Pcv "boot" crumbled (2001 car)
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Pcv "boot" crumbled (2001 car)
In the middle of installing a catch can and the pcv boot just crumbled on me. It's a 2001 car with the valve and boot on the passenger side just before the intake manifold.
Interestingly, the "hose" and valve don't connect. Just "meet" inside the boot. I guess the pressure just builds up inside the boot to open and close the valve? I’m wasn’t familiar with the inside workings of that boot.
Wondering if anyone has a “Mcguyver” repair for this and alternatively if anyone has the part number for a new boot (although I doubt it's sold separately). If I need to replace the whole hose etc, does the intake manifold need to come off? The hose runs along the back. Thanks.
Interestingly, the "hose" and valve don't connect. Just "meet" inside the boot. I guess the pressure just builds up inside the boot to open and close the valve? I’m wasn’t familiar with the inside workings of that boot.
Wondering if anyone has a “Mcguyver” repair for this and alternatively if anyone has the part number for a new boot (although I doubt it's sold separately). If I need to replace the whole hose etc, does the intake manifold need to come off? The hose runs along the back. Thanks.
Last edited by Chillo32; Nov 18, 2019 at 03:22 PM.
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From: Guinness Its whats for B'fast JAWGA
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Just used the Dorman part in the link below to fix the same issue.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...be-repair.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...be-repair.html
Last edited by 93Polo; Nov 18, 2019 at 04:41 PM.
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I’d put an entire new assembly on anyways. Coked up oil over time causes the pcv to fail and pressure buildup makes oil leaks on the oil pan or rear main seals.
I’d spend the $125 on a new hose assembly but not everyone keeps their cars as nice as mine.
I’d spend the $125 on a new hose assembly but not everyone keeps their cars as nice as mine.
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Just used the Dorman part in the link below to fix the same issue.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...be-repair.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...be-repair.html
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2019
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Thread Starter
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thanks. Does the intake need to come off to replace the entire line? It looks like they are loose behind the manifold.
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From: Guinness Its whats for B'fast JAWGA
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FWIW, the car with Dorman part, where we just replaced the boot, has survived 3 hours of track time at Atlanta Motorsport Park doing an HPDE without issue. Josh does have a point so it depends on the condition of your car. If you go all in replace the grommet in the driver's side valve cover as well.
On a 2000, If you have another person to help fish the line, you can put the hoses in place without pulling the intake. One of you pushes the hoses with the other trying to catch the end with their fingers. You could likely do it alone but it might take a few tries. Pulling the intake is not hard but if you do it, and the car has never had it off, I'd replace the injector o rings.
It would be an ideal time to add a good catch can such as Mighty Mouse or Elite.
On a 2000, If you have another person to help fish the line, you can put the hoses in place without pulling the intake. One of you pushes the hoses with the other trying to catch the end with their fingers. You could likely do it alone but it might take a few tries. Pulling the intake is not hard but if you do it, and the car has never had it off, I'd replace the injector o rings.
It would be an ideal time to add a good catch can such as Mighty Mouse or Elite.
Last edited by 93Polo; Nov 18, 2019 at 05:47 PM.
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Drifting
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From: Long Island New York
Good luck
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Olney MD
In the middle of installing a catch can and the pcv boot just crumbled on me. It's a 2001 car with the valve and boot on the passenger side just before the intake manifold.
Interestingly, the "hose" and valve don't connect. Just "meet" inside the boot. I guess the pressure just builds up inside the boot to open and close the valve? I’m wasn’t familiar with the inside workings of that boot.
Wondering if anyone has a “Mcguyver” repair for this and alternatively if anyone has the part number for a new boot (although I doubt it's sold separately). If I need to replace the whole hose etc, does the intake manifold need to come off? The hose runs along the back. Thanks.
Interestingly, the "hose" and valve don't connect. Just "meet" inside the boot. I guess the pressure just builds up inside the boot to open and close the valve? I’m wasn’t familiar with the inside workings of that boot.
Wondering if anyone has a “Mcguyver” repair for this and alternatively if anyone has the part number for a new boot (although I doubt it's sold separately). If I need to replace the whole hose etc, does the intake manifold need to come off? The hose runs along the back. Thanks.
Good luck!
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I faced the same issue this summer installing my catch can! I ordered the pcv assembly from Rockauto and just replaced the whole assembly. It was fairly easy to snake behind the manifold without any assistance, and with any luck, I won't have to worry about deteriorated rubber parts in the back of the engine!
Good luck!
Good luck!
Last edited by Chillo32; Nov 18, 2019 at 10:23 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Olney MD
I wrestled with that issue, too. I put it back on, but it didn't go on easy. The catch can caused it to need to be turned funny, but everything's attached now. Why they put that wire on (as a heat conductor!) is a mystery to me.
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Exactly. That’s how I broke this in the first place, trying to route the catch can hose. I’m guessing g the heating wire is for cold climates. I’m in az so the valve is probably 100 degrees even when the motor is cold.
Cruising
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From: san antonio tx
4-5 yrs ago that boot fell apart on my 01 Z. I improvised with an old used MSD rubber/silicone spark plug boot-actually it was a dist cap boot (90 degree for a large MSD cap..but a boot for any GM HEI cap will prob work just as well too)-which stretched easily over the pcv valve (2 small wire ties next to each other were perfect to hold it securely on the pcv valve) and the u_shaped pipe slipped snugly into the other end of the boot (where a plug wire used to go in) and everything stays in the exact same place it was before.
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From: Guinness Its whats for B'fast JAWGA
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If you go with a catch can, you can delete that entire GM hose system and use standard 3/8" hose. I am running the Mighty Mouse 01+ C5 mild routing with a LS2 TB. Driver's side valve cover port is capped. A hose is run from the passenger side valve cover to the TB or in the case of a LS2 TB the coupler between the MAF and TB. The catch can is between the valley cover and vacuum port on the intake.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...WRmaW5wODYwU0k
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...WRmaW5wODYwU0k
Last edited by 93Polo; Nov 19, 2019 at 09:59 AM.
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Thanks. I am using the Mighty Mouse can, but the guys over there told me to keep the inline pcv valve. I really like the can. But damn that return line runs close to the tensioner. Not sure why they didn’t design it with the inlet and outlet ports a little closer together like the elite engineering can.
I picked up the Dorman boot referenced above as a temporary fix. It actually fits perfectly. A lot more durable than the oem boot.
I picked up the Dorman boot referenced above as a temporary fix. It actually fits perfectly. A lot more durable than the oem boot.