Hi

I have this spec camshaft 218/228 .600/.615 118 LSA and wonder how it would work for what I want. Brand new but not used, I don't mind a smooth idle and I want a very streetable car, but wonder what other affects the 118 LSA has? Will I even notice, it will still be better than stock right?
Spec

• LS6 intake
• 75mm ported cable throttle body
• 80 or 85mm MAF (cant remember)
• Aftermarket cold air filter
• Stock headers (cant change), but with 2.5" stainless straight through system with no CATs
• TKO 600 5 Speed
• LS6 Heads

 

Depends on what you call "streetable".

This cam (I'm pretty sure it was close to this, mine was older so a discontinued model now) with .595/.595 112LSA sounded like this.
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-8546-t...-camshaft.aspx

I daily drove the car, but I'm not sure I'd say it's for everyone.

 

Close on spec, but i'm guessing the 112 LSA is giving in the lumpy idle

 

Mine had 12 degrees of overlap. Tricky to tune the idle because you can't use a wideband then.

 

Do you know what the centerline is or if it is advanced at all? Ie." +3 " on the cam, etc?

Because if that cam is installed straight up (on the 118 centerline) than it has a IVC (intake valve closing) at 47 degrees (stock is 38 for LS1 and 42 for the 02+ Z06) which is very late and the EVO (exhaust valve opening) is very early at 55 degrees.

Those valve events would be very close to a LS7 stock cam, except the cam you posted has even more overlap. IMO unless you're revving that thing out to 7000 RPM you won't really be seeing the benefits of it. Plus you won't have the lower end torque to fill in the gap that the bigger displacement 7.0L would have. Bumping up your compression ie thinner head gaskets and/or shaving the heads could help.

EDITED: Because the cam is degreed +3 degrees (on a 115 centerline) it'd give you a better IVC at 44 degrees, but that would now change the EVO to 55 degrees which is still pretty early and spilling the exhaust pretty soon.

Will it work and have a semi-smooth idle? Yes, but I wouldn't choose it for a small displacement 5.7L on a street/daily car. Just to give an idea of my taste though, I like a nice power through out the curve, and don't like high stall torque converters at all. In summary, that is a very wide spread cam with that duration/LSA. I'd only use that in maybe a stroker for a sleeper sound, or something of larger displacement.

 

The centre line is 115

 

Okay, I've edited my post with your updated info. I think because you've made the exhaust more efficient, you could still make do with a slightly smaller cam to have better driveability. The cam you listed is going to push a lot of the power band way up high. If you spend most of your time at redline, or don't worry about low-end response too much, then it might work for what you want. LSA isn't every thing, it's usually more a result of the desired valve events, so I tried to demonstrate that a little in my first post.

 

Thanks for the info, doesnt look like it's the cam for me, I want street manners and use with fast road.

 

No problem, the huge thing here is "streetable" is so subjective and I'm sure we will have people chime in who have bigger cams and say them to behave as such.
Sometimes there is a slight torque loss at lower RPMs that's imperceivable to some, but I am sensitive about with smaller displacement motors. Shorter gearing (numerically larger) gearing can help.
If I understand you right, you might want something along the lines of slightly smaller duration, with a slightly tighter LSA.
Something like a 212/218 and 116 + 0 LSA (-17 overlap) or 216/220 and 115 + 0 LSA (-12 overlap: same as your listed cam) would be slightly more agressive than an 02 Z06 cam (-24 overlap, not a bad choice either) but pick up a little bit and have good valve events.

 

I was first thinking the ls6 cam, but was told for all the effort I should go a little bigger. I use the car for road trips and holidays, so dont want anything crazy.
In the past Cam motion recommended this, looks about what spec your saying. What I don't get is what the 2 different lift options mean?

http://www.cammotion.com/camshafts/l...-218-224-16-3/

 

I would probably do the 02+ LS6 cam if I ever decide to throw one in. Another option is heads.
In my opinion, a smaller cam with ported/polished/high compression heads is better and more streetable than a larger cam with stock heads.
Generally speaking, the higher lift makes more power, but needs better springs, and they need to be checked up on and/or replaced at certain intervals. A lot of cam manufacturers say this, but some will still argue about that and say their springs have been fine. Some spring pressures like to be checked at 10-15k miles, Texas Speed likes to see them get checked around that time or 20-25k miles. Some think its good to check all springs from time to time, even stock. Other things like aggressiveness of lobe design, valve train setup, heat cycling, and driving habits affect valve spring life too.
To me, the little extra power isn't worth the trade off for the above reasons, so I personally tend to go with lower lifts like 0.550 rather than 0.600+

 

I'm putting on the ls6 heads, will do very mild porting, more of a clean up on the valve seat lips etc.
I think it will be the ls6 02 cam, or a low aftermarket option. I just want to break in to the 400bhp area.

 

So I've gone for the ls6 cam. What over small ticks are there for extra power when doing these swaps?

I have read that I should remove the maf screen.

 

I'd say you've got things covered. I don't think I'd mess with the maf for the .01 hp you'll gain.

 

Hi
So if I wanted to safely get into the 400bhp at the crank, I'm thinking I might need to up the camshalf just slightly. These are the cams that each of these supplies recommended:

Cam Motion
LS1 Stage 3 218/224, .553 or .595 lift and LSA 116+3
http://www.cammotion.com/camshafts/l...-218-224-16-3/

BTR
LS1 Stage 1
223/230, .610/573 lift, LSA 115+2
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/ls...age-i-cam.html

Texas Speed
224R .600 lift and 114 LSA
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-8547-t...-camshaft.aspx

Anyone using one of these, or got any views on spec?

Thanks

 

If you are running GM springs the CamMotion drop in cam and verify that you can use your springs.

If you are willing to change springs all of the cams listed above should be easy to tune. I would not run a 224/224 on stock manifolds but if you have headers it is a great cam. If you are are on stock manifolds I like the extra exhaust duration of the BTR and CamMotion.

 

I need to change the springs, so that's ok. Only annoying thing is the cost of aftermarket springs, any reasonable priced options?

I have stock headers, what is the issue with the durations, any chance you could explain?

 

I'd go with a BTR cam kit most likely, they have good springs.

 

The extra exhaust duration will help band aid for lack of a better term the restriction of the stock manifolds vs the free flowing headers.

The extra duration (2nd number) gives the exhaust more time to scavenge. Long tube headers would not need as much extra time as they allow for higher velocity emptying the cylinder of exhaust.

 

thank you, I dont know the science, but that makes sense to me!