Help.....
I parked my 97 C5 overnight outside it has frost on the car. I drove to work this morning 25 miles. When i was roughly 5 miles from work my traction control light and abs light came on and the message on instrument cluster says:service traction system.I pulled the code 28-Tcs 1227. IThe car was running fine. At work I googled this code and brought me to this site some one posted who got this code. Member responded to this post says "left rear abs sensor/corrosion in connector or bad abs wiring or sensor but the poster never posted if this was the problem. So I'm thinking I'll check left rear abs sensor/wiring ddamage/,or check for corrosion this weekend.Since work was slow and dead i took off rest of the day. Now it was snowing mixed with rain so the roads were little bit wet so is the car.I left work started my way home. When i was like 5 miles away from home i was getting same message and codes but when I pulled into drive was and into garage I got message reduce engine power and the motor was running rough. So i shut off the engine and pulled the codes. This time I pulled following codes : BO-RFA C2120 H C, 28-TCS C1278 H, 28TCS C1227 H. 10 PCM P1221H C. SAYS ON CLUSTER MESSAGE",REDUCE ENGINE POWER. Now I had very same if not similiar problem with the car same if nit very similiar codes and messages last year. That time i washed my car with a pressure washer at work when i was like 3 miles into driving home my engine eent into loss of engine power had the exact same light and messages and i'm pretty sure same DTC codes as stated above. At that tine I deleted the trouble codes drove the car it was running fine till like couple of block the reduce engine power message came on and the engine went into reduced power mode plus I think exact exact same DTC codes were on. After keeping my car inside my garage for sbout 5 days I started the car up and it was idling fine, no DTC codes or reduce engibe power message came on. I drove the car around for few miles and longer and the car was runn8ng fine and normal like this problem never existed. So I thought to myself ok when I pressured washed the car and i did blow into both fenders filler covers electrical connectors or the pcm mounted on right side inside fender or abs sensors and wiring connector must of got wet and once dried out now it's fine since it dried out.
I'm writing and posting this from my phone be cause i do not have internet at home. Hopefully everything i need to write down is clearly written since it's difficult for me to proof read this cry for help post.

Help me guys let me know what is csusing this problem. There got to be a person out there who had similiar if not exact problem I'm having and foxed it and knows the fix. I don't know much about engines and cars, i love this car. 1st time owner. I'd hate to have this problem everytime it rains or my car is wet. Or have to get rid of the car. I've invested way to much into the car in interiors and uograding shocks and sway bars. I'd hate to sell this car if i can't find the problem.

Please help

 

Ok, I cleared all the codes car was driving fine till about .3 miles into driving the engine reduced power and the message "reduced engine power " message came on and idling rough. I pulled tge codes the following codes pulled from DTC: 28-TCS C1278 . 10-PCM 2 CODES (P1120 H/C, P1221 H/C) AND "Reduced engine power" message.

 

A failing ignition switch can also produce those symptoms although difficult to diagnose. One clue would that symptoms change or go away if you shut down then restart. Burned contacts in the switch become erratic, sometimes make/ break contact at different times before failing enough that diagnosis is easy.

I have replaced two ignition switches, the first when the car was 10 years old, again two years later. Third switch has been fine for the last 6 years.

Also saw a post recently where similar symptoms were caused by a loose or corroded engine ground, webbed strap on side of engine block to the frame. Remove it, clean all contacts and reinstall using dielectric grease. I did that 10 years ago as a preventative measure. Same with all other grounds and all four wheel speed connectors. There is one on back of passenger side head also.

Check post 8-

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-go-crazy.html

 

Thank you for your response. It appears this is tge second time this happened and 1st time right after i washed the car. 2nd time now snowing, wet snow turned into water soon as it hut tge car snd groud and car was parked outside over****t where it was covered with frost. I'm kinda thinking moisture and light rain or snow has something to do wirh it where connectors are getting wet from moisture.
also i read here possibility may be tps sensor may be bad or going bad fo cause this. I used hair drier blowing hot air into tps sensor and tps wiring connector in case mousture inside maybe causing this problem. I can't believe it's this difficult to pinpoint the problem. All i can do is rely on forum members who had this problem in the past and will respond to my post with the fix. I can't afford to dish out $400-$700 for mechanic shop to fix the problem. Again thank you for your input.

 

Wow only one person response. Come on guys i know lots of people had same if not similiar problem. Let me hear from you guys.....

 

Nearly every time my 1997 C5 started doing stuff like that a NEW battery solved the problem. Another time it reset all by itself IDK.....

At some point u need to find money to invest in it, sell or park it a while. It’s 23 years old.
Good luck

 

I would hate to sell this car, my 1st vette and I love it when i drive this car. I will try numberour things and go from there.

 

The 2 TPS DTC's are causing the "Reduced Engine Power" so I would go down that funnel...not knowing much about cars or engines will make it a little tough for you to diagnose...it will be hard to find someone on the Forum that has had the exact same problem and that problem is also your problem !!...to look at both TPS signals you would need a scope and if you don't know a lot about these cars you might not even have a DVOM which you can at least look at the TPS signal voltages...it may just be a bad TPS sensor but without a good diagnosis you'd only be guessing...I'd bite the bullet and take it to a diagnostic shop and see what they would charge to hook up a scope and look at the TPS signals running down the road...good luck !!

p.s. where are you located ??...ALWAYS good to put that in your profile...a member last year was having issues with his C5 and his profile said he was only in NJ like I am...found out he lived a few blocks from me...LOL !!!

 

Shorten your write ups. One reason people don’t respond is it is hard to read a long writeup, interpret the words and offer good ideas.

As a suggestion, when you report a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) report the prefix letter, the number and the H and//or C, along with the description,. Otherwise, not only does a potential responder have to read the long thread you wrote, but also look up the DTC description.

You can do some homework too. google the DTC before posting. The C5 was one of the first GM cars with “drive by wire”, where there is no mechanical connection from happy pedal to throttle body. So your TPS codes are going to be electrical in nature. The early C5’s were bad to break the wires leading to the TPS, but the break is hidden in the insulation, so a visual will say OK. Over the years people servicing the air intake will not put the harness back in the restraints properly, and they will flop due to air flow and break wires internally.