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Old Jul 15, 2019 | 08:42 PM
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Default Strange AC issue

Drive the Z today after sitting for about 2 months. The AC would switch off at idle, but a slight rev and it would kick in as long as I keep it above idle. I sat in the driveway with the RPM at 1000 and it blew nice cold air, but shut off as soon as it dropped back to 800-850 idle. It doesnt just stop blowing cold (does that too), but the light on the panel goes out as well.

2002 Z06, ~50k miles, usually driven about once a week. Mods are a mild cam, full exhaust and CAI. All mods have been on for a while with no issues until today. Couldnt find what I was looking for in the search so im hoping someone can shed some light on this. I have not checked for codes yet. Ill try and get to that in the morning.
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Old Jul 15, 2019 | 09:39 PM
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Was the battery low from sitting 2 months? Did you check the battery voltage at idle when this was occurring? Just starting with the basics. You description sounds like the alternator had to get the power up for the AC to operate - the clutch coil needs juice to engage and stay engaged.

Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Jul 15, 2019 at 09:42 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2019 | 09:44 PM
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It sounds like you may need a “recharge” of the refrigerant...PCM is looking for a certain pressure via a pressure “sensor” and not a switch...putting it in simple terms and if it doesn’t see it...”no workie”...LOL !!!...Revving the engine increases that pressure !!...don’t do that DIY recharge thing...take it to a pro that has the right equipment and knowledge !!

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Old Jul 15, 2019 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Ramberger
Was the battery low from sitting 2 months? Did you check the battery voltage at idle when this was occurring? Just starting with the basics. You description sounds like the alternator had to get the power up for the AC to operate - the clutch coil needs juice to engage and stay engaged.
It usually sits on a battery tender. I did have it off for a few weeks, but had it charging for the last several days. I did not check the voltage, but it did not feel like a weak battery. I will check that tomorrow though to be sure.
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Old Jul 15, 2019 | 09:50 PM
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C5, I wasn't thinking pressure because with it disengaged I wasn't thinking it would raise the pressure to kick it in. But that's interesting and noted! Thanks for the insight.
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Old Jul 15, 2019 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Ramberger
C5, I wasn't thinking pressure because with it disengaged I wasn't thinking it would raise the pressure to kick it in. But that's interesting and noted! Thanks for the insight.
Ed, no problem...you probably just had a brain fart...I get them quite frequently these days...LOL !!
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Old Jul 15, 2019 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
It sounds like you may need a “recharge” of the refrigerant...PCM is looking for a certain pressure via a pressure “sensor” and not a switch...putting it in simple terms and if it doesn’t see it...”no workie”...LOL !!!...Revving the engine increases that pressure !!...don’t do that DIY recharge thing...take it to a pro that has the right equipment and knowledge !!
Thank you sir, for the info!
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Old Jul 16, 2019 | 12:24 AM
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Moved to C5 Tech.
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Old Jul 16, 2019 | 12:24 PM
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It is either a low pressure issue or a tuning issue.

Have the a/c tested first.. That will be a quick idea of why it isn't working. If the test comes back good and it is not low on pressure, then your tuner will need to adjust some tables in the computer to make it work. I doubt the cam is large enough in your car to mess with the idle though, but it is possible.
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Old Jul 16, 2019 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mykream
It is either a low pressure issue or a tuning issue.

Have the a/c tested first.. That will be a quick idea of why it isn't working. If the test comes back good and it is not low on pressure, then your tuner will need to adjust some tables in the computer to make it work. I doubt the cam is large enough in your car to mess with the idle though, but it is possible.
There is some chop to it, but not too aggressive. It's been running that way for more than a year now without issues. Hopefully just a charge.
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Old Jul 16, 2019 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Vette-kid
There is some chop to it, but not too aggressive. It's been running that way for more than a year now without issues. Hopefully just a charge.
Okay then yeah, definitely going to be a charge issue
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Old Jul 17, 2019 | 10:15 PM
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So what happened?
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Old Jul 18, 2019 | 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed Ramberger
So what happened?
Life happened. Haven't had a chance to do anything else yet. Hopefully this afternoon I can get at it.
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Old Jul 18, 2019 | 07:50 AM
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OP - are you saying that the compressor kicks-off at idle - then kicks-on once you raise the revs a bit?

If so, it is NOT a pressure issue. The only way to raise pressure in the system (on the high side) or lower it (on the low side) is for the compressor to be running. Simply bumping the engine revs (with the compressor not running) does NOTHING to increase/decrease pressure in the a/c system.
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Old Jul 18, 2019 | 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 4XLR8N
OP - are you saying that the compressor kicks-off at idle - then kicks-on once you raise the revs a bit?

If so, it is NOT a pressure issue. The only way to raise pressure in the system (on the high side) or lower it (on the low side) is for the compressor to be running. Simply bumping the engine revs (with the compressor not running) does NOTHING to increase/decrease pressure in the a/c system.
That is the way I read it in the original description. The way it appeared to read to me is that the battery was low, and at idle the AC cut out and only came on with REVs. That's why I went with battery charge and alternator output under load at idle in my post. My initial thought was charge battery completely to start since we know it's low. C5Diag said it was pressure, and I am still wondering how a disconnected clutch can build pressure on revs so that the pressure switch tells the computer it's ok to engage. Since we learn every day, and C5 certainly works on these more than I do, I am very open to learning how pressure caused it. I really wanted to hear the resolution.
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Old Jul 18, 2019 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 4XLR8N
OP - are you saying that the compressor kicks-off at idle - then kicks-on once you raise the revs a bit?

If so, it is NOT a pressure issue. The only way to raise pressure in the system (on the high side) or lower it (on the low side) is for the compressor to be running. Simply bumping the engine revs (with the compressor not running) does NOTHING to increase/decrease pressure in the a/c system.
That is exactly what I'm saying.

I hope to trouble shot a bit this afternoon and I'll report back. I'll check battery and codes first. Then I'll check pressure just to see what it's at. If I can't narrow it down there then it's likely of to a pro.
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Old Jul 18, 2019 | 09:08 AM
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I tend to agree with Ed here, at least as a place to start. If the battery is low, it is possible that at idle there isn't enough voltage to engage the compressor clutch. Once you bump the revs a little, the alternator output goes up and might be bringing system voltage up just enough so that the compressor engages. Said another way, the a/c system is trying to engage the compressor at idle, but it won't engage due to insufficient available voltage...bumping the revs increases available voltage due to higher alternator output.

I would check system voltage at idle then again at slightly higher rpm (when compressor engages) and see if there is any significant difference (increase) in system voltage.

Last edited by 4XLR8N; Jul 18, 2019 at 09:09 AM.
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Old Jul 18, 2019 | 09:36 AM
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This is tuning, I'd almost bet on it. I had the exact same problem with my car when I installed the cam and had it tuned

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...m-stumped.html

That fixed it for me.
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Old Jul 18, 2019 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by DetroitPlac
This is tuning, I'd almost bet on it. I had the exact same problem with my car when I installed the cam and had it tuned

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...m-stumped.html

That fixed it for me.
Cam had been in and running fine for about a year. Probably close to 2k miles. Not a lot admittedly, but it ran fine.

If it's not the voltage or the pressure I can check with my tuner.
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Old Jul 18, 2019 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Vette-kid
That is exactly what I'm saying.

I hope to trouble shot a bit this afternoon and I'll report back. I'll check battery and codes first. Then I'll check pressure just to see what it's at. If I can't narrow it down there then it's likely of to a pro.
Although I agree that with the A/C compressor clutch disengaged revving the engine won't change the pressures, it wouldn't hurt to take a look at them.

You will need an A/C Manifold Gauges set. Doesn't have to be top-of-the-line and uber expensive. One from Harbor Freight would be fine, or get a free loaner from an auto parts store.

Although not essential, a Thermometer will give you a better idea of the A/C system health. You can get
<b>one of these</b> one of these
for around 5 bucks:


Pressures vary not only with the RPMs of the engine, as mentioned above, but with humidity and temperature. Don't add refrigerant blindly.

Check both pressures to have an idea of how things are. Take a look at this Post. It has detailed instructions to check/add refrigerant.

-These are the CliffsNotes:
Find the current ambient temperature and humidity. Then, using the chart below, determine your target values for:
  • High Pressure
  • Low Pressure and
  • Center Vent Temp.

Then take your readings. Make sure you take them with (otherwise readings will be affected):
  • Engine @ 2000 rpm
  • A/C in coldest setting
  • Fan at maximum speed
  • Both windows down
  • Thermometer in center air vent

When adding refrigerant, pay attention to both pressures, otherwise you might end up with the high side sky-high trying to get the low side to the chart's value.

Let us know your findings




Last edited by GCG; Jul 18, 2019 at 11:40 AM.
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