***UPDATE ON THE VALVE TRAIN ISSUE"
I heard back from them today and they advised they couldn't find anything wrong on the top end. They are now saying it is on the bottom end. They advised it could be a spun bearing or worse. They are going to look at it more tomorrow. I asked him a ball park figure to repair it a least damage done to a worse case scenario. Right off the top of his head he advised may be around $2000 or so or up to $5000 to $7000 on a worse case. Does this sound about right from a dealer quote. I am not holding him to any price for anything upon even further inspection it could be better or worse. So I guess now wait for a call tomorrow.
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I took my 98 today to a local Chevy Dealer with a reputation for good Corvette service. I have been having a loud ticking at idle and it gets louder when you bring the RPMs up. It is also noticeable going thru the gears as well. They advised that it was a definitely a valve train issue but couldn't tell me for sure what it was until they looked further into. I understand this. Would anybody hazard a guess as what they may think it is and maybe cost to fix it. I've owned it for 7 years and the ticking was never there. Oil was changed last week and it still does it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks for looking. I know these could be a little noisy, but I have never heard anything like this in the years I have owned it.

 

Just to be clear, are you saying that the engine got "noisy" rather suddenly, you changed the oil, and it's still "noisy"? Also, what oil are you using?

 

You need to bite the bullet and get your hands dirty. Its pretty simple to remove the valve covers and inspect the rockers, springs and pushrods. Could be any number of things. Our C5 have an issue with the valve rockers. The needle bearings in the rockers can come out of the sides of the rocker and cause rocker slop/noise. Could have a cracked spring, bent pushrod, ect. The secret to saving a few bucks is to pop off the valve covers and dive in. Report back what you find and we can help you from there...

Hell, We can even help you do your OWN repairs!

Bill

 

Our valve covers use a reusable seal. If you remove the cover, you can put it right back on without having to replace the seal (if it is good shape. (they usually are)
NOTE! Do NOT use any kind of solvents on the rubber seal to clean it!!!!! Just use simple green or soap and water.

BC

 

If the dealer did the oil change did he use 10W 30, if he used 0W 20 that many new cars use that could be the source of the ticking

 

I was thinking along the same line, and that's why I asked in what order the noise occurred, either before or after the oil change. I used to work part-time in one of the "big box" parts stores. One time we got in a "six pack" of Castrol 0W-40, and it was "crushed" in transit. A little oil got pushed out of the caps of each of the 6 bottles, therefore it couldn't be sold as "good stock".

Knowing that winter was approaching, and the 'Vette was going away for a while, I snagged the 6 quarts for $6. Just before the snow flew, I changed the oil, and put the 0W-40 in it, figuring that it would circulate quicker, the couple of times I start the car during the winter. I started the car, after installing the fresh oil, just to back it in the garage, and the valve train clattered like a bunch of nuts being shaken in a coffee can. The next day, I dumped that oil, and put in 5W-30, and all was well, again.....

 

I drove it all of last year and no issues. I drove it a couple time this year when I noticed the ticking sound. I changed the oil using Mobil-1 5w30 and the ticking still there after the oil change. The ticking was there before and after the oil change. No hard driving during that time. Just some on occasion but not high RPMs.

 

I know just enough to be dangerous. But this is out of my league on doing any repairs like this. I know you guys could help but would rather let someone do it that has the proper tools and equipment. I would have enough to pull the covers and check things but would not have the proper tools if the springs needed to be replaced or anything like that. I would report back but the car is at the dealership. Even though this is in Bill's post..thanks to everyone who has responded. I will report what it is when I hear something back from the dealer. Again they have a good reputation for being on the Corvette end of their dealership.

 

Could you take a video of the engine bay while the car's running and move around with the camera to try to pinpoint where the sound is coming from? There are so many variables in the valvetrain. My guess would be a collapsed lifter, but a guess is all it is...

 

I posted this after I left my car at the dealership. So I can't take a video. That's what I am thinking a lifter issue. I will know hopefully next week.

 

To the top on an update..

 

I haven't heard of any moderately driven LS1 with a spun bearing. You don't strike me as someone who hammers on the car cold or lives life at the redline in high G turns. I hear of lifter failures all the time. Honestly, I'd seek another opinion. I wish you the best of luck. Hearing about you possibly losing a motor is heartbreaking.

 

Give us a video of it on idle and also rev it and make it at least a 30 sec clip.

Here's the problem if nobody can spot a problem on the exterior of the engine, then of course it has to be internal but the only way for them to find out is rip it apart.

Please make a video using your Cell phone and perhaps hover over the area you hear it ticking the most.

 

They checked the lifters and the springs and found nothing soft or mushy with either. The valve springs were replaced a couple of years ago when two broke within 6 mos. of each other. You are right I don't hammer on the car all the time just get frisky with it a couple times when I am out. In the waiting game now.

 

I dont know how a spun bearing/knock could be confused with valve train noise. Without hearing it, I dont think anyone on here can help you. Just throwing darts.

 

Crankshaft bearing issues (rod or main) don't sound anything like valvetrain noises.

 

I didnt realize i put definately valve train issue. I guess i should have said possibly valve train issue.. Maybe this is misleading you guys. I apologize for that. They called and said it was a spun bearing..I am going to have them rebuild the engine..They also found metal shavings, which i didnt or to be honest didnt even think about checking when I changed the oil.. They will send everything to a machine shop.

 

No worries, I was just surprised the dealer ever though it was valve train. Glad your getting it taken care of, you may be able to swap an LS3/L92 in for what a dealer would rebuild an LS1 for.

 

I was also going to suggest this but figured the OP might not be inclined to go through the trouble of the swap and recalibration of everything. I would recommend looking for a low mileage LS1 short/long block to save some dough.

However, I’d totally go LS3 if it were me. The potential of that extra .5L of displacement is pretty great.

 

This also goes to jrob56 as well. Believe me when I say that I did seriously consider an LS3 as a replacement. If the cost would've been close to the $10,000 mark I would have traded my truck for a C6 and sell the C5 as a roller and replace the truck with another cheaper version. I even considered an LS6 as well, but didn't want the hassle of dealing with an used motor and "possibly" dealing with the same issues. So just decided to go ahead with a rebuild. Mine does have a Z06 performance cam in it. The service manager told me with that cam and new cylinder heads would be the same or "maybe" a little bit better than a LS6. So may put new heads on it too. Thanks for everyone input on this issue. I did request the parts be saved so that I could see the actual damage done. If possible will post pics in another thread.