When in the on position the security light flashes and when I try and start the car it seems like everything goes dead until I release the key. Tried to get another key made but the dealership closest to me doesn’t have the chips and the Charlotte dealer that has them is on strike or so they say. What should I do?

 

Go to a locksmith. You just need the key blank with the correct resistance pellet. Your original key you have can then be used to cut the new black. Our keys are not a "dealer only item".

 

Will the locksmith have resistance pellets? And how are they put on the key?

 

Have you tried cleaning your key's pellet with alcohol?

If your key works fine turning the lock cylinders and you only have 1 key, you can make duplicates:

• Using a multimeter, measure the resistance of your key pellet.
• Check the chart below and find the corresponding VATS No.
• Buy a blank with the correct VATS for your car (Google will help you )
• Make a duplicate in the place of your choice

​​​​​​​

 

The resistance pellets can not be put into the key, the keys are made with the resistance pellet in them already. Yes when you turn the key to the start position most of the power is switched off and only modules, and the fuel pump which are needed to start the car remain powered, of course nothing happens because the BCM knows that something is amiss with the VATS and so it does not provide the ground connection to the TDR relay coil.

 

I tried to buy a new cylinder from the dealership and then you have to get the keys programmed, very costly. I found the resistors value from my key and bought some resistors online and bypassed my VAtS system and everything works great. I dont know if this is your problem but it worked for me. I had codes but remember them being related to the VATS system.

 

The proper way to figure out why this is happening is to READ YOUR DTCs! Until you do that, you are just firing the parts cannon at the car. Read and post the DTCs and we will be able to help you get back on the road.

You really need to always state the year and model C5 that you have. It really can make a difference in proper trouble shooting and repair. There are differences between early and late model C5.

CALL ME!! PM SENT!

READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)



This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)

3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button

4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.



Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.



There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.



Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.



Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.

To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.

NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.



If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.



Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?

First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.



NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.

WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.



These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs



Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:



http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php



http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!



NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.


Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.

Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........

Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.

 

I have a 2001 and I know how to pull the codes and there is no check engine light when running just security lights stays on and it’s very hard to start the car

 

Once I buy the correct number blank Is that it? Will my problem be fixed?

 

If you truly had a VATs fault the car would NOT crank. If you tried to start it more than three times it would lock out the BCM security for 11 min. If the car starts and runs and that light remains on, you have a VATS circuit problem, or a BCM problem.

If the security light stays on after the car is started, you are having some sort of VATs issue. I am very surprised that you don't have any BCM VATS related DTCs. If your key resistor chip is not damaged and you can use an OHM Meter and read the correct resistance on the resistor chip with the meter, I seriously doubt that the key has ANYTHING to do with your issue.

I would more suspect that the VATS resistor reader sensor on front of the ignition switch is more likely the issue BUT, that is just an educated guess. Have you tried to check the DTCs after the engine is running and the security light is flashing?

You state " When in the on position the security light flashes and when I try and start the car it seems like everything goes dead until I release the key."

That tells me that you had a VATS failure.

You also stated "when running just security lights stays on and it’s very hard to start the car"
Please explain in further details on very hard to start... Wont crank, cranks but engine wont fire and run, etc...

Bill

 

When I said it’s hard to start everything goes dead when I try and start the car and it’s an automatic car so when I put it in neutral trying to troubleshoot one day it cranked but wouldn’t stay on and about 5 minutes later after I take the key out and open and close the door it starts up

 

You probably don't ever notice, but the dash goes blank every time you crank the engine. Its normal. It just doesn't USUALLY stay blank that long enough to notice. The fact that it doesn't crank is a problem.
Seeing that you have an A4, the problem most likely lies in the Theft Deterrent / Crank circuity. Could be a number of different parts BUT, I suspect (educated guess) that you are having a starter solenoid issue. (very common problem for C5) Again, instead of firing the PARTS CANNON at it, you have to do some troubleshooting to narrow down the cause..
When you turn the key to CRANK/START, do you hear a CLICK in the passengers footwell? The click would come from the Theft deterrent relay (TDR) I need to know if you hear that click

Bill

 

I am new to this site and extremely curious the outcome of this thread. My '02 coupe will not crank either. I have voltage on the purple wire after the theft deterrent relay when the key is turned to START, so I don't think I have a problem from the ignition switch, through the IP fuse block, through the park/neutral switch, through the TD relay. I can also start the engine if I jump straight to the starter solenoid from the battery with he key on. What I don't know is what happens to the purple wire after it leaves the TDR on the way to the starter. I also don't know if the ignition switch somehow communicates with anything else that could affect cranking. I will look for code(s) after work today.

 

You should really start a new thread BUT, you have a starter solenoid problem.. Very common issue. Have someone try to start the engine HOLD the ignition to START. THUMP the starter or solenoid and if it starts when you thump it, you need a new solenoid. Most people just replace the starter/solenoid as you MUST remove the starter to fix the $50 solenoid.

Bill

 

I hear that click on the passenger side

 

If the TDR is actuating when you turn the IGN to Crank and you have battery voltage on the purple wire to the solenoid, the starter solenoid is bad and or stickng. Very common problem on C5 and C6. Have someone HOLD the key to START/CRANK and whack the starter. If it cranks when you whack it, check the connections on the solenoid and if thaey are good, get a new starter.

Bill

 

I was just trying to help from my experience.

 

I ordered a new key after I measured the resistance and got it cut it started up the first try with no security light

 

Just out of curiosity, what happens when you try to use your old key (the one you measured to order the blank)?

 

Sometime it works sometimes I get the no crank no start issue