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Harmonic Balancer Replace

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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 03:33 PM
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Default Harmonic Balancer Replace

Removed the rack today. Not a simple task for a 76 year old body laying on it's back but I gotrdone. Now for my question. Anyone here ever use a 4 to 1 torque multiplier when replacing the balancer?
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 03:59 PM
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Nah. Just follow the book or the manufacturer recommended.
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 05:15 PM
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Not a simple task for a 76 year old body laying on it's back but I gotrdone.
That's amazing, Bravo great job! did this a few years ago and was not fun. I never used that 4 to 1 tool, just a straight-up 250lb torque wrench with ARP bolt.
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by pjdbm
That's amazing, Bravo great job! did this a few years ago and was not fun. I never used that 4 to 1 tool, just a straight-up 250lb torque wrench with ARP bolt.
Thanks. I've used the multiplier when changing the timing chain on my BMW S38-B35 engine but it's been a few years. I'm thinkin 60 will be much easier to pull than 240 and then there is the 130 degree stretch. Don't think I can get it done straight up.
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 12:58 AM
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I used the ARP Bolt on my car when I replaced the balancer. It is a torque only installation and no extra stretch. I had torque multipliers in my workplace and they did make things easier.
I would not be afraid to use the multiplier on the job. Good luck with your repair.
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by zachaeous
I used the ARP Bolt on my car when I replaced the balancer. It is a torque only installation and no extra stretch. I had torque multipliers in my workplace and they did make things easier.
I would not be afraid to use the multiplier on the job. Good luck with your repair.
Much thanks. I will purchase the ARP bolt.
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 07:30 AM
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I had a 30 to 1 torque multiplier tool for removing lug nuts and wedged it against the cross frame, then used my standard 1/2" ratchet and gingerly tightened the stock bolt back. Because of the rules I autocross/time trial in I had to replace with stock balancer and flywheel. Initially I torqued the bolt to 37 ft-lbs and then measured the 240 deg. and market it. Next I wedged the multiplier tool and leisurely moved the bolt the remaining 240 degrees. Also used a Kent-Moore fly wheel lock and held the crank in place.

I was 72 then so it was pretty easy, removing the rack was a challenge but used an article from the forum on how to do it.
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by pjdbm
That's amazing, Bravo great job! did this a few years ago and was not fun. I never used that 4 to 1 tool, just a straight-up 250lb torque wrench with ARP bolt.

Same here..............but I was only 63 or 64, when I did the job.
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 08:25 AM
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Thanks all for responses. I'm gonna go with the ARP bolt and use the 4 to 1
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by JWM
Thanks all for responses. I'm gonna go with the ARP bolt and use the 4 to 1
I had to purchase a new, higher capacity torque wrench, just for this job. I don't think I've used it for anything else, since. If you lived closer to you, I'd stop over and tighten the bolt for you!! And keep in mind, you can tighten the bolt while standing next to the car, you don't have to be on your back, underneath the car....
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 12:43 PM
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Default Balancer

I just did mine last week. ARP and 250 torque wrench. Not as bad as I thought it would be but I’m right there with you.
Broken back and hip takes me a little longer than years before.
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Fleet
I just did mine last week. ARP and 250 torque wrench. Not as bad as I thought it would be but I’m right there with you.
Broken back and hip takes me a little longer than years before.
Yes, my problem is actually not age related. Two motorcycle accidents resulted in a 70% crush of L2 vertebra, a broken left arm and dislocated shoulder which required surgery. Just gotta be a bit more careful when I jump into something like this. I'll getrdone and am in no hurry.
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
I had to purchase a new, higher capacity torque wrench, just for this job. I don't think I've used it for anything else, since. If you lived closer to you, I'd stop over and tighten the bolt for you!! And keep in mind, you can tighten the bolt while standing next to the car, you don't have to be on your back, underneath the car....
Thanks Leadfoot. It's always the thought that counts the most.
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 03:24 PM
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I just did mine 3 days ago, ARP bolt + 240 ft-lbs. I'm 30 and am pretty fit, but it wasn't easy for me either. Did it standing on the driver side, pulling the torque wrench toward me.

FYI Autozone typically has a 250 ft-lb 1/2" drive torque wrench available for rent. That's the route I went.
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MetalMan2
..... Did it standing on the driver side, pulling the torque wrench toward me.
That's the route I went.
As did I. Instead of jack stands, however, i had my car sitting on (4) 50 pound, scale test weights. I find them to be more stable than jack stands, as they have more surface area for the car to rest on, with the "lifting pucks" in place.

I set them up so that one "side" of the weight is on the floor, and the "up side" has the car sitting on it. The side are 6" square, so they're quite stable, and in that orientation, they're 8" tall. If I happen to need more height, I have several pieces of 2x10 wood, that I can set the weights on. My concern, if I need to work under the car, is safety, and these weights provide it.
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 05:54 AM
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You can “rent” the 250lb torque wrench from a local auto parts store for free also. I’m sure the accuracy of them isn’t the best given they are used and returned frequently. When I did my balance last year I rented one one from advance auto. I have since bought a nice 250lb TW since my old craftsman was in front of Its best years and needed replaced.

Last edited by CinciZ06; Mar 5, 2020 at 01:39 PM.
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 11:22 AM
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JMI why r u guys t torquing ARP bolt to 240. I did mine 15yrs ago and tq it down to 130. And I have a s/c with 1000hp. ??? Just wondering. Don't yell at me.
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 01:10 PM
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It's the initial torque spec to ensure the balancer is seated properly before moving on to the new TTY bolt, which is 37 ft lbs and then 140 degrees. The ARP bolt is not TTY, so the installation is done at the 240 ft lbs phase. I can tell ya it feels not normal to put that much torque on a crank bolt however! I would feel better if it were installed at like 150-175 ft lbs, but it seems nobody ever has a problem stripping threads at 240.

Last edited by CinciZ06; Mar 5, 2020 at 01:12 PM.
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by CinciZ06
It's the initial torque spec to ensure the balancer is seated properly before moving on to the new TTY bolt, which is 37 ft lbs and then 140 degrees. The ARP bolt is not TTY, so the installation is done at the 240 ft lbs phase. I can tell ya it feels not normal to put that much torque on a crank bolt however! I would feel better if it were installed at like 150-175 ft lbs, but it seems nobody ever has a problem stripping threads at 240.
Given this info, I just may back off of that 240 a bit.
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by helga203
JMI why r u guys t torquing ARP bolt to 240. I did mine 15yrs ago and tq it down to 130. And I have a s/c with 1000hp. ??? Just wondering. Don't yell at me.
Because that's what the ARP instructions tell you to do!

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