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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 06:23 PM
  #41  
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Being that you said the pump is making a weird sound we should try to rule that out...you can check pump current flow using pins 87 and 30 with the DVOM of the relay and also checking pressure will confirm that the pump is OK !!...I would say the injectors are OK if only sitting for a month...and does it still start for a bit then stall ??

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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
Being that you said the pump is making a weird sound we should try to rule that out...you can check pump current flow using pins 87 and 30 with the DVOM of the relay and also checking pressure will confirm that the pump is OK !!...I would say the injectors are OK if only sitting for a month...and does it still start for a bit then stall ??
Can you expand on how to do this?

check pump current flow using pins 87 and 30 with the DVOM of the relay
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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 06:43 PM
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Video is worth a million words !!...you use the Amp setting !!




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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 07:40 PM
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No fuel pressure. I am guessing something between the fuse block and pump have been dinner for mice.

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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 07:47 PM
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Key ON only looks like 22-23 psi before you start the car...you can remove the harness connector at the pump and jump 12 volts and ground directly to the pump...do you know when the fuel filter was replaced last ???...you can still see what the amp draw is at the pump !!

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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 07:51 PM
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Fuel could be pretty old. But I really think it is not fuel. Bad fuel is not going to cause all the electrical issues with the light. I think the fuel pump is just another victim of the electrical issues.
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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 07:58 PM
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I would first try to diag your fuel pressure issue first...I can’t really see any correlation between the pump and your lights !!
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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 08:09 PM
  #48  
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I tested 87 to 30 and only getting 1.30 on the meter.
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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 08:11 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
I would first try to diag your fuel pressure issue first...I can’t really see any correlation between the pump and your lights !!
Has to be a set of wires that are damaged causing all the issues. All the issues started at the same moment.
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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 08:51 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Bahama Banger
I had the same identical problem on my 2003 Anniv. Went thru all the helpful advice on this site and finally frustrated myself. As a last resort, pulled the right frt frnder well and accessed the PCM, sure enough the mice had feasted on my harness shorting many functions.
Respliced wires and have not had any problems in 4 years since.
Mice love the taste of the plastic covering that the automotive industry now uses.

Good Luck and please post when you find and fix problem.
Bahama- Did you have the lights and no start issue or just one of them. I have found the mouse nest, just not the damaged wires.
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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 08:57 PM
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As you can see the ground for the pump is also ground for your blinker and brake lights....I’d remove G401 clean it and re install !!...I’d do a ground to ground voltage drop check between the pump ground harness and G401 with pump running !!...here is the wiring !!..now in the video I used a test light...not the best way to load a ground...I should have used my old headlight bulb and connected that to battery positive and pin 30...that bulb draws a little over 4 amps instead of the test light which draws around .05 amp !!


Last edited by C5 Diag; Jan 4, 2020 at 09:17 PM.
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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 09:21 PM
  #52  
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Didn't the P30 to 12V power test with a test light validate G401? I have tested G401 with a test light separately.

It is not just that the tail lights and blinkers are not working. When engaged the brakes make the dash and fog lights illuminate and the blinkers make the entire dash blink. I did just notice that the curtesy lighting in the hatch area is working.

I was also able to validate that the reverse lights and tail lights were working when I pulled out of the driveway via our security cameras. This further ties all the issues to starting at the same time.

Thanks
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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 09:28 PM
  #53  
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How exactly did you exactly check G401 “separately” ??
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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 09:36 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
How exactly did you exactly check G401 “separately” ??
Not saying I did it right .

I used a test light (and jumper cable) from battery positive to the G401 stud. Light came on.
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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 10:01 PM
  #55  
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Just checked what I think is splice pack 400 after pulling the right tail lamps. It was tapped to the harness. Pins looked great.
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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 10:06 PM
  #56  
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No, not right unfortunately !!...what you did was like basically checking a test light connecting it to the battery terminals !!...I would disconnect the pump harness and take a headlight bulb that is connected to battery positive and touch the other end to the terminal that goes to G401.
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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 10:40 PM
  #57  
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Can you tell me where the pump harness is located? I assume on the left tank? I have a 4 post lift but it will be a bear to move the cars around and get the C5 on it by just pushing.
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Old Jan 5, 2020 | 01:40 AM
  #58  
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You must remove the metal access cover to get to the pump and harness...easily seen from underneath !!...might be a good place for mice to hide !!

Last edited by C5 Diag; Jan 5, 2020 at 01:42 AM.
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Old Jan 5, 2020 | 12:20 PM
  #59  
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I guess I should check battery power to ground at the rear lighting harness as well?


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Old Jan 14, 2020 | 11:59 AM
  #60  
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@2001C52 Were you able to find and fix the problem(s)?
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