I like to do my own oil changes, looks like vette is a little different, (have to back end higher than front end), has anyone tried an oil extractor
manual pump, where the extraction is done through the dip stick tube, I have seen a few vids with this method, look good,
also how high should rear of car be if doing an oil pan drain. Thanks Ken

 

The idea of getting the rear end higher, is so all the oil "rolls" past the internal baffles in the oil pan, and reaches the drain plug. Given that the dip stick comes in from the side, and somewhat rearward of the front of the pan, I don't think that sucking the oil out of a C-5 would get all of it out. I drive my C-5 up on ramps, remove the drain plug, then use a floor jack, with a piece of 2x10 wood on the pedestal, and carefully place it under the rear cradle, then lift the rear slightly, until all the oil drains out.

 

Wasted time and effort IMO. You're going to be getting under the car anyway in order to change the filter.

My old technique when I had the OEM Batwing pan was to drive it up on ramps and chock the front wheels, then lift the rear higher and jackstand it. Quick and efficient process.

 

Thanks for your replies, I wasn't aware of the baffles.

 

I change the oil on my other cars with an oil extractor. It works nicely especially since the oil filter is on top of the engine. For the Vette I did not even try to because of the baffling in the oil pan and you have to get under there to change the filter.

 

When I had my C5s I didn't bother raising the rear of the car to change the oil. As for the level of the car the Factory Service Manual only recommends the oil pan be level for proper draining of the oil past the baffles. Do you think any dealership or indie shop would go to that bother of raising the rear of the car when they put it on a lift? They drive them over the lift, put in the lift pucks if they have them and lift the car. Raising the rear is an **** misinformed DIY thing that has hung around for 21 years too long and doesn't do a thing to improve the longevity of the vehicle. Here is the oil change procedure from the 1999 Factory Service Manuals:

Engine Oil and Oil Filter Change

Removal Procedure
Important: Be sure the vehicle is level during this entire procedure.
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Important: In order to completely drain the oil from the oil pan internal baffling, the bottom of the oil pan must be level during the oil drain procedure.
Allow a MINIMUM of 7 MINUTES for the engine oil to fully drain, once the engine oil drain plug and the engine oil filter are removed.

2. Remove the engine oil drain plug and allow the oil to drain.
3. Remove the engine oil filter by turning the oil filter counterclockwise and allow any remaining oil to drain.

Installation Procedure
1. Clean the gasket sealing area on the engine oil filter mounting surface with a clean, dry cloth.
2. Lightly oil the replacement engine oil filter gasket, use CLEAN oil.

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Important: Use a cap-type wrench, AC Delco OF17W or equivalent, or a strap-type wrench with swivel handle to insure proper installation.
3. Install the filter by turning the engine oil filter clockwise. 4. Wipe the engine oil drain plug with a clean, dry cloth.
5. Install the engine oil drain plug. 6. Fill the engine with the proper type and amount of NEW engine oil. DO NOT use any engine oil additives in Corvette engines. For information on the proper type of oil to use, refer to Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations in Maintenance and Lubrication.
For information on the engine oil capacity, refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications .
7. Run the engine for 3 minutes and thoroughly inspect the oil filter and the oil pan drain plug areas for leaks.
8. Allow the engine to cool for a minimum of 3 minutes.
9. Check the engine oil level.
10. Top-off the engine oil to the full mark on the oil level indicator (dipstick).
11. Lower the vehicle.

Bill

 

This kinda debunks having to raise the rear end.

 

I tried using a pump to extract oil via the dipstick for used oil analysis... and couldn't get any oil out that way. Not sure why.

Same pump (from Blackstone) works fine in my Subaru.

 

Was there any sign of oil at all on the hose, did the hose actually get into the pan?.

 

All very true, Bill, but a person, if they're really finicky about this, may want to take into consideration where they're changing the oil. Since this discussion is centered around DIYers, many residential garage floors are "pitched" toward the outside, to aid in water drainage. Therefore the floors aren't really "level". If you drive in forward, and drain the oil, there will be a certain amount of oil left in the pan, since it followed gravity, and "rolled" to the rear of the pan. Conversely, if you backed into the garage before draining the oil, the natural slope of the floor would have the front of the pan lower, hence you'd get a better drain....

 

When I remove the drain plug and wait until the used oil stops dripping (maybe 10 minutes) I then raise the rear about 5 inches and at least another quart of oil drains out.

That is really all I need to know to validate that jacking the rear is worth the effort.

And I really don't care that Dealerships/Jiffy Lube/ Valvoline just drain the oil with the C5 level.

 

Oil extractor pumps is what people use on their boats, not their vettes. And I don’t even use 1 on my boat. I just get the engine good and hot running it on the trailer and shut it off and pull the drain plug on oil pan. Just let it drain out in the bilge and out the plug hole. I’ve never been a fan of oil extractors sucking it out through the oil dipstick tube. That hole is only made for 1 thing and that’s checking the oil on the dipstick.

 

The hose was hitting something (I could feel it and hear it) but the end of the hose was dry. I'm guessing the hose is too big around, but the difference is tiny so I'm really not sure.

 

I begin with a horizontally leveled car and, when it's just trickling, finish up with a very slight inclination to the front. As it can be seen here, it's impossible to really get all the oil out because of the internal baffling and the way the chambers connect to each other . Raising the back of the car too much could be detrimental .