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I'm actively shopping for a manual C5 targa, and am doing a ton of research. I'd like to ask for advice on which year to purchase. Ideally I'd get a 2004, thought I'm interested in the 2000+ as well, especially given they're often at a better price point. I understand the 2004 had a significant shock upgrade. I wonder if a well priced older C5 received an aftermarket shock upgrade would be even better than the 2004? Then there is the issue with breaking valve springs, oil burners, etc.
I would stick with 03-04 if possible. End of the run, best electronics, etc.
Shocks were not that great to begin with and worth replacing on any of them. A set of DRM Bilsteins are around $450 and transform the car.
good luck with your search!
99' the HUD was available, pretty cool feature. We have a 97 which is really tight fit and finish since first year, but the 2003 anniversary vert is really nice as well HUD is nice. I think they are all good. If your going to track it, Z06 better starting point.
97-2000 cars have a VAST amount of NO LONGER SUPORTED PARTS! NO LONGER carried new from GM OR the parts stores. USED ONLY and some are $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.
IMHO, Ide stick with 2001+ C5s
Last edited by Bill Curlee; May 20, 2019 at 03:26 PM.
Been doing the same browsing, seems 2001 and up is broadly best spot. Some of this could be slightly off so as always do your own homework.
avoid some of the electrical issues and discontinued parts of earlier cars
2001+ have ls6 intake
2001+ got the upgraded torque tube like Z(maybe this was only manual cars)
2001 some had oil burning but seemed a little over blown
2002-2003 had some valve spring issues, seems mostly late 02-early 03 highest risk but easy to swap springs(think only Z)
Late 03 and 04 got the new fuel system and have to drop tanks to get to the pump so may want to avoid that
To me sweet spot is the 02-03 cars, swapping springs is not hard(since you want targa though dont think you have to worry about this). I have seen deals on 99 and 2000s I would have still jumped on if I was ready to buy, especially FRC being more of a rare car. Think some of these are bigger issues if you dont do your own wrenching.
If you want a 2004 be mindful of the fuel tank cross over issue that can cost you $4000+ to fix. The cars at risk are VIN #s 45110258 to 45125500. Some have been fixed by GM and others by the owners.
Been doing the same browsing, seems 2001 and up is broadly best spot. Some of this could be slightly off so as always do your own homework.
avoid some of the electrical issues and discontinued parts of earlier cars
2001+ have ls6 intake
2001+ got the upgraded torque tube like Z(maybe this was only manual cars)
2001 some had oil burning but seemed a little over blown
2002-2003 had some valve spring issues, seems mostly late 02-early 03 highest risk but easy to swap springs(think only Z)
Late 03 and 04 got the new fuel system and have to drop tanks to get to the pump so may want to avoid that
To me sweet spot is the 02-03 cars, swapping springs is not hard(since you want targa though dont think you have to worry about this). I have seen deals on 99 and 2000s I would have still jumped on if I was ready to buy, especially FRC being more of a rare car. Think some of these are bigger issues if you dont do your own wrenching.
I agree. The early 2003 models had the fuel filter outside the gas tank. Much easier to replace!
If you want a 2004 be mindful of the fuel tank cross over issue that can cost you $4000+ to fix. The cars at risk are VIN #s 45110258 to 45125500. Some have been fixed by GM and others by the owners.
Good hunting for your avatar.
How do you know if the fix has been done or not? And what is the symptom of the problem?
If GM did the work, the dealer has a record for the VIN number. If the owner/dealer does not have proof it was done by a 3rd party, consider it not done and you roll the dice if it falls within the VIN numbers previously described. Symptoms, the gas will leak at the crossover joint between the two tanks. No doubt you will smell the issue.
Suggestion. If the car falls within the VIN numbers, use that as a negotiating tool. My good friend walked away from a used car dealer that would not come down on the price that the VIN number was suspect. The car dealer would not call the previous owner to verify one way or the other. Red flags all over.
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