Oil drain bolt stuck
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 4,704
Likes: 239
From: Redondo Beach CA
I can't advance on the advice already given,. In truth, my first thought of a longer lever, my usual go to, is inferior to using shock.. On a normal guy , that would be enough to zip one's yapper, looks like you hit some bad luck with me, friend.
Oil pan replacement is not such a causal deal in my world, For one thing, I would have to hire the replacement work out, and aren't these things in three sections, with three gaskets? In any event, the emotional cost of being one of the few guys in the world to screw up an oil change would chap for a while.
So I decided to avoid the situation as best I can and installed a dedicated oil change valve, where I only have to install the thing correctly once.
I knew I was taking my concerns to an unreasonable level, the torque requirements of 11 pounds on that bolt are clearly available, but I just never liked the idea of threading a hardened steel bolt into am aluminum fitting repeatedly over time and expecting the same results, even though the fitting might be worked less than fifty times over the next twenty five years. So, I spent about 25 bucks at zip corvette for a dedicated oil change valve to replace the oil change bolt. I might have diarrhea of the keyboard, but I do support the sponsors once in a while.
If the bolt is looking oily , that ieak is probably why it was over tightened, or is leaking because of the over torque, with possibly unknown problems in replacement, plus, you might decide to go with a new bolt anyway. That is why I mentioned the valve as an alternative , a few guys besides me have posted favorably about them. Most don't seek to fix a problem they don't have, but I like it.
With a valve in place of the bolt, one only has to complete the installation once, even with such a simple task, doing it just once was very attractive to me. In my case, my bolt and pan were fine, and the pan threads should stay that way, as long as the next guy on the job understands he is looking at a valve, and doesn't need to remove and replace it with a power tool to save time. Flip of a finger to overcomes the light spring holding the valve lever in a notch, to then be able to position the lever to work the ball valve. It's not going to open from any kind of road vibration.
If your oil filter also decides to get tough, as a last resort only, punch a Phillips screw driver through the can, instead of the work energy being used to crush the can, you are transferring the energy into torque on the outside of the can. Be ready for a mess.
. Or just skip the oil change, sell the car, and forget the whole problem.
Oil pan replacement is not such a causal deal in my world, For one thing, I would have to hire the replacement work out, and aren't these things in three sections, with three gaskets? In any event, the emotional cost of being one of the few guys in the world to screw up an oil change would chap for a while.
So I decided to avoid the situation as best I can and installed a dedicated oil change valve, where I only have to install the thing correctly once.
I knew I was taking my concerns to an unreasonable level, the torque requirements of 11 pounds on that bolt are clearly available, but I just never liked the idea of threading a hardened steel bolt into am aluminum fitting repeatedly over time and expecting the same results, even though the fitting might be worked less than fifty times over the next twenty five years. So, I spent about 25 bucks at zip corvette for a dedicated oil change valve to replace the oil change bolt. I might have diarrhea of the keyboard, but I do support the sponsors once in a while.
If the bolt is looking oily , that ieak is probably why it was over tightened, or is leaking because of the over torque, with possibly unknown problems in replacement, plus, you might decide to go with a new bolt anyway. That is why I mentioned the valve as an alternative , a few guys besides me have posted favorably about them. Most don't seek to fix a problem they don't have, but I like it.
With a valve in place of the bolt, one only has to complete the installation once, even with such a simple task, doing it just once was very attractive to me. In my case, my bolt and pan were fine, and the pan threads should stay that way, as long as the next guy on the job understands he is looking at a valve, and doesn't need to remove and replace it with a power tool to save time. Flip of a finger to overcomes the light spring holding the valve lever in a notch, to then be able to position the lever to work the ball valve. It's not going to open from any kind of road vibration.
If your oil filter also decides to get tough, as a last resort only, punch a Phillips screw driver through the can, instead of the work energy being used to crush the can, you are transferring the energy into torque on the outside of the can. Be ready for a mess.
. Or just skip the oil change, sell the car, and forget the whole problem.
Last edited by strand rider; Dec 15, 2019 at 07:09 AM.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 427
Likes: 121
I can't advance on the advice already given,. In truth, my first thought of a longer lever, my usual go to, is inferior to using shock.. On a normal guy , that would be enough to zip one's yapper, looks like you hit some bad luck with me, friend.
Oil pan replacement is not such a causal deal in my world, For one thing, I would have to hire the replacement work out, and aren't these things in three sections, with three gaskets? In any event, the emotional cost of being one of the few guys in the world to screw up an oil change would chap for a while.
So I decided to avoid the situation as best I can and installed a dedicated oil change valve, where I only have to install the thing correctly once.
I knew I was taking my concerns to an unreasonable level, the torque requirements of 11 pounds on that bolt are clearly available, but I just never liked the idea of threading a hardened steel bolt into am aluminum fitting repeatedly over time and expecting the same results, even though the fitting might be worked less than fifty times over the next twenty five years. So, I spent about 25 bucks at zip corvette for a dedicated oil change valve to replace the oil change bolt. I might have diarrhea of the keyboard, but I do support the sponsors once in a while.
If the bolt is looking oily , that ieak is probably why it was over tightened, or is leaking because of the over torque, with possibly unknown problems in replacement, plus, you might decide to go with a new bolt anyway. That is why I mentioned the valve as an alternative , a few guys besides me have posted favorably about them. Most don't seek to fix a problem they don't have, but I like it.
With a valve in place of the bolt, one only has to complete the installation once, even with such a simple task, doing it just once was very attractive to me. In my case, my bolt and pan were fine, and the pan threads should stay that way, as long as the next guy on the job understands he is looking at a valve, and doesn't need to remove and replace it with a power tool to save time. Flip of a finger to overcomes the light spring holding the valve lever in a notch, to then be able to position the lever to work the ball valve. It's not going to open from any kind of road vibration.
If your oil filter also decides to get tough, as a last resort only, punch a Phillips screw driver through the can, instead of the work energy being used to crush the can, you are transferring the energy into torque on the outside of the can. Be ready for a mess.
. Or just skip the oil change, sell the car, and forget the whole problem.
Oil pan replacement is not such a causal deal in my world, For one thing, I would have to hire the replacement work out, and aren't these things in three sections, with three gaskets? In any event, the emotional cost of being one of the few guys in the world to screw up an oil change would chap for a while.
So I decided to avoid the situation as best I can and installed a dedicated oil change valve, where I only have to install the thing correctly once.
I knew I was taking my concerns to an unreasonable level, the torque requirements of 11 pounds on that bolt are clearly available, but I just never liked the idea of threading a hardened steel bolt into am aluminum fitting repeatedly over time and expecting the same results, even though the fitting might be worked less than fifty times over the next twenty five years. So, I spent about 25 bucks at zip corvette for a dedicated oil change valve to replace the oil change bolt. I might have diarrhea of the keyboard, but I do support the sponsors once in a while.
If the bolt is looking oily , that ieak is probably why it was over tightened, or is leaking because of the over torque, with possibly unknown problems in replacement, plus, you might decide to go with a new bolt anyway. That is why I mentioned the valve as an alternative , a few guys besides me have posted favorably about them. Most don't seek to fix a problem they don't have, but I like it.
With a valve in place of the bolt, one only has to complete the installation once, even with such a simple task, doing it just once was very attractive to me. In my case, my bolt and pan were fine, and the pan threads should stay that way, as long as the next guy on the job understands he is looking at a valve, and doesn't need to remove and replace it with a power tool to save time. Flip of a finger to overcomes the light spring holding the valve lever in a notch, to then be able to position the lever to work the ball valve. It's not going to open from any kind of road vibration.
If your oil filter also decides to get tough, as a last resort only, punch a Phillips screw driver through the can, instead of the work energy being used to crush the can, you are transferring the energy into torque on the outside of the can. Be ready for a mess.
. Or just skip the oil change, sell the car, and forget the whole problem.
https://jackpad.us/oil-drain-valves
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 3,665
Likes: 341
Get a MAPP gas torch. If you don't already have one you can get from Home Depot. The MAPP gas burns hotter then propane, heat the bolt and remove it, it should come out easily. You will have to get a new one because this is going to ruin the seal as well.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 675
Likes: 195
From: Green Oak Township, Michigan
I assume that Crosis got the drain plug out. Let us know how it went. When the day comes that I cant change my own oil any more........Well an electric car is looking better all the time...
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 104
Likes: 19
From: GREENSBORO North Carolina
My last oil change was at a dealership and yesterday I decided to do the oil change myself. I have a 2017 Stingray and I managed to get it up on Jack stands. When I crawled underneath and used a 15 mm wrench to loosen the oil drain plug it would not budge at my maximum strength. I had to lay on my back and crawl under from the front and use my legs to kick in gently from the front going backwards (Anti clock direction on the nut) to get it loose. I have no idea why the dealer tightened it so much but glad I wont be going back there. I did my oil change with Mobil 1 oil and AC Delco PF64 filter for less than half the cost of what the dealer would have charged.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 675
Likes: 195
From: Green Oak Township, Michigan
glad to see that you started to do them yourself. Mobil 1 filters at Walmarts $10 bucks. Fram Ultra Synthetic at Meiers right now is $8.99. Both sell Mobil 1 oil. If you catch a sale at Costco, 6 quarts of Mobil 1 is about $29. Costco Kirkland Full Synthetic, Dexos Approved in 2 five quart jugs, in a box for about $26. Any Auto parts store takes your dirty oil. Theres no reason .....unless your crippled.....to put up with dealer hacks. I bought a 5 gallon water jug at Rural King for $20 bucks for my dirty oil. Its an upright with a 3 inch cap on the top. No need to put that plug in so tight. The pan has aluminum threads. and if you pull the threads out........well, you know the rest.