electrical problem after jump start

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Mar 25, 2020 | 03:23 PM

MaxOrbit

Thread Starter

Advanced

Joined: Jul 2019

Posts: 55

Likes: 11

From: Victoria,BC,Canada

electrical problem after jump start

Hello all, I'm posting this for a fellow club member with a 2002 Vette. His battery had died while in storage. He used his battery charger to jump start it which worked ok but now he has electrical problems. HIs power windows don't work, the traction control is on and won't turn off and some gauges don't work ( volt and oil pressure gauges). Fuse 29 in the BCM keeps blowing. He has it in the shop and they claim it's all caused by a faulty HVAC controller ( which I find hard to believe). He's looking for another good controller to try. Does anyone have any experience with this type of proble? The HVAC controller could cause the problem if it messes with the CAN bus.

Last edited by MaxOrbit; Mar 25, 2020 at 11:29 PM.

Mar 25, 2020 | 04:17 PM

RichyB33

Instructor

Joined: Mar 2020

Posts: 113

Likes: 28

I had to jump mine a week ago. After jumping it, the gauges didn't work at all. I ended up disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it. That seemed to clear up my problem. I don't know what it was, but it worked.

Mar 25, 2020 | 04:23 PM

JR-01

Le Mans Master

Joined: Sep 2013

Posts: 8,900

Likes: 1,072

From: Wisconsin

Shows once again not to jump start these cars with their delicate electronics. Charge a battery to 100%, install it and start your car.

Mar 25, 2020 | 04:53 PM

Evil-Twin

Team Owner

Joined: Mar 2001

Posts: 21,325

Likes: 3,840

From: small town in S.E Pa. PA

St. Jude Donor '03-'04

The electrical system is very sensitive. I always talk about not using a cheap battery tender, it could cause a lot of grief.
A dead battery should be charged outside of the electrical system.

Mar 25, 2020 | 08:33 PM

awches

Pro

Joined: Aug 2016

Posts: 667

Likes: 162

From: Jennings LA

Been using a Battery Tender Plus on my car for the last 3 yrs with no problems. But never jumped it even when I had a battery go bad last year.

Mar 25, 2020 | 11:56 PM

Vetteman Jack

Administrator

Joined: Mar 2001

Posts: 367,290

Likes: 24,572

From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.

C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021

MO Events Coordinator

St. Jude Co-Organizer

St. Jude Donor '03 thru '25

NCM Sinkhole Donor

CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran

Moved to C5 Tech.

Mar 26, 2020 | 05:45 AM

Grandpa1

Burning Brakes

Joined: Jun 2017

Posts: 1,045

Likes: 275

From: Wichita Falls Texas

That's scary!

Mar 26, 2020 | 12:52 PM

C5 Diag

Moderator, Tech Contributor

Joined: Sep 2013

Posts: 15,319

Likes: 3,927

From: Cape Coral, Florida

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaxOrbit

Do you mean Fuse 29 at the IP Fuse Block ???...there are no fuses in the BCM physically. If it is indeed Fuse 29 it powers the lighter and the ALDL...that is Pin 16 at the DLC that powers it...if Fuse 29 were blown a scan tool would not be able to communicate with the cars modules and you will have all "No Comms" !!!... Now if the HVAC module loses either a power or a ground you may have issues on the CAN bus and with that issue you would also have all "No Comms" with a scan tool...you will see your power windows don't work, you will see all the DIC messages...R.E.P, low fuel, etc...and the gas gauge goes to E and the water temp gauge maxes out. The car may either not start or start and then stall. All your shop has to do is pull both splice pack bus bars near the BCM and probe all the pins with a scope...a good CAN bus signal is a 0-7 volt square wave...if they see either 12 volts or ground on any of those pins that is the bad module...easy to troubleshoot but you need the right diagnostic equipment.

Last edited by C5 Diag; Mar 26, 2020 at 12:56 PM.