Clutch Issues on Z06
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 100
Likes: 1
Clutch Issues on Z06
Picked up a 03 Z and have driven it 100 miles. The car is extremely clean with 22k miles. Past owner said he never drove it hard. My clutch pedal started staying on the floor, no other issues noted. I tried the Ranger method of replacing fluid, but had to drive the car around the block to see any change in the fluid. Did this maybe 10 times. Fluid was never black, but dirty. Decided to to take the car to a shop and have fluid changed. He felt the slave cylinder may be bad and sent me to AAMCO for major surgery. With no leaks or drips, they installed a Lingenfelter spring and bled the system. $400.00 later I drive away, get to a red light and with the clutch all the way down, the car wants to move forward. I take it out of gear & then can’t get it back in gear. This happens all the way home. The clutch disengages millimeters from the floor now. Then had difficulty shifting into any gear. I recently moved hare & do not have a trusted mechanic. Any ideas?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 100
Likes: 1
I did call them. They are booked for the next 6 weeks. The Chevy dealer & one other shop simply wanted to do it all, clutch package, slave, master etc. $3,000.00 estimate. I guess my next step is to replace the master & see if that helps. One strange thing, when I was doing the Ranger approach to the fluid, the fluid would only change color if I drove the car around. Pumping 20-30 times did not seem to cycle the fluid.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 363
From: Massillon Ohio
I did call them. They are booked for the next 6 weeks. The Chevy dealer & one other shop simply wanted to do it all, clutch package, slave, master etc. $3,000.00 estimate. I guess my next step is to replace the master & see if that helps. One strange thing, when I was doing the Ranger approach to the fluid, the fluid would only change color if I drove the car around. Pumping 20-30 times did not seem to cycle the fluid.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,844
Likes: 375
From: San Jose, CA
In NC, I would consider a $3000 quote to be a bit too high.
Stock clutch kit, plus new OEM couplers (mileage is too low to replace bearings in my opinion), will be somewhere in the $800ish range, I believe. Add a speed bleeder (cheap). I expect labor in NC to be around $1500 to do it all. That's just my 2c.
I would not rule out wanting an entirely new clutch, though at first blush this does not sound to me like your clutch is worn. I agree with the others. I'd check for fluid leaks, I'd check the master cylinder for correct operation.
FWIW the ranger method is ... not the most effective solution.
Stock clutch kit, plus new OEM couplers (mileage is too low to replace bearings in my opinion), will be somewhere in the $800ish range, I believe. Add a speed bleeder (cheap). I expect labor in NC to be around $1500 to do it all. That's just my 2c.
I would not rule out wanting an entirely new clutch, though at first blush this does not sound to me like your clutch is worn. I agree with the others. I'd check for fluid leaks, I'd check the master cylinder for correct operation.
FWIW the ranger method is ... not the most effective solution.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,297
Likes: 156
From: Clayton New Jersey
I have an 01 Z06 with 47k on it. During spirited driving the clutch pedal will fade and start engaging just off the floor. I did have it checked and I was told it's common with the C5 Z06. In order to fix it you will need to upgrade your clutch. I did the ranger method and changed my fluid. I used Pentosin Dot 4. The dot 4 did improve my clutch pedal.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,258
Likes: 544
From: Appleton WI
If you have no external leaks and not losing fluid, you likely have an internal leak in the master cylinder. A master cylinder replacement is fairly straightforward if replacing with an OEM unit and isn't very expensive. If installing a master cylinder, such as a TICK, your skills and patience will be tested but can be done with some extra time.
In either case, bench bleed prior to installation or gravity bleed after install and before connecting to the slave cylinder. Bench bleed is a one person job, gravity bleed is two unless you want to keep crawling out from under the car. The trick is not to let the reservoir get too low. Gravity bleed reduces risk of spilling contents on paint etc. (My preference)
In either case, bench bleed prior to installation or gravity bleed after install and before connecting to the slave cylinder. Bench bleed is a one person job, gravity bleed is two unless you want to keep crawling out from under the car. The trick is not to let the reservoir get too low. Gravity bleed reduces risk of spilling contents on paint etc. (My preference)
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 100
Likes: 1
Great info, I picked up a GM master cylinder and will attempt this repair next. I considered the Tick, but may not have the patience for it. If I need the slave, I will go to the Tick with remote bleeder.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 452
Likes: 50
I just dealt with the exact problem you described...
It was a failing master cylinder.
FYI, you have to remove the drivers side front wheel-well liner. You will need the disconnect tool also. I have seen people damage the slave cylinder end of the connection when using a screwdriver to discount the line.
...good luck
It was a failing master cylinder.
FYI, you have to remove the drivers side front wheel-well liner. You will need the disconnect tool also. I have seen people damage the slave cylinder end of the connection when using a screwdriver to discount the line.
...good luck
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 100
Likes: 1
Just a follow up. The master cylinder was replaced and the clutch is working as new again. For people with this similar pedal issue, don’t get rushed into the clutch replacement until you actually need it.
