Thanks guys for all the input on this. Interestingly my car has driven basically fine all this time. but I am tired of not being able floor it whenever I want. So, today I ordered this:
https://www.tickperformance.com/tick...-corvette-z06/

S series single disc for up to 550 rwhp
18lb billet steel flywheel
GM bolts package
Slave cylinder
Master cylinder
Pilot bearing
Throwout bearing
Bleeder
Was 1,174.99 for the package. I plan to start on it next week when the parts arrive. Will print out that pdf "feeder82" posted and use it to keep me on track. I'll plan to post back when I am done.

 

@feeder82, I am using your c5_clutch_install sheet. Can you help me with the stuff on page 4? What is the "intake tract" and the "TB"? You were saying "Disconnect the intake tract from the TB to prevent over stressing these parts when you lower the drivetrain in the next step." Also, would it be helpful to support the engine with a jack under the oil pan to keep it from bouncing or rocking up and down while I remove the torque tube?

@everyone else - any suggestions on what else to inspect and/or replace while I have the tranmission/differential/torque tube out of the car? It has 120k miles on it, when to the rear wheel bearings typically go out? I have not noticed any problem with them, but wonder if this is the time to replace them. Anything else like that? Another thing, the transmission and differential are kind of oily/greasy. The car does not leave oil on the garage floor, but those seem to be "seeping" a little fluid, just enough to make the bottom of their housings a little grimely. Do I replace seals or gaskets? Any suggestions appreciated.

 

If it ain’t broke best to leave well enough alone ….replace what’s needed and drive it. You could clean it up with some degreaser and see what ya get

 

Just to set the record straight that is not my instruction sheet that is member @Dope. To clarify your question @Rodvet. You need to loosen up the tube that connects the air cleaner to the throttle body, the engine will tilt down during the drivetrain removal, if you don't damage to the parts involved could result.

 

While you're in there and the trans/diff is down, look at the prop shaft's bearings, look at it's couplers, look at the mounts, and consider if you want to add a brace.

The bearings and couplers are wear items and will **** you off if you need to pull the entire assembly out again. It's several hundred for new OEM ones or similar quality. Some people go aftermarket and some people regret it. You can get solid couplers instead but they will need to be machined to match your application perfectly - I would only recommend if your car sees tons of track time, as it adds a fair bit of cost. (The parts are cheap, the machining is not.)

The mounts are wear items but there are no new OEM ones. If yours are knackered, you basically only have aftermarket choices.

Adding a brace is really annoying when the car is on jacks, less so on a lift, but easy when the diff/trans is out. Consider it.

Oh, and also inspect the rear main seal for problems.

Since you already purchased this kit I will not weigh in with other opinions. Everyone has clutch opinions.

 

@gimp, what brace are you saying to add?

@everyone, I have long tube headers, am I going to need to pull those? The ends of the headers go past the bell housing about 8 inches past where the torque tube bolts to bell housing.

Also, is there a thread paste to use to make the exhaust bolts easier to undo? I have the most difficult ones out now, but it was a pain and seems like there may be a thread treatment to help that (for future R&R).

 

I typically use Never Seez or another anti seize compound, the copper version. Has always worked for me.
While you have everything apart I would replace the rear main seal and the main seal cover. GM has released an improved version of the cover that has larger shoulder bolts and an improved gasket to help prevent leaks. Dorman makes an exact copy for a good bit less. Also change the rear axle seals at the diff. They're reasonably priced and much easier to replace with the rear end out of the car. Great opportunity to replace the O2 sensors if they haven't already been changed. They get "lazy" over time and can hinder performance and efficiency.
I'm in the same stage as you with everything apart and I'm basically replacing everything that I can while it's easier. Don't want to have to go through this again if I can help it.
I did the same thing when my harmonic balancer failed a few years ago. Pretty much everything on the front of my engine got replaces while I had the opportunity!
Good luck. I'll be following along........

 

@Zmeister thanks for the input and glad you mentioned harmonic balancer, pretty sure i need to do mine, I get a sqeak/sqweal sound that sounds like a belt but it is not a belt or pulley. Seems to get less pronounced after I drive a few minutes, but still makes the sound. Can you point me to a resource on how to get the balancer off? Also, on the clutch job, did you have to pull your headers to get the torque tube out and to remove and replace the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate and slave cyliner?

 

If you have header you will be removing them for a clutch job as they extend back .. but if pulling the harmonic balancer you should tackle that balancer before the clutch as there’s literally no weight on the middle of that car back once the rear end is down ..for removing the balancer the steering rack needs to come out …then u might as well grab a cam , timing gears & chain , oil pump , the balancer a sfi rated part…and the list could continue …I’m doing a slave cylinder install at the moment….part will be in tomorrow…for the slave cylinder u will need to measure from the bell housing to clutch fingers & from the torque tube face to that flat face of the slave cylinder plenty of videos and I have instructions if u need them ..needs to be within .125 inches of accuracy for best results…..no as easy as just ripping out parts and throwing them in ….for the timing u need to find tdc too dead center by rotating then your crank to set timing to spec …like I said it’s not as easy as some are just not giving you all the info to do it correctly.
when removing your torque tube place a jack with a piece of wood under the bell housing oil pan are or use a belt strap to ease the lid of the engine once torque is coming off

 

There are some really good write ups on Harmonic Balancer replacement in the forum. They saved me a ton of headaches when I did mine. This one here seems to be the most comprehensive. A couple of things that I learned was:
1. If you are renting the puller/installer from the local autoparts store, make sure they have the proper one. Most of the "generic" kits don't have the right accessories to do an LS one. I had to modify an extension for the puller because the hole in the crank is so deep.
2. Figure out how you want to press your balancer back on and acquire the parts well in advance. I struggled trying to find what I needed locally and wasn't smart enough not to wait until I had the whole thing apart to get what I needed. I have a Fastenall nearby and took for granted that they would have the proper bolt. They didn't and wanted me to order a lot quantity to get just one.
3. Clean the fittings on the power steering rack BEFORE you remove them. Mine had a ton of grime on them and trying to clean them while they are loose and not get dirt in the system was nearly impossible. I am convinced that is what caused my power steering pump to crap out right after finishing this job.

 

rodvet, Speedy and Silver gave a lot of good info. On the harmonic balancer issue I wouldn't wait too long if you feel that it is going bad. Mine had developed a very small wobble that was just barely detectable and I continued to drive the car to work for a few days while I did my research and ordered the parts. On the fifth day the balancer came apart and the outer ring walked off the back of the inner ring and right into the front main seal cover plate. What a loud mess. Luckily I was only a few hundred feet from the house and was able to get the car back to my house pretty easy. The Corvette Forum and YouTube showed me everything I needed to know to do the job after the balancer failure. I replaced everything on the front...balancer, water pump, timing gears, timing chain, steering pump and pulley, added a timing chain dampener, radiator, all associated hoses, etc. Everything was reasonably priced. I got most items from Amazon and was able to borrow some of the tools from a friend and was able to get some help at Advanced Auto Parts with their inventory of free rental tools. Tedious work but mostly not too complicated. As Speedy mentioned above the steering rack needs to come out since it is directly in front of the harmonic balancer and as Silver mentioned be sure to clean everything up front really good to make the whole process much easier. I should mention that my harmonic balancer failed at about 180k miles. The car is at a little over 205k now and the rear main seal is leaking pretty bad which is what got me started with my current repairs and why I am taking advantage of changing the clutch pack.
As for the clutch part....right now I am at the point where disassembly is complete and I'm about to start reassembly. I don't have headers so I can't offer any input on whether they would have to be removed.

 

Headers don't have to come

 

Headers don't have to come completely out, but you will have to completely unbolt them so you can move them out of the way.

 

@rodvet, sorry for missing your message earlier.

There are at least two diff-trans braces that I know of - ECS and DTE. That's East Coast Supercharging, and ... I actually don't know what DTE stands for. There are some parts called a "transmission differential brace" that are more of a mount.

I have an ECS unit. Nothing wrong with DTE. Buy a take-off or get a new one, shouldn't really matter either way. The folks at ECS will tell you that the two units are very similar.

Again, if you plan to be street driving at stock power, and you're not in a habit of launching hard, it's entirely unnecessary to add. There may be people who claim they should have installed one and faced issues due to not doing so, but the GM engineers who developed the drivetrain did a fantastic job for a street car in, like, 1996. However if you plan to launch hard regularly, or track it, or run significantly more power - $300-ish today can save you a lot of money later. (And you can always take it off and sell it used for probably half the new price or more.) Pain in the butt to add with the diff/trans installed in the car, but trivial to add when they are out of the car. Ask me how I know!

 

Need some help, got it all back together and have been bleeding the clutch with the remote bleeder. I have the Tick Performance clutch master and slave installed and the remote bleeder. I am using a hand pump to vacuum bleed the line, but, it's been about 45 minutes of constant pumping and I keep getting lots of air. Have filled the reservoir several times. How long should it take to bleed the system? I was thinking it would just be a few minutes, but 45 minutes later, still getting lots of air.

 

sucking air from somewhere? bad hose connection?

 

 

Something is definitely wrong all that i've done took mins. .. Like was said above some thing is pulling in air. Check all the component u installed.

 

Thanks for the help guys, it was the GM Quick Disconnect Fitting. Once I got that seated better, only took a couple minutes of bleeding to get the clutch working.

 

For future reference ia 18mm open end wrench on the back of quick disconnect to get a good tight push on it ..u can also use it to remove it by place the wrench on the plastic and push down …