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Did you remove the “comb” on the top of the splice pack ??...you DON’T have to remove the wires !!!...I front probed both wires but don’t jamb a jumper in there for risk of spreading the terminals !!
I have few testers but nothing small enough to stick in there. I tried using 2 test lights clamped together but it dose not fire. It at least fires with the comb pulled in, but dies right away after running rough.
Alright, first off...thanks so much for the help. I have nothing but great memories from those first few Cruise In's back when Troy first launched the site. What a great community. I have gotten involved in some other cars and forums since buying the C5 in 2000 but this is truly the best community.
Here is what happens with LT and DK green jumped. and the bar removed on both packs. Basically the same as with the bar installed on both packs. Without the jumper it would not start at all.
Thanks for the vids !!...OK, let rule out a data bus issue for now !!...I believe you have 2 separate issues and I’ll look at the wiring tonight or tomorrow and see what it may be...I would try spraying Brake Kleen or carb cleaner into the intake either at PCV or brake booster and see if the car runs a little longer...would be good to check fuel rail pressure...you can rent one at your friendly parts store !!...I would also see if you have good spark while trying to start the car...I would check for spark on each bank !!...you may have only one bank firing and maybe that’s why you smell the fuel...no spark to 4 cylinders !!
C5 Diag- Anyway you could combine my 2 profiles? 2001C5 and 2001C2. 2001C5 was going to the email kerry@2001C5.com but I let the domain go and lost the password. This was around the time the forum was sold and I was not able to recover the handle at that time.
I did a little more recon. Looking at my home surveillance I did have reverse lights when leaving the house. No evidence of brake lights but I might not have used the brakes.
Now, I do not have reverse lights. In fact, putting the car in reverse now turns on the dash lights. Same and the brakes.
This makes me think the light issues and rough run and die are related since I had reverse lights when leaving and then everything went crazy about 3 blocks away.
Try putting the car in reverse and then see if you can hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds and then turns off and see if the reverse lights are also on...looks like G401 is the ground for the back ups and fuel pump...let’s see if you have a good ground and power at back up lights...disconnect the back up connector and see if test light illuminates with test light to ground probing the green wire...now connect test light to battery POSITIVE and now probe the ground...the black wire...test light should be bright..I prefer using an old headlight bulb and use that to check the ground...best to load the ground circuit as we say !!...Body ground G401 is inboard of the back of the left tire (back side of tire) !!
Pulled these out of the attic to find the connectors. Lucky I found them after a move about 7 years ago.
As luck would have it bulbs in both my test lights are broken. Although one worked for a split second before going out.
No reverse lights at all. When I put the key in I hear a sound that I would best describe as dry sucking sound. Not what I would typically expect from a pump when turning the key to accessory.
You sure you have enough fuel in the tank ????….the pump shouldn't make that kind of sound...just a 2 second hum !!...I'd address that ground (G401) and fuel rail pressure which should be 55-62 psi key ON !!
...I hate to say this but we did catch a few mice in the garage back in April...
Originally Posted by 2001C52
...
B2578- RF turn signal monitor circuit
B2583- LF turn signal monitor circuit
...
U1064- Loss of comm BCM
U1096- Loss of comm IPC
U1255 serial data malfunction
U1000- loss of comm
Cleared all
Started car...run only if I gave it gas. Very rough and smelly. Ran about 20 seconds.
Only code to reappear was B0-RFA U1064 H- Loss of comm BCM
@2001C52 : With those codes the common denominator seems to be the BCM. Since the troubleshooting done with the Star Connectors didn't take you anywhere, and considering the mice issue, have you checked to see if the BCM is getting powerandground in all pins it's supposed to? It's possible one of those wires could have been damaged by a mouse...
This is from '99. I'm not sure if '01 has any variations, but since you have the FSMs you can easily make adjustments if needed. Using a multimeter, check both testing points on the upper edge of the following fuses:
A) FUSE 9 - Hot in ACC and ON
B) FUSE 13 - Hot in ON, Bulb Test and START
C) FUSE 22 - Hot in ON
D) FUSE 23 - Hot at all times
E) FUSE 25 - Hot at all times
If the fuses test OK, then backprobe the corresponding pins in the BCM connectors to make sure power is getting to them:
A) Connector C2, Pin D12 (from FUSE 9 - Hot in ACC and ON)
B) Connector C2, Pin D13 (from FUSE 13 - Hot in ON, Bulb Test and START)
C) Connector C1, Pin B11 (from FUSE 22 - Hot in ON)
D) Connector C3, Pin A4 (from FUSE 23 - Hot at all times)
E) Connector C1, Pin A4 (from FUSE 25 - Hot at all times)
Also backprobe the following pins with ignition in OFF to check continuity to ground (they should read 0 Ohms to ground):
A) Connector C1, Pin A9 - Grounded at Ground Point G104
B) Connector C3, Pin A2 - Grounded at Ground Point G202
I had the same identical problem on my 2003 Anniv. Went thru all the helpful advice on this site and finally frustrated myself. As a last resort, pulled the right frt frnder well and accessed the PCM, sure enough the mice had feasted on my harness shorting many functions.
Respliced wires and have not had any problems in 4 years since.
Mice love the taste of the plastic covering that the automotive industry now uses.
Good Luck and please post when you find and fix problem.
I had the same identical problem on my 2003 Anniv. Went thru all the helpful advice on this site and finally frustrated myself. As a last resort, pulled the right frt frnder well and accessed the PCM, sure enough the mice had feasted on my harness shorting many functions.
Respliced wires and have not had any problems in 4 years since.
Mice love the taste of the plastic covering that the automotive industry now uses.
Good Luck and please post when you find and fix problem.
I was hoping this was the answer. I pulled the tire and looked at the PCM. I see nothing. No evidence of mice.
Can you guys tell me want your fuel pump sounds like when the key is turned to on? This video shows the dry sucking sound I mentioned. I don't think it is getting fuel but have not had time to test more yet.
Fuel pump does not sound normal to me. Seeing how the fuel pump, gauge cluster, and BCM gets grounded through the splice pack ground connection under the battery, I'd check that. Ground SP122 is hidden under the battery tray under tape but it will be obvious by the square shape of it. Might be a good time to get familiar with all the ground points on the car as well. Others have reported other things like failing/shorted door modules, and/or seat modules causing issues, as well as hazard switch problems and/or 3rd brake light being out causing some of the lighting issues but the light show with your gauge cluster is unique
Last edited by 02torchred; Dec 30, 2019 at 03:07 AM.
So I was able to do some testing today and have a video with results.
Recap of fuel relay-
Pin 87- tested good
Pin 86- tested good - 11.95 residual with multi meter
Pin 30- Ground tested good
Pin 85- Ground tested good
Note- That odd sound on the pump is not present with the rely removed, so that sound must be the pump.
Big area of concern is in the video. I see no visible wire issues under the under or around the PCM. Check out the video of the cowl area. This has to be from mice but I am not sure where to go next.
Glad my video helped you out...now how long was the car stored without running ??...like I had said spray some Brake Kleen or Carb Cleaner either at the PCV or brake booster and see if the car runs a little bit longer...just want to rule out a fuel issue !!...if the car has not run in a while I would look at some clogged injectors....you can use your ammeter function of your DVOM to see how many Amps the pump is drawing...around 6 Amps is good !!...your DVOM fuse will blow if the pump draws more than 10 Amps...that’s the max current draw on most DVOMS !!..also it would be a good idea to check that fuel pressure !!
Glad my video helped you out...now how long was the car stored without running ??...like I had said spray some Brake Kleen or Carb Cleaner either at the PCV or brake booster and see if the car runs a little bit longer...just want to rule out a fuel issue !!...if the car has not run in a while I would look at some clogged injectors....you can use your ammeter function of your DVOM to see how many Amps the pump is drawing...around 6 Amps is good !!...your DVOM fuse will blow if the pump draws more than 10 Amps...that’s the max current draw on most DVOMS !!..also it would be a good idea to check that fuel pressure !!
Given all the serial network errors, crazy lighting and electric issues, along with the mice nest...don't you think this would be more of an electrical issue than fuel? The car had sat for about a month and ran fine until turning a corner and stopping.
