Untraceable Misfire- HELP
Hey everyone. I've posted in Corvette pages on FB and asked local car pages, this is my last ditch effort. I picked up an 01 Z51 a few weeks ago. Mod list:
- MP112 magnacharged
- green top Injectors
- Pacesetter LTs
- Pacesetter catless X-pipe
- Borla stinger rear section
- Vararam intake
- MSD coils
- Taylor 10.4 wires
- NGK Tr6 plugs
About 2 weeks ago I experienced a flashing engine light after a hard pull. The only code to come up was P0300 (random misfire.) After using a Tech2, cylinder 8 was the main culprit. We swapped coil 2 and 8, thinking it was the coil. After test driving, there was no misfire.
As I drive it to work every day, the engine light will occasionally come on and make the car run very rough/sluggish. However, even while driving occasionally, the light will shut off on it's own and smooth right back out. I havent had it happen while it's cold, it seems to only be when warm. Shutting the car off will sometimes resolve it, other times not. Sometimes sitting it off and turning it right back on makes the light come on if it wasnt prior.
I took out the plug wires to check the resistances on them and noticed the plugs were barely finger tight and could be wiggled. I put in a fresh set if NGK tr6s and took it for a test drive. Ran fine for 10 minutes, including a couple hard pulls. The light then came on and cylinders 2 and 7 were the only misfires with over 2,000 misfires each in a 10 minute drive. The other cylinders had zero. After getting home, I swapped coil 2 and 4 to see if the problem followed the coil. After swapping, this is what happened (see image.) Almost every cylinder was misfiring.
This tells me it is probably not the coil, as it seems to jump from cylinder to cylinder. I am desperate for help and have heard every possible cause from plugs to coils to crank sensors to cam sensors to blown out cam lobes. As I said, the p0300 is the ONLY code and sometimes it runs like a top. So to me, this says it should not be something as serious as those mentioned? A crank relearn was performed with no effect.
I am open to any suggestions.
Last edited by C5 Diag; Aug 4, 2019 at 06:53 AM.





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2) the second thing we found was that I had a few loose ground wires. Nothing serious but loose enough that on a hard pull (as you describe) with high RPM the wires would rattle enough to cause a misfire. We didnt know which word it was because we checked ALL of them and tightened each a bit. I suspect your issues are similar. THAT resolved my problem but we also changed all the coils after that happened as an added measure of reassurance again because the car had 76k miles on it.
Good luck,
C5Z06CE
Last edited by C5Z06CE; Aug 4, 2019 at 11:04 PM.
2) the second thing we found was that I had a few loose ground wires. Nothing serious but loose enough that on a hard pull (as you describe) with high RPM the wires would rattle enough to cause a misfire. We didnt know which word it was because we checked ALL of them and tightened each a bit. I suspect your issues are similar. THAT resolved my problem but we also changed all the coils after that happened as an added measure of reassurance again because the car had 76k miles on it.
Good luck,
C5Z06CE
I have also updated my profile.
Very basic but gives you a idea where to look, google c5 corvette ground locations, there's a few links with close up pics. google search works better than the forums search
Last edited by feeder82; Aug 5, 2019 at 10:47 AM.
Hey everyone. I've posted in Corvette pages on FB and asked local car pages, this is my last ditch effort. I picked up an 01 Z51 a few weeks ago. Mod list:
- MP112 magnacharged
- green top Injectors
- Pacesetter LTs
- Pacesetter catless X-pipe
- Borla stinger rear section
- Vararam intake
- MSD coils
- Taylor 10.4 wires
- NGK Tr6 plugs
About 2 weeks ago I experienced a flashing engine light after a hard pull. The only code to come up was P0300 (random misfire.) After using a Tech2, cylinder 8 was the main culprit. We swapped coil 2 and 8, thinking it was the coil. After test driving, there was no misfire.
As I drive it to work every day, the engine light will occasionally come on and make the car run very rough/sluggish. However, even while driving occasionally, the light will shut off on it's own and smooth right back out. I havent had it happen while it's cold, it seems to only be when warm. Shutting the car off will sometimes resolve it, other times not. Sometimes sitting it off and turning it right back on makes the light come on if it wasnt prior.
I took out the plug wires to check the resistances on them and noticed the plugs were barely finger tight and could be wiggled. I put in a fresh set if NGK tr6s and took it for a test drive. Ran fine for 10 minutes, including a couple hard pulls. The light then came on and cylinders 2 and 7 were the only misfires with over 2,000 misfires each in a 10 minute drive. The other cylinders had zero. After getting home, I swapped coil 2 and 4 to see if the problem followed the coil. After swapping, this is what happened (see image.) Almost every cylinder was misfiring.
This tells me it is probably not the coil, as it seems to jump from cylinder to cylinder. I am desperate for help and have heard every possible cause from plugs to coils to crank sensors to cam sensors to blown out cam lobes. As I said, the p0300 is the ONLY code and sometimes it runs like a top. So to me, this says it should not be something as serious as those mentioned? A crank relearn was performed with no effect.
I am open to any suggestions.
Last edited by StingrayRebel; Aug 5, 2019 at 11:17 PM.
Well i have been chasing misfires and nutty fuel trims..no codes. So i pulled my intake and i found this gaskets on all the ports were gone..the intake to the head was the seal..and here is after the new gaskets! Idel is smooth car now has power it was running rich..
Have you ever preformed a "crank angle re learn procedure" ?
Anytime you swap cams or have the engine apart this is a must !! Anyone with a TECH II or similar device can do this as well as HP Tuners or EFILIVE-----It's worth a try as this sensor makes sure the crank is at TDC----
Have you ever preformed a "crank angle re learn procedure" ?
Anytime you swap cams or have the engine apart this is a must !! Anyone with a TECH II or similar device can do this as well as HP Tuners or EFILIVE-----It's worth a try as this sensor makes sure the crank is at TDC----
PS the stock GM coils are very powerful and have been used even on boosted engines--A good trial and error would be to change back to the stock coils----














