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Old May 19, 2019 | 12:14 PM
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Default No start

My 98 out for a 30 mi drive on Saturday after pulling from winter storage. Put back in barn after touchless wash w a blown right front directional bulb.

Sunday replace bulb and attempted start. Full juice starter not engaging...silent no click no nothin. Also noticed my passive alarm/ locks not working. Tried both fobs to lock unlock no luck. Tried both keys no luck.

Checked codes got BCM B2587 & B2592. Checked battery, fuses, relay, even took time to install LMC-5 while I was at it. Swapped batteries despite mine showing full charge. Nothing.

Current status: doors don't lock or unlock w either fob. Key in ignition full juice but silence as far as starter both keys. No blown fuses or relays. Haven't pulled ignition but not sure given the alarm/lock issue I'm not sure the lack of start isn't related to VATs or such

So after 8 hours of playing I'm looking at having it hauled to a dealer for $$$$repair. HELP
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Old May 19, 2019 | 01:25 PM
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I’d check BOTH battery cables at BOTH ends are clean and tight !!...go from there...means getting underneath the car !!
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Old May 19, 2019 | 01:53 PM
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Neither DTC would cause the issue. Don't know why you are having the FOB issue along with NO START.

How are you reading the DTCs. Clear ALL the DTCs. Attempt to crank and use the FOBs and BEFORE you turn the ignition off. Read the DTCs. If you have any messages in the DIC,, just press reset until they go away.. Post the DTCs that you see. ALL of them.

Bill

Last edited by Bill Curlee; May 19, 2019 at 01:54 PM.
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Old May 19, 2019 | 02:15 PM
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the only codes that come up after resets are the ones I mention above. I also have HVAC code 0361 but I’m aware I need to address the drivers side actuator.

I have inspected battery cables cables up top and as much as I can get my fat **** under the car in the driveway w a 3 ton jack / puck and bottle stands. A lift is not in the offering.

I will I’ll try the fobs before running the codes again but have done that a couple times. Just very coincidental that alarm and locks don’t work same time quit. And coincidentally just after the directional bulb blew.

Like to to narrow it down before dealers try to tell me its electrical and will take 450 hrs to diagnose while installing a starter for fun .... no offense to the trustworthy dealers out there.
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Old May 19, 2019 | 02:26 PM
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Hold down the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the FOB at the same time until the HORN TOOTS. It will take a little bit for them to sync. That is the FOB re-Sync procedure. Se what that does for you.

BC
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Old May 19, 2019 | 02:34 PM
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I had a similar issue that happen in a store parking lot several years ago. When I came out, nothing happened. No start, no nothing. Luckily, I remember reading on this forum about the lousy ignition switch contamination and key issue. So I clean my key and then the car cranked and started. Now I keep my key extremely clean and also 2X a year spray the ignition switch with electrical cleaner. I also remove all stuff from my key chain except the Fob, car key, and house key. JM.02 worth.
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Old May 19, 2019 | 02:45 PM
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Since you have checked battery cable connections and confident that your battery is fully charged, I would first check your TDR relay located above the BCM in the passenger footwell area and verify if it is being energized when you turn the key to start your car. If the TDR is being energized and car will not crank over you have a starter solenoid that is going south. If the TDR is not being energized then you may have a clutch depressed safety switch if you have a M6, or a Park/Neutral safety switch problem if automatic. What is your security light doing?, it should come on and then turn off before you turn the key to the start position, and finally you may be experiencing problems with burnt ignition switch contacts causing problems. Don't take your car to the stealership, as there are some very knowledgeable forum members here, two of them have already responded to your post.
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Old May 19, 2019 | 04:08 PM
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Thank you for your help thus far. The security light does go out. Checked the relay above the BCM also. I only have the grey relay. That seems to indicate I have an early 98 or that a recall item may have taken place.
Both keys and fobs did not work but I haven’t pulled the ignition switch yet. I travel during the week so that will be next weeks project. Won’t take to dealer until I’ve exhausted all my capabilities without a lift or time runs out given our limited summer here in CNY.
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Old May 19, 2019 | 05:03 PM
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Was able to resynch one fob. Other might be dead battery. Thanks for heads up there. I had forgotten how to do that.
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Old May 19, 2019 | 07:55 PM
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So, Now that the FOB works we can continue.
mmartinez is SPOT ON!! Couldn't have said it better if I said it my self!!

Here is your TDR/starter safety circuit. EVERY C5 has this exact same circuit! You have that TDR relay on the fire wall above the BCM. NO RECALL ever removes it!! It has FOUR wires: RED, PURPLE, yellow and yellow black stripe.

The red is hot all the time, Purple goes to the solenoid, yellow is hot in CRANK/START and yellow black stripe is the GROUND that the BCM driver applies to allow the relay to energize when all safety. security conditions are met and the BCM is happy! You can actually ground the yellow /black wire and take the BCM security requirements out of the game temporarily

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Old May 19, 2019 | 08:05 PM
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WARNING WARNING!!! The car MUST be in Neutral/Park and the brake MUST BE SET, wheels chocked! If you do this procedure and the car is in gear, it will move forward or rearward!!!!!!!!

NOTE! You can remove the TDR relay and if you jumper the RED and PURPLE wire terminals together, the starter solenoid SHOULD energize and the starter should crank the engine!

WARNING WARNING!!! The car MUST be in Neutral/Park and the brake MUST BE SET, wheels chocked! If you do this procedure and the car is in gear, it will move forward or rearward!!!!!!

I hold NO responsibility if you do this wrong!
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Old May 20, 2019 | 12:50 PM
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I will check the red input and the purple output this coming weekend. I'm new to a multi-meter so any help with what the dial should be set at helps.
I have ordered a new ignition switch figuring I can clean the other one while its out and have a spare. It felt a little sloppy to me and I need to get into the dash for that HVAC actuator any way.
How common is the TDR relay to pick up at either the local NAPA/Autozone/etc... or dealership? I want to systematically run this through from key to starter in one shot this weekend ... I want to drive !!!!
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Old May 20, 2019 | 01:29 PM
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The relay is a common one at autozone. Your OEM relay might be a FOUR pin and the replacement one will have SIX pins. No big deal. It will function properly with the extra pins.


Google Basic Multimeter training or How to use a multimeter for beginners. There are some excellent meter useage training vids out there Too many to post!
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Old May 20, 2019 | 05:45 PM
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Thanks Bill.
My relay is a 4 prong so it’s good to know there’s no harm/no foul w a 6 pin.

And just after i sent sent my message about a multimeter I though.... I go online for almost everything why no mm advice. Presto !

Thanks again these forum are great for learning
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Old May 25, 2019 | 10:20 PM
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Default Finally up n running

The crazy 2 weekend run thru is finally over. Culprit was the TDR relay. $30 at NAPA and about 5 minutes time and she fire right up. Has run flawlessly for 2 days now.
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Old May 26, 2019 | 10:01 AM
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Good to hear it was just the TDR, enjoy the ride!!
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