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Hello. I have a 2004 C5 I been reading about the valvetraine failure. I wanted to upgrade my springs rockers and pushrods.
Do I need to replace lifters to since I will replace the push rods.
is there a full kit I can buy even if it comes witt small cam for street with manual transmission is ok. Any input would greatly be appreciated.
you have to take off the heads to get to the lifters. That adds a lot of $ to your upgrade. What makes you feel you need to fix stuff? Which C5? What are your plans for the car?
Its a 2004 C5. 72k miles. I read a lot about valvetraine failure. I just wanted to replace rockers and springs and pushrods. But was not sure if I had to replace lifters as well.
most of the valve train failures you read about are the yellow beehive springs in the c5z, which has a higher lift cam and more compression than your base C5. Unless you know something about the car’s history, I might suggest you drive it until it tells you or you desire more performance.
Then you can begin to climb the slippery slope of modding your car. Adding HP is $50-60 per HP, so adding 100hp is $5k.
That is music to my ears. You really eased my mind. As far as I know all is stock. So I will not mess with that. Am I safe to hit up to 5500 rpm? The only thing I noticed they did not change out brake and clutch fluid regular. L/R TPMS no good. One will be here tomorrow. Other than that it is truly perfect and I'm in love with it.
there is a rev limiter programmed into the pcm. should be ok to hit it once in a while. Clutch fluid may be a challenge for you, but research remote clutch bleeders and put that one down as a good and useful mod. Not an easy one, though
I ordered that automatic bleeder already. The 4' one. I ordered the super duty Dot 4 fluid as well. I will complete bleed out both the brake and clutch system. I read it can be a challenge. But I am so excited to do it. Thinking about getting the quick jack now that I'm saving money not doing the valvetraine. I plan on doing all my work that I can.
You will have to drop the transaxle at the bellhousing to install a remote bleeder. It can be challenging, so do a lot of research. You will be disconnecting stuff you may never have done before. If you know someone that has done it, that would help.
Oh wow. I did not know that. I got a question. I heard on YouTube video you can remove the intake to install it but it was easier to take off exhsust to do it. By the time I fumble around with jacks then exhaust bolts maybe breaking I can pull the intake off alot faster. But I was not sure if I could install it from there? Why do people swap to ls6 intake? Just incase if I take mine off and need to switch. Thanks for the input as well.
Last edited by C5forever79; Jun 2, 2020 at 04:19 PM.
You will have to drop the transaxle at the bellhousing to install most remote bleeders. It can be challenging, so do a lot of research. You will be disconnecting stuff you may never have done before. If you know someone that has done it, that would help.
Fixed that for you.
Katech remote bleeder can be installed without removing torque tube. Just have to pull mid pipes and clutch inspection cover, maybe tunnel plate. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-the-best.html
Fixed that for you.
Katech remote bleeder can be installed without removing torque tube. Just have to pull mid pipes and clutch inspection cover, maybe tunnel plate. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-the-best.html
Ok that is what I have read to. Do not want to drop the transaxle right now lol.
Originally Posted by k24556
I wish my big ole hands would fit up there. I’ve tried several attacks, repulsed on all of them. Closest I gan get with my fingers is 3 inches away
that scares me a bit. I got pretty good size hands to. Growing up they called me little man with the big hands. But I do have a 16 year old son with thinner hands 😂
most of the valve train failures you read about are the yellow beehive springs in the c5z, which has a higher lift cam and more compression than your base C5. Unless you know something about the car’s history, I might suggest you drive it until it tells you or you desire more performance.
Then you can begin to climb the slippery slope of modding your car. Adding HP is $50-60 per HP, so adding 100hp is $5k.
If you can install a blower kit yourself (or pay to have a used kit installed), you're looking at almost half of that
Metal man, does it help to drop the lower bellhousing section? There is some room at the slave mounting flange. Maybe a crow’s foot from that way?
Dropping the clutch inspection cover (assuming this is the same as the lower bellhousing section you're referring to) is only useful to see what you're doing. It doesn't provide any additional space for hands/fingers.