I just purchased a 2001 with 144k miles a few days ago, and I'm running in to a major transmission problem now. I test drove the car for nearly 15 miles on two separate occasions, and then drove it home 70 miles and it ran perfectly. That last 70 miles was in heavy rain however. I took it out again this morning and have no issue for about a mile or so until I get on a highway. At this point the issue is that it can't seem to decide if it wants to stay in first or second gear or neutral (or the neutral could just be it slipping). It doesn't seem to want to go in to third. I was forced to drive for about 10 minutes with the RPM at 4500 going 50. However, as soon as I let off the gas and start coasting, the engine drops down to almost idle, until I get on the gas again.

I drove it home from work and had to just keep it in first (I also have to hold the gear selector on 1 or it will pop out). At this time, I notice the trans temps climbed all the way up to 230 degrees from driving at relatively low speeds on surface streets. I can guess that the transmission is probably done, but could this be related to water getting in to somewhere like a harness or module after driving in that rain. It seems very strange that it exhibited no slipping or any problem on that drive home, and then suddenly went bad. I used my bluetooth scan tool and the built in diagnostic mode and there are no codes related to the transmission, only for an engine misfire, active handling system and ABS. I'd appreciate an help diagnosing this.

 

Hi,
Is this an auto or stick? I have an auto and my 3-4 clutch pack went out.it was around $3k at my local transmission shop. i know it sounds expensive but the smile will be put back on your face as soon as you get it back.

 

Sounds like tranny is toast. These A4's don't have the extent of PCM programming the newer A6's and A8's have, so most likely not tuning related.

 

Check the transmission fluid level.

 

Odd you have to hold it in low gear.
Could be you have a shifter, cable, or shift lever issue at the transmission itself.

 

An automatic popping out of gear? That is weird. I just had a shifter cable replaced on my 03 vert because of all the reports of the bushing ends failing. I wonder if the bushing on one of the ends is completely gone and it will not go in the correct gear?
You can jack up the rear end and crawl under and see the cable where it hooks up to the trans..
I don't know what else to say except good luck.

 

I'm far from being the trans expert here on the Forum but doesn't the converter unlock if the PCM detects misfires ??...if it was raining you may have an ignition system related misfire...may be something to look into...see what cylinder is missing if your scan tool will tell you that...also see what your long term fuel trims look like !!...as far as the gear selector that may be something else. Oh, BTW clear the P0300 or whatever specific cylinder misfire it shows with your scan tool and see what happens...and if a "false" misfire (do you feel a misfire ??) due to crank variation relearn needed may clear the misfire DTC and keep the P0300 from setting.

 

I got under there and the shift cable looked good. It actually looked fairly fresh, I think it had been replaced. However, the electronic part it attaches to has me concerned. Any idea if this could be the cause of my issue?


I believe I do feel a misfire or at least a stumble every few seconds. I also occasionally get a little smoke out of the exhaust at idle that has a smell similar to gun powder.

 

While a misfire prevents TCC lock, it doesn't keep you out of a gear. Typically you'll lose 3-4 (clutch pack) or 2+4 (band). Do you still have 2nd gear? The reason ROMs drop when you lift is because the PCM commands a shift, but there's nothing there to hold it if the trans is smoked. The 4L60 sucks.

 

I put the car up on jackstands keeping it level. Let the transmission warm up to 100-120 degrees. Pulled the plug and nothing dribbled out. Added about 1.5 qts while running until it started to come out and test drove. It made no difference. Any other ideas?

 

with trans tempa as high as they were and 1.5 quarts low I would find a local trans shop

 

Temps were pretty much the same. Instead of 230 it hit 223 at the most.

 

I made some calls to transmission shops around me. Prices ranged from $1600-$2600 for a rebuild depending on what is damaged and what parts I want in it. One shop I called (Aamco of all places) seemed knowledgeable with the 4L60 specifically in the Corvette. They said they rebuild with a High Energy 2-4 Band and use Z Pak (Raybestos) 3-4 Clutches. Their price seemed in line with the others and they have an 18 month warranty. Being 3 miles away helps so I don't have to go far enough to need it towed.

 

I would think that rain and a broken electrical component as seen in the video could be the culprit. These are shifted electronically.

Many years ago I was going to upgrade a tranny. My buddy at Dynojet turned me onto these guys. Had a long talk with the owner - SUPER knowledgeable. Never did the trans back then but would definitely consider sending them my C5 trans if I needed a rebuild.

https://www.finishlinetrans.com/transmissions/index.htm

AAMCOs are independently owned and operated, but in all my years of working in and around cars, I do not think I would let them rebuild my transmission unless I really researched the particular shop. Just my .02

 

Mainly just want to follow this thread and see what the solution is, but working in electronic, I know that electronics and water do not play well together. You need to start by replacing that assembly and see what happens. It will need to be replaced regardless of if the tranny needs to be rebuilt. Good luck.

 

I believe the part you show in the picture is the park/ neutral position switch, if it's bad the car might not start.

 

I’ve tuned engine swaps that don’t have
that switch, they work fine. It’s function is for back up lights etc.
The neutral safety switch is actually located on the shifter itself.

If that switch we’re busted internally, I suppose it could prevent the shift lever from fully reaching its detents.

If you put the shifter in low, you can pop the cable off and make sure the shift lever is in the detent. Long shot, but wtf at this point.

I had Performabuilt build me a trans and I installed it myself. Approx $1700. Been flawless for 8 years now. Big job though

 

If you decide to have AAMCO rebuild your transmission, tell them once the unit is out of the car you want to stand next to the technician and watch the teardown. If they say no, go elsewhere. The cost for a rebuild kit (clutches/seals/etc) is relatively small compared to the potential cost of hard parts (bearings/gears/hubs/sprags/etc) and it's the latter that is often problematic with these franchise shops, in many cases they'll want to charge for "new" replacement hard parts that aren't really needed and in some cases aren't in fact even replaced. If you watch the teardown you can have the technician show you exactly what's damaged/needing replacement. Then ask to see the replacement parts they'll put in, because in many cases these shops put in used/recycled parts rather than new but charge new prices. It's truly a buyer beware case with these places. Oh, and if they say the torque converter must be replaced (which they generally always do) think about getting a performance unit from a known vendor, as most of these shops use rebuilt converters that aren't always good quality.