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Hey guys, I have question in regards to the LS6 cam in my past 03 Z...
Looking Back, I on the Border of upgrading the cam to something bigger, better utilizing breathing Capabilities of the Motor.
What is viable Upgrade? 228R? I know 6.0 I ran in my Goats not the same League.......we talking 5.7, only.
Sequentially, when I can then afford to drive Z again, I shall have an idea as to which cam I can run.....in the terms of upgrade.
With a new cam, you are going to have to tune the PCM, SO,,,,,,,,,,,,, Do ALL the up-grading that you can afford now and tune ONCE.. You know more HP is never enough..
Some things that you should consider when doing that mod:
NEW LIFTERS!
New correct size pushrods with a larger dia.
New lifter buckets
Bigger injectors 36 lb/hr
Headers LT SS
Proper cold air intake VARARAM
New timing chain
New Oil Pump (high pressure melling)
New dampener Powerbond/DAYCO
ARP Head studs
ARP Dampener Bolt
Rear steam vent mod kit.
I'm sure that I left something out and others will chime in.
If any of you end up wanting to sell a low mileage Z06 Camshaft then let me know
WHY would you want that cam?? Unless you have some very specific use for a OEM ZO6 cam, many who have swapped in that cam found very little improvement over stock and the time, effort and cost was a LOT less than rewarding.
The LS6 had a better intake manifold, better flowing heads, and more compression to make use of that cam.
I have a late Ls1 so have the LS6 intake, I have just purchased LS6 heads. In the UK its a pain to get a good tune so was hoping to just get the Z06 map and run ok. 50bhp more for not a lot of work sounds pretty good to me. If I go for a non standard cam I cant get a easy map. That was my thinking anyway.
I have a late Ls1 so have the LS6 intake, I have just purchased LS6 heads. In the UK its a pain to get a good tune so was hoping to just get the Z06 map and run ok. 50bhp more for not a lot of work sounds pretty good to me. If I go for a non standard cam I cant get a easy map. That was my thinking anyway.
If you invest on the tuning hardware, such as HP Tuners, there is a phenomenal online support community (not to mention the CorvetteForum community here) that you can get a close tune to get you going. If you end up replicating someone's build, you might even get that person to spare you their tune if they have HP tuners. I agree with Bill, not worth the effort for the Z06 cam. Go big or go home. Do it once.
With a new cam, you are going to have to tune the PCM, SO,,,,,,,,,,,,, Do ALL the up-grading that you can afford now and tune ONCE.. You know more HP is never enough..
Some things that you should consider when doing that mod:
NEW LIFTERS!
New correct size pushrods with a larger dia.
New lifter buckets
Bigger injectors 36 lb/hr
Headers LT SS
Proper cold air intake VARARAM
New timing chain
New Oil Pump (high pressure melling)
New dampener Powerbond/DAYCO
ARP Head studs
ARP Dampener Bolt
Rear steam vent mod kit.
I'm sure that I left something out and others will chime in.
Bill
I like 42# injectors more for more room for power growth down the road. 42# gives you potential for 500whp maybe a bit more. Also, don't forget the trunnion upgrade on the rockers and upgraded valvesprings, whether it's PAC Beehive style or dual valve springs depending on lift. What's the rear steam vent mod kit? I thought modifying or eliminating the rear steam vent ports was frowned upon. I didn't modify my steam ports just in case.
I just tossed a texas speed 228r cam aling with the TSP beehive springs, vslve seals and pushrods in my '02 z. I did the headers and x-pipe a few weeks ago. After my tune though, i started popping a p0300. I regapped all my plugs, wires are good, and i ran fuel system cleaner through a fresh tank. STILL GETTING THE CODE. Any thoughts?
2001-2004 LS Engines eliminated the rear steam port crossover piping that the early LS1 engines had. The ports on the 2001-2004 LS engines are blocked off. For those of us that push the envelope on mods, adding crossover to those ports seems to help insure there is adequate cooling in cyls 7&8.
There are a couple of ways to restore that feature it but I recently discovered (via a forum member) that there is a GM Truck engine that has a very convenient crossover pipe that is excellent for out needs.
The 97-2000 cars had some extensive piping that ran under the intake and connected all four corners of the heads.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Aug 26, 2019 at 02:06 PM.
Yes, I'm thinking of a cam somewhat similar to this or, 224/114. Reason being, I'm worried about not getting additional torque from the lower end of the RPM Range...
This is a graph from LG, depicting one of the most important upgrades...their Long Tube Headers, plus minor boltons. Because, maximization of the efficiency of the Motor, prior to additional Modifications...
As you can see...there is noticeable improvement in TQ, after certain amount of RPM's. This is the nature of our LS6, that I'm trying to avoid.
Last edited by Hitman227; Aug 26, 2019 at 04:09 PM.
Reason: Punctuation
2001-2004 LS Engines eliminated the rear steam port crossover piping that the early LS1 engines had. The ports on the 2001-2004 LS engines are blocked off. For those of us that push the envelope on mods, adding crossover to those ports seems to help insure there is adequate cooling in cyls 7&8.
There are a couple of ways to restore that feature it but I recently discovered (via a forum member) that there is a GM Truck engine that has a very convenient crossover pipe that is excellent for out needs.
The 97-2000 cars had some extensive piping that ran under the intake and connected all four corners of the heads.
Bill
Bill, first thanks for all your great contributions on here. You provide phenomenal information and education.
Do you any details on which truck engine carries these crossover tubes? I am considering some braided steam hoses, but if there is an effective OEM solution for the rear I would prefer to go that route. Thanks!
Yes, I'm thinking of a cam somewhat similar to this or, 224/114. Reason being, I'm worried about not getting additional torque from the lower end of the RPM Range...
This is a graph from LG, depicting one of the most important upgrades...their Long Tube Headers, plus minor boltons. Because, maximization of the efficiency of the Motor, prior to additional Modifications...
As you can see...there is noticeable improvement in TQ, after certain amount of RPM's. This is the nature of our LS6, that I'm trying to avoid.
I’ve ran the LG cams for years, you won’t loose any tq down low and will usually gain with their cams
I’ve ran the LG cams for years, you won’t loose any tq down low and will usually gain with their cams
Well, this one is supposed to be only LG LT's, including boltons, with tune. I do realize all the modifications are missing, however I'm pretty certain it's accurate...
Here's a good example of what I'm talking about...this cam is the B1, mighty close to 220/112, I am sure...
Notice the lower RPM's - more of a Bell curve than a MAF curve! This is why it can be risky to go too big on the cam.
Bill, first thanks for all your great contributions on here. You provide phenomenal information and education.
Do you any details on which truck engine carries these crossover tubes? I am considering some braided steam hoses, but if there is an effective OEM solution for the rear I would prefer to go that route. Thanks!
What HE said! And I also would like to thank you!!
.........
I suppose Bill is preoccupied. Therefore I'll expand, on cam correlation.
Here we have Evidence that a larger cam, in this case TR230, doesn't lose any low-end power, however gains through our midrange, and up top:
Yet, it does NOT gain at lower RPM, like this baby cam @ 212/218:
Subsequently, this is most definitely a trade-off!
The smaller your Cam, the more off-idle and lower RPM torque...
Thus...what is preferable for Autocross? For the street? What is an acceptable power-on RPM? Why can you not have the best of both worlds? Is this why custom cams, from for example EDC @ Flowtech, is the Best?? All valid questions.
Upgrade from the LS6 Cam
