pin compared to a BRAND NEW connector. Supply an e-mail address to send it to if you want it.
Bill
