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LS6 front/rear seals

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Old Jun 14, 2020 | 06:15 PM
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St. Jude Donor '14
Default LS6 front/rear seals

Looks like both my front and rear seals are leaking - fairly badly. Verified with a long search via mirror, fiber optic cam and flashlight

No, it's not the oil pressure sender - I already replaced it and it's dry and working.
  • Am I correct in thinking that the engine needs to come out to address these two?
  • Are there any "while we're in there" things that I should be thinking about?
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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by billla
Looks like both my front and rear seals are leaking - fairly badly. Verified with a long search via mirror, fiber optic cam and flashlight

No, it's not the oil pressure sender - I already replaced it and it's dry and working.
  • Am I correct in thinking that the engine needs to come out to address these two?
  • Are there any "while we're in there" things that I should be thinking about?
Either the motor or the TT / rear end will have to come out. Having done my TT and clutch myself, I think I would wrestle the engine out so I have the option of putting the engine the stand and going over each gasket, and the top bolts on the rear cover are impossible to get a torque wrench on with the bellhousing loose and the car requiring you to use a box wrench to tighten them to a best guess torque. The front cradle will need to drop down so you can move the motor forward to slide off the input shaft. Either option sucks, but that would me my thought.

As far as "while your in there"......man, that is hard to answer. How much are you willing to spend? So many options! Fundamentally a must, would be a new harmonic balancer and replace idler pulleys and tensioners, then maybe consider water pump / thermostat depending on age and mileage. And for me, a cam / headers is also a must-do, but that is strictly a personal choice.

Last edited by CinciZ06; Jun 15, 2020 at 08:37 AM.
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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by CinciZ06
Fundamentally a must, would be a new harmonic balancer and replace idler pulleys and tensioners, then maybe consider water pump / thermostat depending on age and mileage. And for me, a cam / headers is also a must-do, but that is strictly a personal choice.
All good guidance, thanks. I figured that was the case; there's a guy in Portland that just drops the drivetrain out of the car and does it all...but not sure my wallet can stand that. Might have to stagger this a bit.

160K miles; water pump was done a year or so ago, as was the idler and tensioner. The balancer (and pinning it) seems like smart money.

No headers, but I've thought a bit about a cam.

That's always the problem here; making sure you don't get a "while you're in there" thing going and all the sudden you have an expensive pile of parts. Ask me how I know ;-)



Last edited by billla; Jun 15, 2020 at 03:36 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 04:27 PM
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I would do the drivetrain removal to do the rear seal.. Do an updated torque converter / new clutch while there... That's all mostly labor
Do a better harmonic balancer up front. NO reason to pin it unless you are adding a supercharger.
If you want to go deeper up front, do a timing chain and oil pump.... cam is lot's more as heads have to come off'
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