Clutch replacement and Torque tube
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Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 85
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From: NY
Clutch replacement and Torque tube
I have a HCI car marking about 450-460 RWHP. It is a 03 z06. The car has 25,000 miles. I have about 1000 miles on the car since all the motor upgrade. The stock clutch has been working fine for everyday driving and the occasional hard pull. I did a HPDE recently and my stock clutch stuck to the floor. (Pulled it back with my toes and it was ok). After the event everything was working fine) I knew it was only a matter of time for my clutch. My main question is what clutch would you recommend for my driving style. Mainly street driving with a hand full of HPDE events thrown in a year. Also with the possibility of supercharging the car in the future. I only want to do this job one time.... I’m leaning towards the monster lt1-s. My other main question is how critical is it to change the torque tube bushings and bearings while everything is out. It seems like it’s going to be good amount of extra cash in labor and parts. If I do not have to do this I don’t want to. With my relatively low miles on the car should I be ok without doing it? What would you do in my situation? Thanks!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 364
From: Dardenne Prairie Missouri
I’m having to do this project this winter. I’ll be replacing the bushings and the bearings regardless of how they look. I don’t want to have to do this again in a year or two. I’ve heard good things about the monster lt1-s.. I’ll be going with their level 1 or 2 single disk.
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Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 85
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From: NY
Are you sticking with the stock master cylinder? I did a lot of research on the torque tube bearings and bushing, but didn’t find what I was looking for... is this something that fails often? I just see that some people do it and some don’t. I’m just thinking if it isn’t broke don’t fix it mentality at this point...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 364
From: Dardenne Prairie Missouri
The bushings get chewed up over time... I totally understand your thinking and normally i would be in that same camp with you. This project I don’t want to have to repeat if I can help it so I’m going ahead and replacing stuff.
Here’s my list of parts..
New GM Master Cylinder
Tick GM Slave with remote bleeder and throw out bearin
Monster Level 2 (most likely)
New TT bearings and bushings
It’s not a complete list yet but working on it.
Here’s my list of parts..
New GM Master Cylinder
Tick GM Slave with remote bleeder and throw out bearin
Monster Level 2 (most likely)
New TT bearings and bushings
It’s not a complete list yet but working on it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,396
Likes: 52
From: Sicamous BC
You did well with the stock clutch, that suggests you don't abuse the car 
I went thru a few clutches & finally ended with a twin disc McLeod, it was zero balanced before install. It's important to do that so you don't end up annoying vibration, lots of good information regarding this if you search this forum. Nice easy pedal feel & holds my 416 stroker with no issue, no funny business to get the car rolling.....anyone could drive without special training.
The first replacement was the LS7, then the highly recomended RPS L/W setup. The monster modified LT1 deal, I suspect that was dropped before I rx'd it......lots of issue's. Many dislikes with these from hi pedal release, excessive pedal pressure, poor shift, hard to launch smoothly & vibration.
I went thru a few clutches & finally ended with a twin disc McLeod, it was zero balanced before install. It's important to do that so you don't end up annoying vibration, lots of good information regarding this if you search this forum. Nice easy pedal feel & holds my 416 stroker with no issue, no funny business to get the car rolling.....anyone could drive without special training.
The first replacement was the LS7, then the highly recomended RPS L/W setup. The monster modified LT1 deal, I suspect that was dropped before I rx'd it......lots of issue's. Many dislikes with these from hi pedal release, excessive pedal pressure, poor shift, hard to launch smoothly & vibration.
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Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 85
Likes: 4
From: NY
I was thinking about the McLeod rst, but I have read a lot of good things about the monster twin disc, and it’s cheaper. So that makes it a little easier to decide on that. Did you do any changes to the torque tube bushings and bearings when you have everything out?
Racer
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 290
Likes: 92
From: Tennessee
This is in all possibility just boiled clutch fluid, not a failing clutch. I would go to the trouble of fully bleeding the fluid and replacing it with dot4. The clutch line is not far from the headers and can boil in hpde and cause the pedal to go to the floor.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 85
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From: NY
That was brought to my attention as well. I changed my fluid the ranger method right before the event with fresh dot4. After the first day I did it again that night and it was clear after one drain. Maybe heat wrap my headers? Any other thoughts?
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Racer
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 290
Likes: 92
From: Tennessee
I'm hoping I don't run into the same problem in November when I get my C5Z on track for the first time.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 5,466
Likes: 4,028
From: Cincinnati, OH
Spec stage 2 and aluminum FW may be good for you. After a SC though....I don't know.
ABSOLUTELY I'd do all bearings/bushings in TT, and 100000000000000% get a remote clutch bleeder line with thermal wrapped lines.
ABSOLUTELY I'd do all bearings/bushings in TT, and 100000000000000% get a remote clutch bleeder line with thermal wrapped lines.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 85
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From: NY
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 5,466
Likes: 4,028
From: Cincinnati, OH
I think stock is 28, that may be a lightened steel version. Aluminum is in the 14-17 range depending on brand. I drive mine a lot too and for sure I'm going with an aluminum unit but keep a clutch/pp assembly more street friendly vs going with a small twin disc and aluminum unit. Need to keep streetability.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 364
From: Dardenne Prairie Missouri
Yea 21 is lighter than the stock.. I believe stock on our C5s is 24 lb so 21 should keep the feel/street friendly to stock. I know others on here love the lighter flywheels so it's really all personal preference.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Before you get tooo far into the parts cannon, I would try this..
Replace the stock OEM Master cylinder with a new OEM, Master. I had the exact same mods and exact same issues. Same mileage. When I disassembled my clutch everything looked completely normal.
I disassembled the master cylinder and it was all crapped up inside with clutch dust slime.
Give that a try. It may give you time to let you do the job when you really want to and still be able to drive the car for a while longer.
I replaced mine with a SPEC Dual Disk.
Bill
Replace the stock OEM Master cylinder with a new OEM, Master. I had the exact same mods and exact same issues. Same mileage. When I disassembled my clutch everything looked completely normal.
I disassembled the master cylinder and it was all crapped up inside with clutch dust slime.
Give that a try. It may give you time to let you do the job when you really want to and still be able to drive the car for a while longer.
I replaced mine with a SPEC Dual Disk.
Bill
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 3,773
Likes: 940
From: Orlando Florida
While I know milage and abuse are important factors, I can't help but think of all the rubber things that don't do well with simple age. Seat bushings come to mind. And every rubber handled tool I've ever bought from Harbor Freight. I think when I inevitably drop the TT for what ever reason the couplers are going to be refreshed.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 385
Likes: 102
From: Virginia
I'm selling a Torque tube rebuild kit. I will make you a deal on.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...build-kit.html
KT
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...build-kit.html
KT
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 862
Likes: 41
From: Mahwah NJ
My performance clutch crapped out on my 2002 ZO6 after about 28000 miles. I replaced it with a C6 ZO6 clutch and flywheel. Had the master cylinder and slave replaced as well. All fluids changed to synthetic in trans and rear. My vette drives better than before. It also helps that Chuck Cow of Corvettes of Westchester also tweeked my custom computer tune to a very noticeable increase in torque.
Last edited by 19vette91; Sep 12, 2019 at 05:44 PM.