Hello, just trying to get an idea of what to expect here so I have a 1999 Corvette and here's what will be done to it: headers, catless x-pipe, muffler delete, tsp 228r cam, and a cai, along with a tune of course. My guesses I'll be around 420 rwhp or so but my question is will my stock A4 transmission hold up? This is a street car I will not be going to the drag strip with it just some roll racing here and there in Mexico. Thank you very much. Car had 120,000 on it but the trans was rebuilt 15,000 ago.

 

a good tune will help the trans life a bunch !!!!

 

Too many variables to know how long it will hold up. Depends on how many miles are on the car, what shape the trans is in now and how you drive it. I can't imagine that you'd spend the cash for the upgrades and not get on it hard now and then. Drive it, enjoy it and have the trans rebuilt when it fails. That's the best info you're likely to get.

 

I think that is a rather large cam for an auto without a higher stall converter. I also don't think you'll hit 420rwhp without 243 heads, my guess is more like an honest 380rwhp.
As far as the trans, maybe get a nice flush and new filter again? Possibly a small trans cooler hooked in to the radiator.

Problems with the 4L60e that are usually replaced with heavier duty Sonnax units:
-The forward piston accumulator seals swell up from heat which blocks trans fluid to the 3rd and 4th clutch packs, loosing those gears
-The reaction shell where the spline shaft goes in shears off the splines, loosing all forward gears due to a thin wall design, and non-hardened splines from GM
-More rare, there are instances where the metal check ball(s) in the valve body bore themselves into their check-chambers getting stuck, blocking all fluid flow, and sometimes imploding various parts

 

Very helpful thank you. For changing the fluid and filter I can't find a good video explaining how to do it or a good description could you point me in the right way?

 

Depends on re build, OEM, after market parts seals questionable, go until it decides to let go
good luck

 

If your budget allows, I would go ahead and just build the transmission now. TSP states on their 228r product page, "The 228R camshaft is large enough that we recommend a larger than stock stall converter in automatic cars. Tuning will also be required in both automatic & manual applications."

So you may as well bite the bullet now to install a stall converter for the best possible performance. Don't forget a transmission cooler with a stall!

-Ryan

 

You'll need a higher stall converter plus I'd recommend a Transgo shift kit and proper tuning. The shift kit alone will greatly increase the life of the trans. I put a Transgo kit in my 96 SS at 18k miles and after 100k miles in a 4200lb car with 400hp the trans never had any problems.

Steve

 

Does the trans have to be pulled for that? The shift kit that is

 

Haven't done one on the C5, but if you can pull the pan off, you can install the kit, it's mostly valve body upgrades.

Steve

 

I don't have a link, but I'm sure it wouldnt be too bad. You're just gunna have to get the car up decently high and level to make the sure the trans fluid level is correct.

To be honest, I dont really like high-stall converters (previous set up), so if I wanted 400 to 420 rwhp, I'd do a smaller cam on stock stall. Probably a 212/218 or 220/220 duration cam max with 243 heads (milled and/or ported would be ideal), headers, high flow cats, and aftermarket high flow intake manifold/larger throttle body. If you do all the above sans the intake manifold/throttle body, you will probably still hit an honest 380 to 390 rwhp, but it will be a better balanced set up.

It would cost more in the long run, but more driveable with still being quite fast. Doing better heads allows you to go with a smaller, more driveable cam on a stock stall making the same power as a huge cam-only setup with 241 heads that will pull the brakes at stop lights, hurt low-end torque, and where the main fun will only be in the upper rev range.

If you have your heart set on the big cam, you'll want a stall anyways which would be a little more work and cost than the better 243 heads anyways but the 228 cam/high stall could be the option that you personally might enjoy more. I just don't like the daily driving character of even a 3000 stall.

I also vote against any shift kits, and would just leave it alone unless the trans is built. Then, maybe have the ECU programmed to firm up shifts only at full throttle. Shifts banging into each gear are quite annoying at low speeds IMO, as that's what I had on my last shift kit setup.

 

Thank you very much this helps a lot I appreciate you time. I'm pretty set on the big cam and I agree with what you're saying

 

Moved to C5 Tech.

 

Maybe I'm not the best guy to answer this, but on the other hand, I've NEVER had any problem with the A4 in my 2000 C5. HOWEVER, I have a custom tune because I have a cammed LS7 in mine, so I'm sure the line pressures and torque management have been tweaked. That said, I have never had any problem.....Yet!! One thing I was told NOT to do-So I haven't-Is flooring the pedal and letting the trans downshift itself-I always downshift manually, even though my 4L60E is totally stock, except for a 3200 Stall Yank converter installed over 60,000 miles ago. I also have a B&M trans cooler. I figure that having a 427 yanking on it, with 315/30/18 tires in back for last 60,000 plus miles (over 100,000 miles on trans) is a pretty good testimonial for the 4L60E. I agree with other post that says run it until there's trouble, then worry about building it. But if my experience is any indication, you may have a long wait!!!!

 

Was the corvette that got donated to the museum had 770k miles on orginal trans