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I had a warped rotor on my 98 vert. I decided just to replace all four rotors and brake pads. I went with the AC Delco professional line rotors and semi metallic pads. Everything went together great with no issues. I’m not a mechanic but I’ve been doing my own brakes for ever. The pulsation was gone and the car stopped great. I called AC Delco to see if they recommended any sort of break in for the new pads and rotors and they said “just drive the car normal…no special break-in”. Like I said everything worked great but then I just started to develop a squeak at low speed braking. It doesn’t seem to change in pitch or severity just constant consistent at the lower speeds.
I pulled all the brakes apart cleaned everything put it all back together double checked all the torque specs. The squeal went away for a little while but then returned. The car stops great and I don’t feel any pulsations or issues other than the noise.
I can only think because it vanished and came back with use, it might be the anti squeak lubrication is not working. Just a guess from a guy who hardly ever worked on brakes, and doesn't pretend to be qualified to give advice on safety systems. My out of the blue guess is influenced by my old cars and the change of common practice today where anti squeak Lub was added to the job.
I would guess you are already well aware of this. Adding squeak lube , although I had heard of it long ago , didn't sink in until I saw it in a how to do a brake job pamphlet a brake company put out. Call me a slow learner.
I had never used it back on my disk brake old cars, when I first learned, and you didn't list it among your parts purchase. So, optimist that I am, I guess it is simple assembly error, and not mechanical damage.
I always use anti squeal (most recently I purchased the stick form) and it have always kept my brakes from squealing.
Do you use that on the backside of all the hardware? Also I’ve heard that GM recommends that the wear indicators be in the up and inside position on the brakes…any thoughts on that?
Not on my C5 but I had a similar issue with my Murano. My mechanic tried everything to fix the squeak but nothing worked on the new OME stuff he put on. Finally he said he would replace everything (rotors and pads) again with the same stuff. When he did, all was quite. He speculated something in the pads,rotors or both was a mfg. defect.
Do you use that on the backside of all the hardware? Also I’ve heard that GM recommends that the wear indicators be in the up and inside position on the brakes…any thoughts on that?
back of the pads where the pistons would have contact, the corners/notches where the pads slide into the brackets (inside of the hardware and outside) and then lube the float pins.
Not sure this shows it but all I had its the blue goo
Last edited by dskinsler83; Apr 9, 2020 at 06:29 PM.
*update* I pulled EVERYTHING apart…cleaned every bought a “ultra”brake lube…lubed everything…changed sides on the pads so the wear indicators are in the “upright/inside” position. Torqued everything To spec…took it for a short drive and (fingers crossed 🤞 no squeak!
Do you use that on the backside of all the hardware? Also I’ve heard that GM recommends that the wear indicators be in the up and inside position on the brakes…any thoughts on that?
Typically you want the indicator before the pad. It has to do with the way the indicator is built and how it will make noise.
Putting a non directional finish on the rotor, chamfering the leading edge of the bad if it's square cut, using caliper lube on the hardware, pins, back of the pads all help. Best way to think of it is that the noise is a result of vibration, and when the finishes are correct, and things are lubed, they won't make noise.
All that said, every once in a while you get a pad that just makes noise (I once saw a nut formed into the pad material), and nothing short of a new set of pads and a non directional finish on the rotors will cure it.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Apr 9, 2020 at 08:04 PM.
Typically you want the indicator before the pad. It has to do with the way the indicator is built and how it will make noise.
Putting a non directional finish on the rotor, chamfering the leading edge of the bad if it's square cut, using caliper lube on the hardware, pins, back of the pads all help. Best way to think of it is that the noise is a result of vibration, and when the finishes are correct, and things are lubed, they won't make noise.
All that said, every once in a while you get a pad that just makes noise (I once saw a nut formed into the pad material), and nothing short of a new set of pads and a non directional finish on the rotors will cure it.
Definitely a one in a million. I did a lot of brakes as a tech, and had a really good tech instruct me when I was younger. I ran a Midas (a good one not a hack shop) and really saw and resolved a lot of brake problems over the years. Most of the time it's either a finish, a break in, lack of lube or dirt/rust, or a material defect causing a squeak. Sometimes you get a good name pad, and it's just a clunker. Improper break in can cause lots of issues, but in reality, do you think all the cars off the assembly line have a brake break in procedure?
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Apr 9, 2020 at 10:10 PM.
Definitely a one in a million. I did a lot of brakes as a tech, and had a really good tech instruct me when I was younger. I ran a Midas (a good one not a hack shop) and really saw and resolved a lot of brake problems over the years. Most of the time it's either a finish, a break in, lack of lube or dirt/rust, or a material defect causing a squeak. Sometimes you get a good name pad, and it's just a clunker. Improper break in can cause lots of issues, but in reality, do you think all the cars off the assembly line have a brake break in procedure?
RIGHT! They just get drove off the line and away they go. I can tell you that rust is not a issue. Thinking that it was a lube issue or maybe something was not sitting right. I changed the orientation of the wear markers so they are up and in the inside…but honestly I don’t see how that would make a difference with brake squeak since the pads are the same inside and out. Might make a difference when they get down to the wear indicators and they start to touch the rotor…but I would never let them get to that point.
I have never lubed the back side of the slide hardware were it touches the calipers…I did it now though. I bought better lube and put that **** on everything lol. Maybe changing the pads to the other rotor might help if something wasn’t sitting right. Fingers crossed.
Thank goodness the problem , which I assume is gone by now, was somewhat lube related. That saved my *** , if it was.
I know it's not a competition, yet I always feel pretty dang stupid after more experienced and knowledgable people post up actually helpful answers. The posted experiences did gave me some insight in case I have the same problem, I thank you'll for that.
Without knowing that defective pads are known to be a possibility worth considering , I would have thought that possibility remote, and my inexperienced mechanical work would be the logical fault. I probably would have spent the rest of my days taking apart, redoing the work and checking for errors, and only finding frustration., over and over again. Something like that, I only slightly exaggerated.
******UPDATE*******
ok so I pulled EVERYTHING apart cleaned EVERYTHING and lubed EVERYTHING. have not put a ton of miles on her since but so far NO NOISE!!!!
Thanks for posting. Good info as I'm doing my 99's brakes. I lubed the slide pins and the backs of pads. Waiting on a tie rod end before I can complete the job. Hopefully no squeaks