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Old May 27, 2019 | 03:15 PM
  #1  
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Default Code 1255

Got the pull key, wait 10 seconds......

Pulled codes, lots of history

Reset

Again got the pull key, wait 10 secopnds

Codes

U1096 H
U1064 H
U1016 H

U1255 C

Let car sit

Pull key, wait 10 seconds

Reset Codes

Restart

Only Code U1255C

Re-start no message --runs great

Cleaned the grounds problem continues.

Consistantly runs great after restarting after 10 seconds

I am assuming ECBM???

Any comments or suggestions welcome

Last edited by yaknow; May 27, 2019 at 03:23 PM.
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Old May 28, 2019 | 12:07 AM
  #2  
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Default ?

Did you mean c1225?
This is my code I pulled yesterday.

Stay at in touch. Not sure what the options are to fix this issue.
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Old May 28, 2019 | 08:06 AM
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yes, sorry was in a hurry writing the post
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Old May 28, 2019 | 11:21 AM
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WHAT YEAR C5??? Always post the year car!!

C1255 is an internal EBTCM microprocessor failure. NOT a good DTC to have. HOWEVER, there are a couple of things that you can do to figure out if something EXTERNALY is causing the DTC to happen . One thing is POWER & GROUND

The EBTCM must have proper battery power and module chassis ground.

The EBTCM has a few power inputs and they all must be functioning at FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE. The very first thing that you should do is fully test the battery and charging system.

Then use a DC Voltmeter and insure that you have full battery voltage on all of the fuses on top of the fuse at the fuse test points to chassis ground.

Then check the module ground pins to chassis ground. Should be zero ohms.

If you have power and ground and still get the 1255 DTC, you need a new EBTCM.

Here are two EBTCM Schematics since we don't know if you have an early C5 97-2000 or late model C5 2001+

Late 98 -2000 EBTCM:



2001-2004 EBTCM:



Bill



Bill
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Old May 28, 2019 | 09:36 PM
  #5  
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Default Code c1255

thanks Bill

i have 2000 c5. This started a couple years ago. I used a battery tender to charge my battery during the winter. In the spring, must’ve been 2016, I had these codes.

I have been super super busy building a home and trying to married, so I let this go.

I did read another post saying this happened to him too after using a battery tender. I won’t be doing that again.

I will take up your advice and check on things.

Sad part, I saw a eBay, someone is trying to get $3250 for this part.
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Old May 28, 2019 | 09:54 PM
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Take the battery to the autoparts store and have them FULLY TEST it..
Bill
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Old May 28, 2019 | 10:40 PM
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Thanks Bill, I will check everything out ASAP, thanks again
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Old May 29, 2019 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by yaknow
thanks bill, i will check everything out asap, thanks again
cool!
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Old May 29, 2019 | 04:30 PM
  #9  
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Default Fix

Has anyone saved their ECBM after the c1225 code ?

Everything I am reading says it is the kiss of death.
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Old May 29, 2019 | 07:46 PM
  #10  
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If its caused b y something externally, it isn't!! Fix what is causing it to pop a 1255 If the processor is bad, well, then YES it screwed! Many things can cause the processor to indicate bad Like power or ground to the module,

Bill
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Old May 29, 2019 | 11:56 PM
  #11  
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Default

Thanks Bill

i did check the ground point. The ground box looks ok, but the single ground below has some white corrosion. I will clean that up.

I found a sight selling ECBM. Does anyone know if this part number will work # 09367071. That site said it replaces
09356961 whick is my part number.

Thanks.
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Old May 31, 2019 | 11:28 PM
  #12  
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I pulled apart the ped ground or the black conjunction box near the abs system. The ground point near the front headlight driver’s side. Clean as a whistle. I put back together with some di- electric grease. Used some sandpaper to clean up the other wire connector and the ped connector too.

I looked at the other ground point on the other. Looked good to. I did not break open the ped connector. I tested ground with a volt meter and all reads looked good. 0 to .3 readings. Readings from block to negative battery all good. 12.6 volts at the battery after sitting all week.

Still have code c1255. I am getting worried this might cost a lot of money.
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Old Jun 1, 2019 | 03:33 PM
  #13  
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Nothing to lose Take the EBTCM off the BPMV and see if there is any damaged connections / cold solder joints or corrosion inside the unit. There is a circuit board with components that can be serviced inside the unit. Most of the problems with our EBTCMs are bad solder joints.

Bill
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Old Jun 1, 2019 | 04:03 PM
  #14  
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Before you go any further did you use a voltmeter to actually measure the voltage at the fuses to see if there is proper power to make the EBTCM function properly?
. If you have proper power and ground and the module doesn't work, then it a bad module. Take it apart and have a look see inside.

Is 1255 the ONLY DTC that is showing in the DIC?? Are there any other DTCs in other modules?

BC
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Old Jun 1, 2019 | 06:39 PM
  #15  
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Default

Thanks everyone.
I will Test the fuses. I did pull them. That was the first thing I did. Most of them seemed like they had heat discoloration or could it just be 19 years.

I was going to pull the EBCM connector and check it for corrosion.

Ya, then it will be break open the ECBM.

Thanks.
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Old Jun 1, 2019 | 06:42 PM
  #16  
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I did start the car last night. Only code was C1255.
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 11:44 PM
  #17  
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Default Hi

Hi
thanks for all your help

I think a need to find a new/used abs module. I have about 32,000 miles on my car, 2000 C5. Is there any risk to replace my module with high mileage unit?

Anybody have a good source?

Thanks
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