I have tried the 5/8 ford fuel line tool, I have tried the screw driver method. I also tried a regular fuel line disconnect tool. Unfortunately it looks like the white plastic doesn’t have a lip and therefore I can not push it in.

Any suggestions? Can I just cut this line? I am replacing the clutch master cylinder anyways

 

I use a screw driver while pushing the line in a bit ?????

 

thanks for the reply pounder. I tried two screw drivers pushing on the white part from opposite sides, no luck but I do have scars on my hands from trying!

how do you do it? Any tips?

 

Looks like the top ring of your release collar got ripped off. Maybe you can push it down with something else like a fuel line release tool?



That failing, just cut it off. What I've done in the past with fittings like that is to slice them laterally with a dremel until I have a deep enough cut that I can stick a screwdriver in and then twist the fitting apart.

 

WD40 is your friend. I used a modified interior door handle fork to press both sides of the white plastic at the same time while pushing the two ends together. After 45 minutes of nothing the WD40 popped it just like in the manual.

Don't cut it. Have a beer. I'm sure that helped too.

 

Guys, thanks for the replys. I ended up cutting it with my dremmel this morning. The WD40 trick may have worked, wish I had thought of that. I am replacing the slave and master cylinder so turns out I am replacing both sides of the line anyways. Wish I realized that before I wasted so much time trying to get it out!

taking my sweet time to make sure this clutch job is done right. Tomorrow I am resealing the diff, replacing the rubber joints, and reseating the clutch. Hoping for re assembly on Wednesday

 

You figured correctly that with the protrusion of that plastic ring gone, you had no choice but to cut it. Now the rub. I had the same problem a few years ago and found out that there is no source for that quick-disconnect, unless you buy a new GM master and a new GM slave. The aftermarkets are missing the hose and connector.

What I ended up doing is getting a 3AN adapter for both slave and master and putting a 3AN Brake hose between both. The fitting you need is shown in the photo to the right of the end of a C5 master cylinder. You will probably have to remove the master to drive out the little retaining spring pin. I've lost the part number for the fitting but it is shown in the pic below. My recollection is that NAPA had it and it was maybe a Chrysler part. Tick may also have it. Edit: the fitting is a Russell 640281-3AN SAE adapter fitting.

If you go this route here are some lessons learned:
1. you MUST now put a remote bleeder in,as yu will introduce air when you connect. Good idea anyway and cheap insurance.
2. Use two hoses instead of 1. Put a 3AN-3AN male coupling at the bellhousing area near where the QD was. That way if you have to do a clutch job, you can disconnect without pulling the MC.
3. Put a high pressure needle valve on the engine bay end of your remote bleeder. Then put a barb on the other end of the valve . I used a mity-vac to pull a vacuum on the remote bleeder and just kept pouring into the reservoir as the vacuum drew down fluid level. Saved hainv to have a helper pump the pedal.