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Hi its been a while since have been on here. I lost storage of my 2001 and since sitting with battery disconnected for a year and a half I have been having so many problems with dic codes.... Here is a rundown Starts and runs great windows will only work if I cycle the door locks many times. Air turns on at random times. dic will say no codes then show IPC 1 code HVAC 2 codes RDCM no com LDCM no com SCM no com …… Now I cycle locks several times and check dic here is the list of codes.....
IPC U 1160 H C
HVAC U 1160 H C B 0446 H C
RDCM U 1255 H U 1016 H U 1064 H U 1096 H
LDCM U 1255 H U 1016 H U 1064 H U 1096 H
SCM U 1255 H U 1016 H U 1064 H
Any advice or help to point me in the right direction would be so great, Thank you
Update Talked with Bill on the phone yesterday and he gave me some very good info. I went and found some male pin connectors for the push pull test. Both driver and passenger doors connectors had two that were spread and very loose (I thought YES) I used small pick to massage and tighten pin fit snug like the others but I hade the same issues and no communication to rdcm ldcm and scm .. I checked voltage to rdcm fuse under load by pressing window button it stayed at 12.6 volts. The scm is located under both seats? I will be checking them today!
With the "no comms" with the RDCM, LDCM and SCM I'd find Star Connector 2 (near the BCM)...the one with 4 wires and remove the bus bar or "comb" off the top of the connector. Clean the comb with some sandpaper or a small wire brush until it's sparkling clean...reinstall the comb and see what happens...just a thought !!
Even if it "looks" clean still take some sandpaper to it and also look at the connector terminals too...had a member a while back who had something similar but he said the comb "looked" OK...cleaned it and the no comms disappeared !!
Omg its a no code kind of day!!!!! Thank you both so much for your information and kindness of sharing it...….. It looked really clean but I used some 1200 grit sand paper and polished it anyway thinking well this wont work. Ha Ha well it did and all thanks to you both!
Super !!...and remember...don't always go by "looks"...LOL !!!...oh, and you may try some of this stuff to "ENHANCE" the conductivity of the connector...NOT DIELECTRIC GREASE !!!
Well I spoke too soon! no codes on the test drive windows worked well, shut it off went and posted my last post changed out of my sweaty clothes to head to car wash and same no com to ldcm rdcm and scm I cycled door locks and windows worked and I cleared all codes. Drove to car wash and got her all clean started her up and same issues. This time I drove about a mile tried window without touching door locks and they worked the rest of the way home. I also had turn signals make the clicking noise but no flashing green arrow. Pushed the and I flashers and had the lighted green arrows. but not with turn signals.
As soon as the issues start,,,,,,,,,,, WITHOUT turning the ignition off,,,,,,,,, clear any messages in the DIC by pressing and HOLDING the reset button. Once the messages go away, READ THE DTCs and post up what you see.
Something in the LDCM, RDCM and SCM is still causing the NO COMM issues. Check that SCM connector and wiring.
You can pop the top off the 4 wire star serial data connector and use a small jumper wire/s and connect just the LDCM and RDCM or SCM and one of the DCM and see if you can figure out what module is causing the data line corruption. Kinsd of a process of elimination test.
I have actually removed the tops of both and jumped just the BCM and the PCM serial data wires together and the car will start and run just fine.
As C5 Diag would say, Grab an oscilloscope and read the serial data line. :-) I know most people don't have access to a scope but, if you do, that is the sure fire way to see what is causing the issue.
Lol no scope but I will try the jumper wire on each and try to narrow it down... I have to run here in a bit I will post results when I get back. Again thank you Bill
I'm assuming the car is running normally but if there was power or a ground on the serial data line the car would "usually" just start and stall and you will have all no comms and the scan tool will not be able to talk to anyone !!... With only "NO COMMS" I would just check power and grounds to each of the 3 modules but since there are 3 involved let me check later tonight if there is a power or ground that are common to all modules. Previously Bill had mentioned about the scope so you can remove the comb again and with your voltmeter probe each of the pins and see if you have 12 volts there...I seriously doubt you do...to see the 0-7 volt square wave that the serial data line produces you'll need a scope...with a volt meter you'll see maybe .02 to .03 volts and it will jump around with the key on and the modules talking...did you clean the connector end of the Star Connector ??...you really need a terminal cleaning kit which are just very thin files that you would clean the terminal connectors with.
Yes the car runs and drives as new...… I tried the jumper wire to isolate the module that is causing the issue and each time it is the same no com messages on all three. I used volt meter and got 1-2v on each turned the key on and same exept the purple wire was bouncing all over. I do not have terminal cleaning kit but did pick up some contact cleaning spray. Every time I try to clear the U 1160 code the air turns on and makes noise like the actuator door is moving open and shut then I get a out of range code as well. Is that normal? My better half has plans for us for dinner with friends so I will be back tomorrow. Have a good evening guys.
Last edited by paint-tech; Aug 8, 2019 at 05:18 PM.
Yes the car runs and drives as new...… I tried the jumper wire to isolate the module that is causing the issue and each time it is the same no com messages on all three. I used volt meter and got 1-2v on each turned the key on and same exept the purple wire was bouncing all over. I do not have terminal cleaning kit but did pick up some contact cleaning spray. Every time I try to clear the U 1160 code the air turns on and makes noise like the actuator door is moving open and shut then I get a out of range code as well. Is that normal? My better half has plans for us for dinner with friends so I will be back tomorrow. Have a good evening guys.
The purple wire is your data wire...with the voltmeter it will dance around like that when modules are talking. With a scope it will look like the picture above. Will research some more !!
Help!
