Help with battery replacement
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 18
Likes: 2
Help with battery replacement
Bought a new battery which was fully charged but after I installed it my 2001 still will not start only keeps clicking. Do I need to reset something? Checked the manual but it was no help.
The terminals on the battery where clean and I know I installed and tighten them right. I also recharged the battery while it was installed to the car but it still only just keeps clicking.
Also, with the door closed the dash lights would not go off while I was charging the battery, so I just disconnected the ground terminal.
Seems like something with bad with the electrical system.
The terminals on the battery where clean and I know I installed and tighten them right. I also recharged the battery while it was installed to the car but it still only just keeps clicking.
Also, with the door closed the dash lights would not go off while I was charging the battery, so I just disconnected the ground terminal.
Seems like something with bad with the electrical system.
Last edited by Michael15956; May 30, 2020 at 08:12 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 55
Likes: 11
From: Victoria,BC,Canada
Try thia
On the left side of the steering wheel on the dash there a row of buttons and HUD controls. At the bottom is a small round button to adjust dashboard lighting. To enanble it you press it once and it pops out for you to adjust . When done you need to press it again so it stays in. If you let this button to remain out it will drain your battery. Ask me how I now.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,117
Likes: 793
From: Espanola New Mexico
Where is the clicking coming from, is it inside the car or in the engine compartment. As mentioned in earlier post check your ground connection to the engine block and check the cables at the starter solenoid. If proficient with DMM you can check for 12V on purple wire at TDR, the TDR is located above BCM in passenger footwell area. That purple wire is the wire that connects to the switch terminal at the starter solenoid, and will only have voltage when you turn the key to the start position, if you have voltage there then most likely the starter/solenoid will have to be replaced. Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 18
Likes: 2
Thanks guys for the responses,
I'm a electrician and have a good meter. I fully charged this new battery to 12.16 VDC with the car battery cables disconnected from the battery. Reconnected the battery cables and the vehicle started right up. So, the first time this new battery was installed the car started up and then drained and after the second time the battery was charged and cable reinstalled I put my volt meter on after about 24 hours and only had 11.18 VDC reading.
Question is can the mentioned starter/solenoid drain this battery?
Also, cable connections are clean and look to be solidly connected. Vehicle has 42,000 miles and no rust to frame.
I'm a electrician and have a good meter. I fully charged this new battery to 12.16 VDC with the car battery cables disconnected from the battery. Reconnected the battery cables and the vehicle started right up. So, the first time this new battery was installed the car started up and then drained and after the second time the battery was charged and cable reinstalled I put my volt meter on after about 24 hours and only had 11.18 VDC reading.
Question is can the mentioned starter/solenoid drain this battery?
Also, cable connections are clean and look to be solidly connected. Vehicle has 42,000 miles and no rust to frame.
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Drifting
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,544
Likes: 208
From: Huntersville, NC
more likely retained accessory power. when you first shut the key off, the system still draws an amp or 2, then it slowly goes down as other modules go to sleep. Sometimes, things don’t go to sleep, and your battery will be too low to start the car. One way to find parasitic drains is to check voltage drop across suspect fuses. Go to power probe.com. they have tables for all fuse amp ratings for voltage drop across the fuse. You need a meter that reads my accurately. The top of each fuse have exposed spots for a good sharp pointed probe.
Fuses have carefully controlled resistance and cross section as they rely on the heat from current flow to open them.
Fuses have carefully controlled resistance and cross section as they rely on the heat from current flow to open them.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,473
Likes: 691
From: West Virginia
One small point. A fully charged battery will be 12.6 v (2.1/cell). As k24556 says, you need to find the power drain. Another way to get to it is to put your multimeter in series with the battery to get an amperage read, then pull and replace the fuses one at a time. and see when the current drops. Had to go that route with my Chevy truck not long back. Tedious, but I got there!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,117
Likes: 793
From: Espanola New Mexico
Check for sleep mode current by connecting DMM in series with negative battery terminal and negative battery cable, select DC and 10 amp scale, current should be around 25ma. If sleep mode current is not around 25ma, then you will have to take millivolt measurements across the fuses, much easier to do and less time consuming then pulling and replacing fuses because you have to wait for system to enter sleep mode every time you pull a fuse.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 456
Likes: 144
From: Frederick Colorado
I found the plastic switch of my glove compartment lamp broken. The switch would just get pushed back into its holder, and not open the circuit. My glovebox light was staying on all the time.
But this didn't end my parasitic drain, oh nooooo! So I went through the whole system and found my "monitored" relay was hot, because there was still a drain... and my interior was still using power.
I went into my dark garage and started messing with stuff, and found my stupid passenger visor switch was broken, and stuck in the "on" position, again due to Chevrolet's shitty plastic. I am not sure, but I think I have it dialed in now... after shelling out $150 for some new visors.
But this didn't end my parasitic drain, oh nooooo! So I went through the whole system and found my "monitored" relay was hot, because there was still a drain... and my interior was still using power.
I went into my dark garage and started messing with stuff, and found my stupid passenger visor switch was broken, and stuck in the "on" position, again due to Chevrolet's shitty plastic. I am not sure, but I think I have it dialed in now... after shelling out $150 for some new visors.
