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Well I’ll start off by saying I bought a 1999 FRC ( wrecked hit a deer on the passenger side). When I bought the car it was running. The problem I’m facing at the moment is the car will crank bit will not start and I have 0 fuel pressure at the fuel rail. I have ran through the fuel pump relay check ....Grounds look good and put a jumper on pins 87 and 30...... I can hear the pump running but I’m still not getting any pressure at the fuel rail . I have also changed the fuel filter and cleaned 3 splice blocks in the engine bay plus the ground strap to the block and fuel pump. At this point I’m about to pull the trigger on a new fuel pump unless some has some more ideas on trouble shooting. As of right now the only reoccurring codes on the car are (B0026 H C and C1234 H C).
It sounds like you covered the “low hanging fruit”. How much fuel do you have? If you have a half tank or less, did you validate that you’re getting proper fuel transfer from the secondary to primary fuel tank (where the fuel pump is)?
Thanks for the response and the add information. The car currently has 1/2 tank of gas right now ( at least the gauge indicates it has 1/2 tank). I guess the question now is do I go head fill the car all the way up just to verify that the fuel pump is good/bad and that the secondary is fubared?
I believe that would be a good next step to at least answer the question. It'll certainly provide clarity as to where your focus should be. You shouldn't have to fill it up all the way to test the theory. Even a few gallons will do the trick
Last edited by wscott62893; Jun 27, 2019 at 02:36 PM.
You basically covered the things that may be the issue...have you previously used the fuel pressure gauge successfully on the car??...sometimes you have to unscrew the schrader valve core on the fuel rail depending on the pressure gauge’s hose...if you’ve never done a voltage drop check on the fuel pump circuit you can apply 12 volts and a ground directly to the pump and if you get yourself an amp clamp from HF you can clamp it around either the power or ground wire and see how many amps it is drawing...you can even use the amp meter function of your DVOM...pump should be drawing less than 10 amps so you shouldn’t blow the DVOM’s fuse...a good pump will be drawing roughly around 5-6 amps...I prefer using a scope...I can directly read the pressure and RPM....even if I think it may be the pump I still have to check...for me it’s “test don’t guess” !!!
Well I checked the Amp draw on the fuel pump it was reading (2.89 amps) so I pulled the pump. The screen had collapsed and was sucked into the pump. I cleaned all the crud out of the pump and I’m reading (5.68 amps) and the car is back to running. I really appreciate the videos you are doing they helped out a lot and saved some money. I will be buying a new fuel pump module in the future racetronix maybe. I do have another question related to the air intake temperature sensor. Well my air intake is not attached to anything as the wires are hanging around the fuse box.
Great news !!....the IAT sensor wire colors are TAN and PURPLE !!...are those the wire colors in the picture ??...you would have some driveability issues and the MIL light on...a P0113 would be seen !!
Well I checked the Amp draw on the fuel pump it was reading (2.89 amps) so I pulled the pump. The screen had collapsed and was sucked into the pump. I cleaned all the crud out of the pump and I’m reading (5.68 amps) and the car is back to running. I really appreciate the videos you are doing they helped out a lot and saved some money. I will be buying a new fuel pump module in the future racetronix maybe. I do have another question related to the air intake temperature sensor. Well my air intake is not attached to anything as the wires are hanging around the fuse box.
Great news !!....the IAT sensor wire colors are TAN and PURPLE !!...are those the wire colors in the picture ??...you would have some driveability issues and the MIL light on...a P0113 would be seen !!
Well when I cleaned the grounding splice block under the battery I found these two wires. They are both blue I traced them back to the IAT sensor. I am getting the p1111 and p0113 code and you are right the engine runs ruff. So I guess my next question is how do I hook this thing back up. I’m guessing that it’s got to hook up somewhere in the fuse box? Thanks again for the electrical knowledge on the c5.
Both of those wires
if they are the IAT sensor wires come from the PCM...the wires are connected to the IAT sensor !!...take a picture of your IAT and post it !!...it should look like this !!..,I would not hook those wires up to the sensor unless you are 100% sure that they come from the appropriate PCM pins...8 and 21...you should see 5 volts key ON if you use a multimeter on the TAN wire !!...OEM wiring is not the same color in a wiring loom !!...you will have to trace this wiring back to somewhere !!
Well when I cleaned the grounding splice block under the battery I found these two wires. They are both blue I traced them back to the IAT sensor. I am getting the p1111 and p0113 code and you are right the engine runs ruff. So I guess my next question is how do I hook this thing back up. I’m guessing that it’s got to hook up somewhere in the fuse box? Thanks again for the electrical knowledge on the c5.
So I had to remove 12lbs of black tape the blue wires are spliced in two the purple and tan. Both of the purple and tan wires are bad shape.
I would suggest replacing the bad wiring...if your soldering skills are OK I would suggest joining the wiring in this fashion...and putting some resin filled shrink tubing over the soldered section !!...also the OEM connector is usually a Weatherpack connector...yours does not use that type...in the picture the blue bellows looking thing is that type of connector !!
I would suggest replacing the bad wiring...if your soldering skills are OK I would suggest joining the wiring in this fashion...and putting some resin filled shrink tubing over the soldered section !!
I will point out I for got to hook the sensor back up so we will see if I get a code.
Zero fuel pressure
