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Old Apr 10, 2020 | 08:35 PM
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Default Power window issue.

To start I am a veeerry casual do-it-yourselfer. But I like to try what I can can because ,who doesn’t like to save a little money? I have an 03 z06 with about 56k miles on the clock. Recently my passenger window stopped working. It’s rolled up and I can’t get it down. I can hear something clicking when I press the down button on either door but otherwise there’s no other noises that make it seem like the motor is having issues. I can lock the door just fine. I checked the two fuses that directly correlate to the passenger door. 1) is 33 for the Door Control Module Left and 2) 34 for the Power Feed Door Left and both seem fine. I’m not tech or in this case electrical savvy so any and all help would be greatly appreciated!
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Shoulda_Hada_v8
To start I am a veeerry casual do-it-yourselfer. But I like to try what I can can because ,who doesn’t like to save a little money? I have an 03 z06 with about 56k miles on the clock. Recently my passenger window stopped working. It’s rolled up and I can’t get it down. I can hear something clicking when I press the down button on either door but otherwise there’s no other noises that make it seem like the motor is having issues. I can lock the door just fine. I checked the two fuses that directly correlate to the passenger door. 1) is 33 for the Door Control Module Left and 2) 34 for the Power Feed Door Left and both seem fine. I’m not tech or in this case electrical savvy so any and all help would be greatly appreciated!
there is a lock/window module in the door, it is probably fried. you can find them on ebay about $75 (new ones are $900) or you can replace the relays
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Shoulda_Hada_v8
To start I am a veeerry casual do-it-yourselfer. But I like to try what I can can because ,who doesn’t like to save a little money? I have an 03 z06 with about 56k miles on the clock. Recently my passenger window stopped working. It’s rolled up and I can’t get it down. I can hear something clicking when I press the down button on either door but otherwise there’s no other noises that make it seem like the motor is having issues. I can lock the door just fine. I checked the two fuses that directly correlate to the passenger door. 1) is 33 for the Door Control Module Left and 2) 34 for the Power Feed Door Left and both seem fine. I’m not tech or in this case electrical savvy so any and all help would be greatly appreciated!
Sounds to me like a motor is bad.
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 02:29 PM
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Did you check to see if there are any codes?
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 04:37 PM
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Before doing anything, you may want to try the wack method. See post #3 in the following. It worked for me 2 years ago and still no further problem.

Passenger window - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion



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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by rrwirsi
Before doing anything, you may want to try the wack method. See post #3 in the following. It worked for me 2 years ago and still no further problem.

Passenger window - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
I def start with that, fingers crossed that it keeps me going a little longer, she’s almost paid off so here’s hoping. 🤞
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by UM Rebel
Did you check to see if there are any codes?
Haven’t yet, I don’t have a code reader so I need to borrow one, but I will before I put too much many into parts.
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by slothman
there is a lock/window module in the door, it is probably fried. you can find them on ebay about $75 (new ones are $900) or you can replace the relays
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eCbn3iU0zg
If it is that I’ll def start on eBay, don’t have 900$ burning a hole in my pocket haha
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 08:36 PM
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Mine was the regulator. There are wire mesh cords that are on a pulley system with the motor that raise/lower it.
The cord was frayed and got stuck in the UP position on the driver side. Was really annoying when at drive-throughs while waiting for the new one to come in the mail
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 02torchred
Mine was the regulator. There are wire mesh cords that are on a pulley system with the motor that raise/lower it.
The cord was frayed and got stuck in the UP position on the driver side. Was really annoying when at drive-throughs while waiting for the new one to come in the mail
How bad was it to replace and get back together?
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Old Apr 12, 2020 | 02:31 AM
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It's not that bad, just a learning curve like most things working on something the first time. The moisture guard broke on mine, so had to replace. Did both sides. 4mm socket wrench and 6 series female torx is important to have.
Biggest thing I wish people had told me was height adjustment. Never found anything like what I'm about to post, but these are the window stops. If they are too high up, the window will create wind noise at the seals.
If theyre too far down, the window will hit the blow-out clip at the top of the door. I recommend AC Delco brand after using a cheaper brand.



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Old Apr 12, 2020 | 05:34 AM
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I've got the same issue and symptom with my passenger window as well. Mine is also stuck in the up position. It only makes a clicking noise when pressing either passenger side window switches.

Last edited by avigar; Apr 13, 2020 at 12:19 AM.
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Old Apr 12, 2020 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 02torchred
It's not that bad, just a learning curve like most things working on something the first time. The moisture guard broke on mine, so had to replace. Did both sides. 4mm socket wrench and 6 series female torx is important to have.
Biggest thing I wish people had told me was height adjustment. Never found anything like what I'm about to post, but these are the window stops. If they are too high up, the window will create wind noise at the seals.
If theyre too far down, the window will hit the blow-out clip at the top of the door. I recommend AC Delco brand after using a cheaper brand.


looking like that’s what I’m gonna have to do, thanks for the pics, should help a lot.
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Old Apr 12, 2020 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Shoulda_Hada_v8
Haven’t yet, I don’t have a code reader so I need to borrow one, but I will before I put too much many into parts.
You don't need a code reader. It's built into the car.
How to Pull Codes:
1. Turn your key to the "ON" position, but do not start the engine.
2. Clear any present messages by pressing the RESET button.
3. Hold the OPTIONS button down, and press the FUEL button 4 times. (This will get you into the "codes" section of the DIC.
4. The computer will automatically display all the codes your car has created. It will cycle through each code every 3 seconds. (Have a pen and paper handy to write down the codes)

Note: Any code that ends in an "H" is a history code (something that has occurred in the past, but is not reporting as an error currently.)

5. Once the computer has finished going through all of its codes, press RESET to enter Manual Configuration mode. It should start with a module and show "NO CODES" or "# Codes."
6. To optionally reset codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until is displays "NO CODES."
7. Press OPTIONS to go into the next module (ie, from PCM, or Powertrain Control Module, to TCS, or Traction Control System.)
8. Repeat Step 6 until you have reset all the codes in all the computer modules.
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