Traction System Warming Up message
Has anyone ever seen these messages before? Any idea what it means?
ACT HNDLG – WARMING UP: When you first start
your vehicle (especially during cold winter weather),
and begin to drive away (up to 6 mph (10 km/h)),
the message ACT HNDLG – WARMING UP may be
displayed in the DIC, the instrument panel cluster light
will be on, and a chime will sound. This is normal.
You can acknowledge this message by pressing the
RESET button. The Active Handling System
performance is affected until the next message
WARM UP COMPLETE is displayed in the DIC.
During hot or cold temperature conditions, this message
may be displayed in the DIC after exceeding 12 mph
(20 km/h) for 30 seconds. The Active Handling System
is off until the WARM UP COMPLETE message is
displayed.
ACT HNDLG – WARMING UP: When you first start
your vehicle (especially during cold winter weather),
and begin to drive away (up to 6 mph (10 km/h)),
the message ACT HNDLG – WARMING UP may be
displayed in the DIC, the instrument panel cluster light
will be on, and a chime will sound. This is normal.
You can acknowledge this message by pressing the
RESET button. The Active Handling System
performance is affected until the next message
WARM UP COMPLETE is displayed in the DIC.
During hot or cold temperature conditions, this message
may be displayed in the DIC after exceeding 12 mph
(20 km/h) for 30 seconds. The Active Handling System
is off until the WARM UP COMPLETE message is
displayed.
Last edited by Rvajma; Oct 3, 2019 at 02:06 PM.





When you start driving, the EBCM (electronic brake control module, i.e. what used to be an ABS module, or could be called the stability control module) needs to calibrate the steering to zero. This requires essentially driving straight for a little bit. It looks at the steering wheel angle sensor and the yaw sensor, figures out when you're driving straight for roughly 75 ft or so, and then calibrates where zero is. If that doesn't happen within a certain time of starting to drive, you get the message.
When you start driving, the EBCM (electronic brake control module, i.e. what used to be an ABS module, or could be called the stability control module) needs to calibrate the steering to zero. This requires essentially driving straight for a little bit. It looks at the steering wheel angle sensor and the yaw sensor, figures out when you're driving straight for roughly 75 ft or so, and then calibrates where zero is. If that doesn't happen within a certain time of starting to drive, you get the message.
Last edited by Rvajma; Oct 6, 2019 at 05:38 PM.
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On a related question, should I be driving in Competition Mode on track days rather than leaving the default active handling on?
I personally prefer to turn it all the way off, but you're far more likely to spin vs having AH stay on. Another benefit to having it off is longer rear pad life since it doesnt use the rear brakes to keep the car from spinning.
I personally prefer to turn it all the way off, but you're far more likely to spin vs having AH stay on. Another benefit to having it off is longer rear pad life since it doesnt use the rear brakes to keep the car from spinning.





Is the stability control being intrusive when you leave it on? If it is not intrusive, leave it on! Once you reach the point where you feel it is intrusive, then consider switching to competition mode.
Just earlier this week, coming off a strong start in 1st and 2nd, BOTH AH and ABS lights lit up and would not go off, regardless. The car was running fine, though, so I figured the computer was acting up again. Reached destination, turned engine off locked car, came back and everything started fine, no warning lights, everything back to normal. Someday, someone on this board will compose an exorcism ritual for that DIC. Until then, I'll drive the car the way it was meant to be driven.
I've tried disconnecting -12v and leaving it off for a minute, and then for 3 weeks. I also revisited the grounds. The result is the same. Random DIC scrolling, inoperative buttons and then suddenly normal again. But nothing in the normal engine, or braking operation, seems to be compromised. I treat it like the inoperative wonderbar on my C1 radio. Nice idea, bad execution. Some people throw money at problems like this and depending on why they bought their C5s, details may be important to them. Not to me.
Hope this helps.
Best,
MR2
PS. I run faster without Active Handling.
Last edited by mister2; Oct 12, 2019 at 01:58 AM.
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